Rookie with a new project - Page 2

MPDano · MPDano's Garage

It's certain things that make more sense to leave it to the pros and actually cheaper in the short and long run.

man_knee · 12-16-2011, 08:01 AM

Totally agree with you, appreciate the input you guys are feeding me. Pics coming this weekend.

Fischer_76_911S · Fischer_76_911S's Garage

Quote:

Originally Posted by man_knee

Excellent, I'm always down for live music.

For the tank, in the DIY spirit, I see in this thread that acetone can be used and does a pretty nice job. Seems like it'd be cheaper than paying somebody to do it, thoughts?

Hey, that's my thread

I researched the acetone and it did absolutely fantastic. Before anyone knocks it, have they tried it? I would rather my plastic tank stay at home with me under my supervision and care. When you take a rare and expensive PLASTIC tank to a "professional" the actual person who does the work might not be as caring. It's your risk. If you followed my thread, you'd realize saving money was not a motivator, but getting it done right. Whether that was by a pro or myself I divied it out accordingly. A $20 gallon can of acetone did wonders.

My two cents: once you get everything re-installed (tank, rubber lines, fuel filter) and a gallon of fresh gas or two in there, disconnect the fuel return line at the top of the tank and run it into a catch can. Then, jumper the fuel pump relay. Now, by disconnecting the ground strap at the battery (right there in the trunk) you can control the fuel pump AND simultaneously watch what comes out while flushing the lines. I didn't do this and dumped a pint or so of 18+ year old gas straight back into my tank

Good look and most importantly...have FUN!

Thank you,
Bob

man_knee · 12-16-2011, 01:04 PM

Thanks for the input Bob! I will certainly use your two cents when the time comes, appreciate the tip. I've been doing some reading into the acetone as well, and from what I can tell, as long as it's a relatively high quality plastic, acetone is known to work wonders. Considering this is my first turn on this particular dance floor, I'm trying to weigh all available options. I should have time to pull the tank out this weekend, so we'll see what kind of shape it's in and go from there.

Danglerb · 12-16-2011, 01:38 PM

The main reason not use a $20 gallon can of acetone is that "known safe" methods work fine, like simple green. With the fuel tank you may need some mechanical action, sloshing, spraying to get rid of sludgy mud or crusted on stuff loose. A wash and rinse a few times is what I used, and the run off wasn't hazmat.

man_knee · 12-17-2011, 03:24 PM

Here are some pics:

Paint chipping a little

Dash & Pod are cracked up, will need replacing. Steering wheel too. Windows got left open during a rain storm years ago, steering wheel just started crumbling.

Owner before me was a large boy, driver's seat was worn when I got it in 1999, now it def needs replacing, hence the covers.

Nice puddle of ATF

man_knee · 12-17-2011, 03:25 PM

Took a shot in the chin on a snow bank in 2001. Had it rigged back up for a while, but inevitably it came down. Santa may be dropping one off in a week or so

Courtesy of a deer on my 24th birthday.

K&N Air Filter, I read on here those are a big no-no?

There you have it. Take a gander and let me know if you see anything I don't. All in all it's not in terrible shape, just needs some serious TLC.

stepson · 12-17-2011, 03:44 PM

K & N is just a no-no on MAF equipped LH cars (84-86 Euro and 85 and up US engined cars). You should have the barn door type on your L-jet (84 US).

riber.bentsen · riber.bentsen's Garage

Placement of jack-stands.. Use the points discribed in your owners manual.

man_knee · 12-18-2011, 01:24 PM

Need some guidance here. I'm following the WSM instructions to remove the tank to a T. Pulled fuel line from the pump, disconnected return line and wires from the trunk access, removed breather hose from expansion tank, removed grommet and bolt at upper mounting, and removed bolts at the mounting points for the straps. At that point, it instructs that the tank can come out from the bottom. However, it seems there may be one more hose holding it in that I can't quite see. It feels like it's somewhere on top of the tank toward the right rear corner, can't really get a pic of it. Hit me with some knowledge guys, there has to be something I'm missing here.

Mrmerlin · 12-18-2011, 01:36 PM

First you need to put the jackstands on the jack pads use a block of wood on the bottom of the crossmembers while jacking..
For the tank there is a 1 inch diameter hose that runs up along the rear of the filler portion remove this from the top tank vent,
run your hand along the hose to knock off any dirt then feed this hose through the frame rail as you lower the tank be careful so you dont snap off the hose from the main body fitting on the tank

man_knee · 12-18-2011, 01:59 PM

Thanks for the clarification, I see the hose you're talking about on the fuel system diagram. First thing's first, I'll get to moving the jack stands to the proper placement. Again, not a mechanic by a long shot, just a humble 928 owner who needs to pay back this incredible vehicle for taking advantage of it in my youth and then subjecting it to 5 years of garage isolation. When all is said and done, it'll probably owe more to your advice than to my fixing. We'll get there and hopefully we'll both get the opportunity to thank you all.

man_knee · 12-19-2011, 12:47 PM

Was able to get the stands moved to the jack points yesterday, thanks for the heads up there. Unfortunately, we're losing light fast these days so the remainder of the tank pull is going to have to wait until Friday since it's pitch black by the time I get home from work now. I think I'll be learning the true meaning of 'Patience is a virtue' with this new hobby. Anything else in the pics stand out as a burning issue to you guys?

Danglerb · 12-19-2011, 01:27 PM

Seats don't look that bad overall, just take the top of the seat to a decent shop and get the bolster redone for $150 or less. Steering wheel looks terrible, find a better one for $100 or so, or around $300 for nice new Porsche leather.

Get the cover for the jump post and the 14 pin, both are cheap and NEEDED.

Buy a light.

man_knee · 12-19-2011, 02:36 PM

Ha, I didn't think less daylight would fly here. I'll order the cover for the jump post and 14-pin tomorrow. Interior is most likely going to wait until the mechanical kinks are worked out, but I was thinking the same for the seats and wheel.

MPDano · MPDano's Garage

Quote:

Originally Posted by man_knee

Ha, I didn't think less daylight would fly here. I'll order the cover for the jump post and 14-pin tomorrow. Interior is most likely going to wait until the mechanical kinks are worked out, but I was thinking the same for the seats and wheel.

It looks like you know how to prioritize

davetr · davetr's Garage

when you r ready to do ur seats call sabatini in nazereth 610 759 7575, he will take care of you

davetr · davetr's Garage

when i got mine it had been sitting a while th trans was a lil low, i filled it to th correct level, it did leak a lil, like yours, till i drove it a few miles, has not leaked since then

man_knee · 12-20-2011, 06:22 AM

That's great info, thanks! I'll def give that guy a holler for the seats. I'm hoping after a trans fluid swap and a little driving, the leak clears up.

man_knee · 12-21-2011, 09:43 AM

davetr - do you know of any radiator shops around the bethlehem area that will clean a tank? I'm striking out with everyone I call. If they did do it, they don't anymore, and the one guy I spoke to said the only shop he knows of that might still clean tanks was in Shenandoah out past Hazleton, but of course he can't remember the name. Unfortunately with my schedule this week, I won't be able to get the tank all the way out till Friday to get a look in it. If it's not that bad, I can probably do it myself. If it is pretty bad and I can't find a shop, I may just order a used tank from 928intl and catch the tail end of the 1/2 off sale.