Another rust combat

[proffighter]

On bearing #1 there are some marks I don't guess they are results of wear. When checked with nail, they feel like outbreak, no signs around. I think just polish there to soften edges should be enought. Any thoughts/ideas where it come from?

[proffighter]

Cleaning and evaluation process of damages/needed or wanted parts/work almost completed. First I did is camshaft measuring and polishing bearing journals, went out quite nice while still within specs. Will do Plastigauge check when assembly



Still there is an issue with getting parts. Regardless US or Europe, several shops says available, but when ordering, it's not (including our host!) I am a bit dissappointed, thought I can get some bigger movements between christmas and newyears eve, but it seems like it did not can be done...

However, will post step by step as soon there is some worth to show.

[proffighter]

Originally I wanted to start the crankcase assembly up to at least the cylinders during the Christmas holidays but because the case stud kit from ARP is not available anywhere since August when I wanted to buy. I cannot even put together the case halves.

What make me angry is the fact that a couple of shops listed them as stock, but on request they say a couple of weeks, then another few weeks and so on. Others are still telling 10 days while most indicates around March. At ehe and, no one can deliver for the next months...
They are made in the US they say, so I can not really comprehend why it takes so long apart from they us chinese steel...

However I still can do some other things like copy some plugs. While Oil pressure relief valve, Oil pressure regulator valve are 1:1 copies I made a blind hole in the cam housing plugs for weight reasons (no wonder) and finally the plug for the distributor delete. All high strength aluminum and anodized black

[gsmith660]

Hey Roland Chris at Turbokraft has a mount that I bet would save you a few grams even from that beautiful bracket you made great work keep going


And some pics when mounted:

[proffighter]

Originally Posted by gsmith660

Hey Roland Chris at Turbokraft has a mount that I bet would save you a few grams even from that beautiful bracket you made great work keep going


And some pics when mounted:

That's mine, but I guess I know which you mean. To be honest, I doubt it fixes the turbo good enough to avoid some movements. My RarlyL8 Headers are to nice to risk any cracks and a K27 is really heavy.
However thanks for input and kind words
Roland

[gsmith660]

Originally Posted by proffighter

That's mine, but I guess I know which you mean. To be honest, I doubt it fixes the turbo good enough to avoid some movements. My RarlyL8 Headers are to nice to risk any cracks and a K27 is really heavy.
However thanks for input and kind words
Roland

Yes that is your bracket sorry for the misunderstanding Chris's bracket is very simple and easy to install and is basically a bolt and a small bracket but it holds my turbo very securely and is much lighter than the stock bracket

[proffighter]

This one you mean:



Way to weak in my eyes. Not to bash the product, there may be some applications it will work, but regarding Turbo weight, only one bolt at one egde and a maybe 20x2mm metal strap is just not enough in my eyes to hold the turbo strongly. The original and my version are different for that reason. 1st there are 4 bolts more in the center of gravity from Turbo (vs one at the outer edge) and 2nd my (and OE) are about 3mm upright so the load which is mainly up and down is being carried over an area of 100mm or so (don't have the measurements exactly in my mind)

I would love to have a TK bracket to mount to proof what I suggest. Bet the headers are carry more load than the bracket.

[gsmith660]

https://parts.turbokraft.com/collections/exhaust/products/turbocharger-hanger-bracket-k-2x-series-and-t3-turbos

I have the second bracket shown and believe me I thought the same as you but after I installed it I changed my mind it supports the weight well and nothing moves

[proffighter]

I bought a set of new cylinder pistons. I wonder that there are no more groups for height (5 or 6 in a triangle), bore (0-1-2-3) and weight (-- - 0 + ++) as found normally and described in manual but this:





Anyone seen this and know what is what? All I can see ist that all cylinders have an A and all pistons AB. So they are all the same specs and made more precise than those days the manual was printed?

[66cal912]

I imagine you can call up Mahle in North Carolina and ask for clarification.

MAHLE Motorsport can be reached at 1-888-255-1942 Monday - Friday 8am - 5pm EST.

motorsport@mahle.com

or:
MAHLE Industries, Incorporated
23030 MAHLE Drive
Farmington Hills, Michigan 48335 USA

Office hours: 7:30am - 4:00pm EST
Tech support: +1 800 223 9152
Headquarters phone: +1 248 305 8200
Contact:

[proffighter]

Originally Posted by 66cal912

I imagine you can call up Mahle in North Carolina and ask for clarification.

