decklid hinges?

Hmmm does it really looks like? Hinge is correct, BUT it's only one. The left one is stock.
A little help:

It's at the left front fender...

hello,

hinge for the filler flap?

Because of the three bolt holes I thought they could be door hinges but they looked too small. But I don't look at the door hinges on my car very often. :D

TADAhttp://forums.pelicanparts.com/support/smileys/clap.gif

Finally some more to show
 

Finished the camber plates. Color change and DIY bushes to save weight (another 136g) and lift strut position. Furhter I drilled the battery mount

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1377881209.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1377881379.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1377881446.jpg

Wow Roland your machining skills are impressive...can't wait to see your car completed.

ThanksSmileWavy

Me too... But we have to be patient. Not this year.

Amazing work. I was mesmerized. Did you replace hood and rear tail? Someone know the diference in weigh between carbon and fiberglass, For the replaceable parts?
What do you expect the final weight to be?

Thank you:)

Hood is stock but drilled. Rear deck lid as well:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1377947707.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1377947732.jpg

Tail is homemade out of FG/epoxy, check my thread:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/911-930-turbo-super-charging-forum/497946-homemade-whaletail.html

Carbon itself is about 25%percent lighter than FG. Different specs at all, so not comparable only by weight. Same for aramid, even more like steel, very durable, but not easy to work with, mulish stuff, ask me how I know;)

I have no idea how much the car will weight in the end and there is no goal. I just can tell that it was at the beginning of this thread about 1040kg and will be maybe under 1000kg at the and, we will see...

The main determinant of weight with composite parts is the resin volume fraction. If you do a wet layup and don't squeeze much resin out the parts weigh a ton. If you use pre-preg and put it in an autoclave you have almost the minimum amount of resin so the parts are lightest and strongest. Extra resin doesn't gain you any strength. Just make sure you don't have dry fibers.

Hi Roland, any news?

Fantastic thread Roland. I'm amazed of your relentless drilling, machining and anodizing work. You are a very good DIY representative. How can the rest of us send away parts for anodizing now, after reading your thread. Your parts looks beautiful.


In your search for a lighter car, have you seen this site from DP: Innen Look at that ventilation box, reducing the wight from 6500 grams to 300. This must be something for you? There are some other trick parts there as well, but expensive. I talked to DP Motorsports at Techno Classica Essen this year, and they had some really nice light weight builds there. I test sat this, which is really nice (not a turbo though): Sleeper marks 50 years of Porsche 911 - IOL Motoring | IOL.co.za

For those unfamiliar with German, "federleighte elfer" means feather light eleven

Nice find that BOX. We do have MOT requirements for the FAN but that box should work just fine in everyday driving.

I was in vacation in Sardegna until today, so I maybe this week I will make some more progress to show...

Arnljot

Thanks for the compliments!SmileWavy

I've seen this box a while ago, but don't liked it:

First of all, the weight of 300gr is without any blower fan, the stock one is not heavier for sure. The 6500gr is maybe correct with fan and all stock tubing heater regulation etc... I will weight my setup this week to give you an idea of my thoughts and solution. The DP box needs a fan somewhere and if you use one with equal performance, then I doubt any weight saving or improvement at all

Today, I checked the weight of my setup:

Box, fan and all ducting is almost 3200gr. Add a few gramms for some clamps and knob and you'll end-up at 3250gr or so

For Heater unit and overall pic check this:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/911-930-turbo-super-charging-forum/566192-gas-heater-installation.html

I did not weighted the box alone, but without fan it won't be heavier then the 300gr of the DP box. Or even lighter;)

Conclusion:
With the DP box you still need fan, ducting, etc... and therefore I cannot see any improvement

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1380041333.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1380041362.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1380041391.jpg

PS Be sure I will find some weight saving potential here too...

Biggest weight saving ever ;-)
 

I made some backing plates for the Tarett front sway bar out of stainless steel, went out fine, but thought I could be nicer...

