Another rust combat

[pkabush]

Such an amazing and detailed build. Super good to see you back on it.

[proffighter]

This weekend I proceed with board. Almost done, just the fuse-/relaybox misses (not available instantly). Will be fitted were the protection foil is still there, behind the coil unit. Maybe I make some drillings at the area above connectors, let's see what mood I have

[proffighter]

Yesterday I received the fuse box, so I could finish the board. Looks a bit more clean than before.

[proffighter]

Earlier in this thread I anodized the starter mounting plate and noticed I forgot to leave an area free as the plate is also current earth for starter. So I thought about how to solve this issue. First I tried to shave off the area where the shim/nut is contacting, result: destroyed a HSS Miller. Looks like my anodizing is of good quality

So I made what I do normaly when I have to re-Anodize a part, etching but only the neede area. Therefore I cut some hoses and glued them on the plate to secure that I have only this area in contact with etchant. Throught the bore I sticked a piece of rubber as well. Now I filled some etchant in and waited about 1 minute and flushed the part. Done, layer gone Same I did the area where bolt for plate - starter was fitted. Looks not that good on pic as I made photo before flushing.

Finally checked for resistance: 0.1Ohm which is perfect. Starter refitted and checked from engine case to starter housing: 0.1Ohm as well -> Done

[Bman52882]

Your car has lived a very hard life my friend....... the only real way to properly revive it, would be to strip it down to a complete bar chassis. I mean all the way down to bare metal.

Then properly repair/replace all affected areas, then repaint and then reassemble. However, you probably already know this.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[speednme1]

Originally Posted by Bman52882

Your car has lived a very hard life my friend....... the only real way to properly revive it, would be to strip it down to a complete bar chassis. I mean all the way down to bare metal.

Then properly repair/replace all affected areas, then repaint and then reassemble. However, you probably already know this.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Huh? are you on the right thread?..lol. I think Roland is way ahead of you. You need a few cups of coffee and go through this entire thread, by the end of it..you’ll start taking notes. Roland’s attention to detail is second to none.

[proffighter]

Originally Posted by speednme1

Huh? are you on the right thread?..lol. I think Roland is way ahead of you. You need a few cups of coffee and go through this entire thread, by the end of it..you’ll start taking notes. Roland’s attention to detail is second to none.

Thank you Rey

As I am not a native english speaking person, I was not sure I understand correct here, so I did not respond...

However I do not care about, going on like before (hopefully a bit faster than in the past couple of yeard )

Still looking for the insulation stuff, but in between I am working on the wiring and other things. Update soon

[proffighter]

As I am workin on the wiring, I also removed alternator to make a new harness there as well. So I noticed some little leakage on cylinders to head, #4 the most, but all have some little oil "dust" Sooner or later I have to take care of it, just don't know when.




For this reason I started to make a list of parts I have to order. And of course I will make some "upgrades" when I have to open the engine. First I ordered some ARP bolt kits (Head studs, mine are still the stock ones from 40years ago, crankcase, etc...). Until I continue there, I proceed with wiring. Because I removed all the engine electrics, I took the chance and anodized the Sensor housing and made some bushings out of aluminum for weight saving, anodized as well. I use for all my aluminum parts (with only a few exception when no strength is needed) out of 7075, which is quit strong. About 3-4 times of the home improvement store quality.



Another thing I have on the to do list since a decade is the throttle body. I shortened the body top end low end when I fitted the B6 intercooler to get it under the deck lid, was to high. It worked, but I was never happy with the result on the cooler side, almost no more venturi and o-ring not in a real seat.

First i cleaned in the ultrasonic cleaner (bought a while ago a professional one, way better than those DIY machines). Very nice result:

[proffighter]

I made two rings on the lathe, the lower one below the o-ring and the one on top to make a nice venturi. I made both 1/100mm smaller than body diameter there and shrinked them on. This way they want come loose. The rest of the black peaces I made ten or so years ago (all aluminum), still looking like new.




I am still impressed how nice and clean the body came out of the ultrasonic cleaner. I guess the cleaning agent was not unimportant, a special product for the industry to clean aluminum parts including corrosive protection.

[proffighter]

Disassembly almost done. Lot of things found to do. I won't post yet, because I will go on an not document everything now but will when rebuilt starts. I promise there will be a lot of upgrades and DIY things to show.

[chrisbalich]

Looking forward to it, Roland.
This build has been such an inspiration, I know there are a bunch of us looking forward to its completion.

[smurfbus]

Cross drilling the crank comes to mind from this thread : )

Keep us updated... always fun to see what your doing

[bigwizz]

I am a big fan of POR-15 as I own an Italian(the country where tin worms were born). You must follow the instructions and neutralize the surface before application but I have never seen it fail. My mechanic uses it on all the Italian's he services and swears by it.

[proffighter]

Originally Posted by bigwizz

I am a big fan of POR-15 as I own an Italian(the country where tin worms were born). You must follow the instructions and neutralize the surface before application but I have never seen it fail. My mechanic uses it on all the Italian's he services and swears by it.

You talk about the Throttle body or what do you mean?


PS Hmmm banned for some reason :-)

[chrisbalich]

Originally Posted by proffighter

You talk about the Throttle body or what do you mean?


PS Hmmm banned for some reason :-)

He was a bot or a scammer. Got reported, and then banned, pretty quickly.

[proffighter]

Now everything is apart (to be honest, some little things still not)

Starting to evaluate what has to be replaced, what I like to replace and what else I can/should do at this point, starting that next week.
Another thing will be the availability of some parts, for example I wait since two months for some ARP bolt kits. Some say on onlineshop "available" but when ordered, they aren't

However soon more about. Here what a mess in my hobby room

[proffighter]

[proffighter]

Started with crankshaft bearings. Visual they look not that bad, bud will replace anyway. Some of them have marks I cannot verify what they caused. Only #1 shows already copper (or what's underneath)frontal and oppisite side. More wear visible at intermediate shaft bearings.

[proffighter]

[proffighter]

Regarding crankshaft, I know it has been replaced over 20years /ca. 50'000km ago by a reman part. Try to find out (at the end measurement will show) it it's standard size or not.