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Registered
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: West Coast
Posts: 328
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P201 Engine Adapter - HF Engine Stand Question
Hello,
A separate longer thread will follow regarding a semi ambitious project begun in earnest last weekend. In the mean time I have an immediate problem and could use some assistance in coming up with a solution. The engine from my 930 currently sits in my courtyard separated from the mother ship which rests in my garage. This is very much related to the other thread I plan to create this later weekend. I need to mount my engine to the new Harbor Freight 2000 lb engine stand I purchased and assembled today with the help of my dad. The 2000 lb version seemed the better option as it wasn't much more expensive and the collapsible legs allow for better storage. I have purchased the P201 engine adapter yolk from Pelican. The yolk shaft fits within the adapter plate/cylinder sleeve on the stand itself but the hole used to lock it in place does not line up properly. If I remove the adapter plate, the shaft from the yolk is too loose when mated to the engine stand cylinder so that won't work. I feel like I need a new 'sleeve' to replace the existing adapter/sleeve with new holes drilled out. Is this normal or am I overthinking things? My German supervisor in the background offering little help. Final photo looks fine until I upload it then it goes crooked. ![]() ![]() ![]()
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'79 930 Minerva Blue/Cork '98 993 Cabriolet Glacier White/Midnight Blue Fire - '91 C2 Targa Black/Tan |
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Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2014
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Funny, I just bought the 750 pound stand today, and an engine yoke off eBay. I can't currently address your issue- probably not for ten days or so. But I will be following your thread.
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Registered
Join Date: Jan 2015
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If you or a friend has a welder do this. Drill out the hole in the stand sleeve and the adapter sleeve so a 1/2 bolt will fit thru it. Take a 1/2" nut and weld it on top of the hole in the stand sleeve. Then take a 1/2 Gr. 8 bolt and grind the end to a flat point. Thread it into the nut and you can lock the engine into any position you want to by tightening it against the yoke shaft.
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Registered User
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i just drilled new holes through the yolk. It's takes a good bit and some patience, but it's a piece o cake. Good luck with the build!
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87 930 - Black - 3.4L/964 cams/K29/Powerhaus IC/6AL-2/B&B dual exhaust/MTX-L/235-315 Toyo R888/18" Kinesis wheels/Big Red brakes/LSD 10 997.2 Cab - Speed Yellow 83 SC Cab - Guards Red [SOLD] 17 NSX - Nouvelle Blue |
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3 restos WIP = psycho
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: North of Exit 17
Posts: 7,665
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I cut a plastic milk carton and wrapped the p201 until the plastic took up the slack.
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Registered
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I would think you use one or the other.
Mount studs thru the adapter plate and leave p yoke over in the corner or use p yoke and have it loose until you put the engine or tranny on it. |
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beancounter
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Weehawken, NJ
Posts: 3,593
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Overthinking it.
The P201 doesn't need to fit tightly into the stand. When you have 400lbs on there you won't notice any slack.
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Jacob Current: 1983 911 GT4 Race Car / 1999 Spec Miata / 2000 MB SL500 / 1998 MB E300TD / 1998 BMW R1100RT / 2016 KTM Duke 690 Past: 2009 997 Turbo Cab / 1979 930 |
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Banned
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Rockwall, Texas
Posts: 8,559
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Jake is spot on; while there is nothing wrong with the anti-slack (different than Paul's anti-sack situation) measures other people mentioned (including Kenik's milk carton condom solution), there is no need to be concerned with the not-tight fit (Norm can relate).
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Registered
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: S. Florida
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When I worked at a Porsche restoration facility there were around 10 motor stands and yokes around. Original grey German ones.
I never saw any of them shimmed welded or whatever. Sometimes someone stuck a screwdriver into the hole to keep the motor from rotating while working on it. |
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Registered
Join Date: Mar 2006
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Quote:
Quote:
And I have a least two motors currently on regular engine yokes w/ spacers and shims. They work too.
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RGruppe #180 So many cars.. so little time!! |
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Brian I agree with the slack comment. Take a look at putting the black piece in the backside (yeah, here it comes...), so the flat plate is facing away from the motor. Align so p201 hole aligns with hole on the red part. Drill a new hole in the black tube only...
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Infraredcalvin - AKA Pat '76 Turbo Carrera #311 - Factory LSD, Sport Seats ‘71 914-6 GT 3.4L twin plug track car '75 914 GT clone project '71 914 track car, fresh 2165 FAT motor (for sale soon) |
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So, I've punted for now while i consider using the milk carton condom approach, the black piece in the backside trick with some drilling or quite possibly the 'hooker' method where there is lots of slack in the hole.
We were also considering shimming with wood ![]() The gap in our case is not inconsequential. It's a full half inch when the P201 rests inside the mount without the black adapter that came with the engine stand. It seems like quite an angle if I don't at least shim. Today we broke my friends hydraulic lift in an attempt to lift the motor onto the stand. At this point we moved the motor from its pallet to the legs of the engine stand with a moving blanket to aid in sliding the motor and a 2x4 to provide some extra support. Other than the fact that I cannot rotate and get to the bottom of the motor it works quite well for mobility. The motor with all the dressings and exhaust attached is one heavy mother. She don't move easily. I'm thinking about getting a hole drilled into the black sleeve to match the P201. I would need a matching hole in the engine stand cylinder. Or, I will shim the existing hole if I can't find anyone to drill the holes for me. I'm going to rent a proper engine hoist cherry picker type to aid in getting the motor on the stand. I may just disassemble a large portion of the motor to lighten the load and then see if I can get some help to muscle it into place. This will depend on if I get things drilled out or if I shim. If shimming it will be better to have the hoist to hold the motor in place while the shims are installed. ![]()
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'79 930 Minerva Blue/Cork '98 993 Cabriolet Glacier White/Midnight Blue Fire - '91 C2 Targa Black/Tan Last edited by bleachii; 11-28-2015 at 09:06 PM.. |
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Forced Induction Junkie
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+1 on the poly-milk bottle approach. It makes rotation so-o-o-o much easier.
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Dave '85 930 Factory Special Wishes Flachbau Werk I Zuffenhausen 3.3l/330BHP Engine with Sonderwunsch Cams, FabSpeed Headers, Kokeln IC, Twin Plugged Electromotive Crankfire, Tial Wastegate(0.8 Bar), K27 Hybrid Turbo, Ruf Twin-tip Muffler, Fikse FM-5's 8&10x17, 8:41 R&P |
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beancounter
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Weehawken, NJ
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Quote:
![]() ![]() Good luck on your project. That's a very clean looking '79 you have there.
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Jacob Current: 1983 911 GT4 Race Car / 1999 Spec Miata / 2000 MB SL500 / 1998 MB E300TD / 1998 BMW R1100RT / 2016 KTM Duke 690 Past: 2009 997 Turbo Cab / 1979 930 |
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Registered
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Yes Jacob I believe the diameter is larger than the model you are using. And here I thought the larger version would be better. Maybe I should have used the smaller one.
22k on the ODO but as we all know they don't like sitting around. Appreciate everyones input here.
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'79 930 Minerva Blue/Cork '98 993 Cabriolet Glacier White/Midnight Blue Fire - '91 C2 Targa Black/Tan |
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Quote:
I bought the same engine stand and have the same problem as you.... what did you do to fix your issue??
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Did you seriously buy a tool from Harbor Freight and not expect to have to modify it or correct a design or manufacturing problem?
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Ingenieur
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The heavier duty Harbor Freight engine stand fits the 5 arm yoke that VW Alley sells on EBay. It goes for about $150, shipped. I am using it right now. Might be easier to return the P201 and buy that.
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