So I decided to made some out of high strength aluminum 7075, what I use for most of my homemade parts. Saved another 20gr over the SS ones:D

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1380916739.jpg

BTW Pic does not show really, but of course there are M8 threads in the part as well

So -- when do we start a pool for guesses on this car's final weight? ;-)

I have no idea, but lighter than before I guess:D

However, I do not know, what comes into my mind during the assembly, I tend to think about every part while just mounting. Sometimes it stays, sometimes not.

HAHAHA, BS most of the time: NOThttp://forums.pelicanparts.com/suppo...ys/men_ani.gif

Advanced machining mode on:

I had a bit of rattle when I made those plates due their triangular shape. That's the price for a small lathe. Would be better to cut the edges after, but then I loose more of the nice stuff in the dustbin. For a pro they look horrible I guess, but hey, who cares? Me not.

And every measurement is within 5/100mm (at least at the end;))

950 to 1000 Kg Turbo should be a nice ride. I have been thinking in those terms myself, but going through Rolands thread, I don't know if I have the will power to do it.

It doesn't need that much power but time, much time...

Amost forgot a part to show, this time raw before anodizing. Did not weight, too light;)

Idle screw

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1380922462.jpg

Of course hollow drilled

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1380922488.jpg

Maybe I should stop showing every single part I made, this way the thread will end up in a guiness record. Or what do you guys think?

And that's why I was shocked to find out you had a girl friend! That must be one patient woman!

All kidding aside, I enjoy watching the progress.

That has to be due my lovers quality:D

Seriously, we both have our passions and the fact, that we still not live together, helps to spend some time for. But I guess it would be equal if we share the home once in the future.

lol

Roland, please continue to post pictures of your awesome, home-made parts, as I know that I, along with probably everyone that looks at this thread, love to see your work!

I agree. We want more posts! :)

Nothing to show at the moment guys, but I have found some possible weight saving once more:

As I have no more TB's, I don't need the the toothed end of the control arms anymore and on the back end, there is some material left due the fact that the RSR bushes are shorter. Therefore I will cut-off at the bushes +2mm

What do you think?

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1382616481.jpg

great idea...I would put a plastic or alum cap/plug in the end so road debris does not enter the tubes & rust proof/coat the insides of the tubes too...
looking great... :-)

Had the same thought. Plastic is lighter... and rust protection of course a must

So it's done, cut-away the ends. Saved 210gr each side. I decided not to close with plugs but painted the inside too, this way no humidity can stay

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1382775180.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1382775206.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1382775232.jpg

nice roland...good thinking about possible moisture build up inside tubes and possible rust...I still think a plug w/ a sm center hole in it & a sm semi circle "bite" out of the bottom edge of plug to allow the tube to breath & allow moisture to drip out if it ever has enough in it by the bite you take out of the edge of the plug...just some early morning thoughts of mine..

Tarett improvement next step
 

Made some more aluminum nuts for the sway bar linkages. A few gramms saved here too:)

Further some spacers (black)

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1383949351.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1383949373.jpg

Please don't stop posting your progress. No matter how small.
I never thought of an idle screw as Porsche porn (there's gotta be a joke in there) but those parts are jaw dropping.
Simply amazing work. Keep it up.

+1

Made some more nuts, this time for easier sway bar adjustment (and weight saving of course;) )

... and when I just started making them, I found them from Tarett too for only 16USD each, BUT mine are cheaper:D

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1384384216.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1384384238.jpg

Roland as always great pieces you make .... a little off topic but your pics did wonders for me , almost have the intercooler in place now .Thanks Kozmo

As I plan to mount some front brake ducts, I have fitted some air shields at the hub. This time not selfmade, only drawing was from me. A friend made the CAD and then let lasercut that cheap, it makes no sense to DIY

At least anodizing is homemade;)

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1385070691.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1385070726.jpg

PS Just for your interest: They are aluminum 2mm thick...