MAHLE Motorsport can be reached at 1-888-255-1942 Monday - Friday 8am - 5pm EST.

motorsport@mahle.com

or:
MAHLE Industries, Incorporated
23030 MAHLE Drive
Farmington Hills, Michigan 48335 USA

Office hours: 7:30am - 4:00pm EST
Tech support: +1 800 223 9152
Headquarters phone: +1 248 305 8200
Contact:

Thank you Ben

I contacted MAHLE in Germany (as I am from Switzerland, no local MAHLE here), but they did not answer... I will try this one now.

If anyone else has some info, you are welcome

[proffighter]

Finally I get some answer from Mahle, short said (for Aftermarket):

-Only 2 groups of Cylinder diameter today, market on Cylinder: A and B

-No more height groups

-3 groups of Piston diameters: A, AB and C

-No more weight groups

-Aftermarktet only Pistons group AB delivered, they fit A and B cylinders

Conclusion: I have all cylinders A and all pistons AB -> Everything is fine

[proffighter]

Last week I started to mount the rods on the crankshaft. Remember (or did'nt I mentioned?) I bought some almost new Carrillo rods for a really reasonable price. The first three rods went without any problems as expected. But Number 4-6 (not cylinder numbers but bearing on crankshaft beginning at flywheel) did not wanted down to the seat, stuck before. After sorting out the possible issues (switch bearing shells, tried old ones etc.) it was clear: Inner diameter was out of spec (to little).

So I inspected the rods more detailed. I found that the surfaces on the 1-3 looks like cross-cut honing, but 4-6 just fine sanded. Seller told me about an engine failure after half an hour or so, but not exactly what happend. So It seems the shells turn and left some material on the rods. I went to an engine builder and he confirmed, looks like that issue, only was astonished the rod did not show any blue color.

However, he is optimistic he can solve this. Let's see...

[proffighter]

Iam still looking for an case stud kit ARP 504-9501

No one seems able to deliver, appointments are rescheduled almost every day. So if anyone here can help me to get them soon (means I received them, not what they announce on the webshop etc.) will gain 50USD via paypal as soon I have them. This offer is valid until the 30.01.2023

Thanks in advance
Roland

[proffighter]

Until I can proceed with the crankshaft I continued on the heads, valvetrain. There will be new bushes and shafts for rocker arms (worn).
Checked bolts etc. and found little axial play of ca. 1-2/10mm at the cups from valve adjustement screws. Is this normal or wear? Guess not but wonder if really worn or from new like this.

[proffighter]

Yesterday I got back my rods. Had to reworked, plane surfaces machined, rebored and honed. Now they fit nicely. Also they have been weight balanced (or how this is called in english, same weight adjusted at the rotating mass).




Mounting by stretch method went easier than I thought.

[proffighter]

Another thing I tried is anodizing the intermediat shaft cover, just to see how good it come out. As it's an alloy with a high magnesium content it's not really possible to colorize and it get's darker through the anodizing process. I like the result and now I am thinking of making the chain house covers as well.

[proffighter]

... it seems the days of lively discussions and exchanges are over. Well, that's the way it is.

That leaves more time for other things

[LJ851]

I don’t always comment but really enjoy this thread. I read all the posts, thank you for sharing.

I think the intermediate shaft cover color looks great. Have you been able to find an ARP case stud kit yet ?

-Lorin

[proffighter]

Originally Posted by LJ851

I don’t always comment but really enjoy this thread. I read all the posts, thank you for sharing.

I think the intermediate shaft cover color looks great. Have you been able to find an ARP case stud kit yet ?

-Lorin

Hi Lorin
At least some are still alive

Thanks, I like the look as well, hope I find time to go on with chain housing covers this weekend...
ARP? No, unfortunately not. Same thing everytime, e-shop says in stock, reply on mail says no... I cannot understand the problem at ARP, since almost a year they are really in trouble with availability, some shops say since over a year. I wonder as it's made in USA, not China. So what's the issue? No more steel in the US?