Front suspension clunk

[rufrob]

Hello. I read many treads but can't seem to be a definitive answer.
I am having and clunking noise from the front left suspension. My 2002 996 turbo has only 27000km or about 15,000miles. I have checked the suspension many times all the mentioned places, drop links, ball joints, tie rods. The clunking noise is now being felt in the brake pedal.
It sounds like a loose shock or top bearing.

I would rather not remove the front strut. Is there anything else I can check or an easier way to check for this noise?
Steering wheel feels tight but it definitely doesn't feel as direct as my 930. Its a bit squirrely under hard braking, but I attribute that to new rear tyres and rutted roads.
Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

[Jeff Alton]

For the braking issue, have the alignment checked and ensure the rear toe setting is on the high end of the factory spec for road use.

Check sway bar bushings on the front for the clunk.

[rufrob]

Already checked the sway bar bushings. I should get and alignment check but I want to install lowering springs first.


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[PCA7GGR]

Check the bolts that attach the calipers to the strut.

[rufrob]

I will. But the clunking seems unrelated to braking.


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[rufrob]

I lifted the car took off the front wheels and underbody covers. Nothing loose or out of place. Guess it must be the strut mounts. From what I've read they deteriorate with age in as much due to use.


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[Nickshu]

The "tuning fork" suspension arm is the most common clunk source. They are considered a regular wear item and wear out after awhile. On mine I found the clunk was due to a stripped bolt, the forward most front suspension plate bolt that goes into the body. Fixed with a helicoil, all good since.

[dporto]

The "Tuning Fork" (lower control arm) is super easy to check, so start there. If it turns out not to be the problem, the Top mount would be next on my list (Mine were both shot). Unfortunately, they're much more difficult to check/replace. The good news is that once you do them you'll be so happy! I went with (Tarett) mono balls and am very happy I did (in addition to Bildtein B8's, H&R sport springs, H&R adjustable sways & drop-links). Good luck

[kd126500]

I have the same problem let me know the outcome.

[jmitro]

Originally Posted by rufrob

The clunking noise is now being felt in the brake pedal.
It sounds like a loose shock or top bearing.

Originally Posted by rufrob

But the clunking seems unrelated to braking.

so which is it? related or unrelated to braking?

Maybe the rubber insert in the lower control arm is deteriorated, caster arm is clunking when you brake

Originally Posted by dporto

The "Tuning Fork" (lower control arm) is super easy to check, so start there.

Sure you're not referring to the caster arm? I know it's all semanitcs but it can get confusing. From what I've seen the lower control arm is the "wishbone"

[rufrob]

Not related to braking means the noise is not affected by braking. Brakes applied or not the noise occurs. The noise is also a vibration which can be felt on the brake pedal, more on the arm than on the pad, and on the steering column not wheel.
It's being transmitted around the firewall. I haven't had a chance to check the fork. I'll do it this week.


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[rufrob]

Finally got under the car. The fork bolts are tight and no play in the ball joints. I noticed the noise is less when the car is hot. The noise is more noticeable when the car is cold and at first drive. So I did find the left side coolant line touching a hanger around the middle of the car. I stuck a rubber strip into it. No change. So that's not it. I tugged on the coil springs and found the left has more play than the right. So I'll bite the bullet and get the strut mount, when I have the money. I want to install lowering springs and get an alignment at the same time so ¥¥¥¥¥¥¥&


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[rufrob]

Finally did the strut bearing, bump stops and boots. Noise is gone. I thought I had to remove the strut. But it wasn’t necessary. I removed the top nut, unwound the coil spring, pulled the piston down and swapped the parts. Total of less than 1 hour. Impact gun is necessary to achieve this time. Now it’s quiet and handing improved. I adjust the camber a bit and now it tracks nicely. I resisted the temptation to cut the spring.


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[nolan879]

Originally Posted by rufrob

I thought I had to remove the strut. But it wasn’t necessary. I removed the top nut, unwound the coil spring, pulled the piston down and swapped the parts. Total of less than 1 hour.

Did you use a spring compressor, or just a floor jack to lower that corner down and relieve the spring tension? Hoping to tackle replacing these this week, don't want to remove the strut if possible.

[rufrob]

Hi. No spring compressor was used. There is surprisingly little tension when the shock is fully extended.
My clunk came from the inner tie rod.


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[nolan879]

Managed to complete this today without removing the front shocks. I released all of the bolts in the top of the mount, then rotated the spring counterclockwise about 350° from the seated position, then pushed the spring itself towards the centerline of the car so I could use a pry bar to lift the spring over the lip of the lower spring seat. From there I depressed the shock and slid the spring over the top so I could also replace the bump stops.

The 3 camber bolts are 24FTlbs, and the center nut is 59ftlbs.