964 3.6 Engine Top End

[axl911]

Okay...some more updates....

BEFORE you install the head on top of the cylinders, INSTALL the knock bridge sensor first. The cylinders needed to be aligned properly. Otherwise, you can't bolt down the 3 bolts of the knock sensor bridge.



Installation and assembly of the cylinder heads and cam housing is the same as other 911s. When installing the cam themselves, don't install the power stering pump assembly yet.

The next step is to install the timing chain housing. The 964 is different because of the integrated oil feeds. Clean and blow these out when you clean the housing.

The timing chain housing mating surfaces with the case, tensioner, and cover are pretty rough. So I lightly sanded the surfaces where a gasket goes with 400 grit sand paper to get it smoother. Hopefully, this will fix the oil leak 964s are famous for.

The gasket is metal. And I will use Curil-T on the mating surfaces to insure no leak.



Below are the parts for the timing chain sprocket. It's the same as other 911s.



I put a light coat of Curit-T on the various surfaces to prevent leaks.

[axl911]

Next step step is to the dreaded cam timing. It's not so hard. Below are the condensed down steps to time the left and right side.

Cam timing
To set timing for Cylinder 1.
1. Rotate the pulley so Z1 mark is lined up with the case parting line.
2. Install cylinder 1 intake rocker.
3. Install some sort of tensioner device on the chain. I used a generic steering wheel puller.
4. Make sure both cams have the dots pointed straight UP. Draw a line from the dot through the center of the cam will make it easier to see the dot is pointed straight up.
5. Put the pin into the cam sprocket where the holes line up. Do this for both sides. You can put the cam sprocket bolt in or not. Leaving it out makes it easier to see how the dot moves.
6. Adjust the cylinder #1 intake valve clearance to .1mm like you normally do in valve adjustment.
7. Mount your dial gauge on cylinder #1 intake. And set it to zero value.
8. Rotate the crank pulley clockwise almost 360 degrees. As you approach the Z1 again you will notice the dial begin to move. Only rotate CLOCKWISE!!!!
9. Continue to rotate clockwise until the gauge moved 1.26mm or .05 inch. STOP.
10. Is the Z1 mark lined up with the case parting line? If not, use a small screw to remove the pin on the left side cam. Rotate the crank pulley until the Z1 mark is lined up with the case parting line.
11. Now put the pin back into the cam sprocket where the holes line up.
12. Double check by rotating the crank pulley 720 degrees. By the time the Z1 comes around for the second time, when the Z1 is lined up with the crank pulley, your dial gauge should have moved 1.26mm or .05 inch.
13. You are done with cylinder #1. Don’t move anything.
14. If it takes more than 360 degrees to get the dial gauge to move 1.26mm, then you either don’t have the cam dot pointed straight up at the beginning or you did not adjust your cylinder 1 valve clearance properly.

Now to set timing for Cylinder 4.
1. After completing the last step in setting timing for cylinder 1, the dot on the right cam should be pointed straight DOWN.
2. Install cylinder 4 intake rocker.
3. Install some sort of tensioner device on the chain. I used a generic steering wheel puller.
4. Adjust the cylinder 4 intake valve clearance to .1mm like you normally do in valve adjustment.
5. Mount your dial gauge on cylinder 4 intake. And set it to zero value.
6. Rotate the crank pulley clockwise almost 360 degrees. As you approach the Z1 again you will notice the dial begin to move.
7. Continue to rotate clockwise until the gauge moved 1.26mm or .05 inch. STOP.
8. Is the Z1 mark lined up with the case parting line? If not, use a small screw to remove the pin on the RIGHT side cam. Rotate the crank pulley until the Z1 mark is lined up with the case parting line.
9. Put the pin back into the cam sprocket where the holes line up.
10. Double check by rotating the crank pulley 720 degrees. By the time the Z1 comes around for the second time, when the Z1 is lined up with the crank pulley, your dial gauge should have moved 1.26mm or .05 inch.
11. You are done!!!
12. If it takes more than 360 degrees to get the dial gauge to move 1.26mm, then you either don’t have the cam dot pointed straight up at the beginning or you did not adjust your cylinder 4 valve properly.

Here is a pic of the tensioner. Not mine, but I used the same tool.



Here is my setup for the cam timing. Note the stock tensioner. This pic was taken after everything was timed and installed.



When installing the rocker and rocker shaft, always install the 5mm bolt facing the flywheen end so you can put a torque wrench on it. Don't ever tighten it from the 8mm end or you will strip the 8mm nut.



BTW, don't forget to install the cylinder head temperature sensor on cylinder #3.

When you have the cams timed and all rockers installed, install the timing chain tensioner. I sanded the mating surfaces lightly with 400 grit sandpaper to smooth it out. I also put a light coat Curil-T on both sides of the gasket to insure no leak.



The tensioner themselves are specific for left and right side. In addtion, install them with the hole pointing toward the cap, not the chain ramp. Do this wroing and the tensioner won't work because it won't be pressurized with oil.



Don't forget the oil line bridge between the cam housing and timing chain housing. Replace the o-ring on this.

[axl911]

Okay....after timing the cam, installing all the rockers, adjusting the valves, and instaling the tenstioner I found this:

When rotating the crank pulley, I noticed that the timing chain gets tensed (compressing the tensioner) on top and having so much slack on the bottom that I can stick a pen cap between the chain and the ramp. See pic.



This occurs at 60, 300, and 540 degrees for the left side. The right side is the same way except at 180, 420, and 660 degrees of rotation.

I thought I messed up something along the way. But some board members pointed out that this is caused by the valve spring acting on the cam and causing the sprocket to rotate a bit forward. This causes the tensed and slack portion in the chain. Looking at the cam itself I can see this. I also used a socket to wedge the tensioner and rotate the crank pulley. No tense or slack. Hopefully, this is normal behavior. If you see me several weeks from now crying about having to rebuild again, you can guess what happenned.

[ChrisBennet]

Originally posted by axl911

When installing the rocker and rocker shaft, always install the 5mm bolt facing the flywheen end so you can put a torque wrench on it. Don't ever tighten it from the 8mm end or you will strip the 8mm nut.

The factory put the shaft bolts in so they could be removed without removing the engine tin. As you point out, you can't torque them through the rocker shaft holes with the bolts in the factory position. Realistically though, how often are you going to need to remove a rocker shaft with the motor in the car?
-Chris

[Jeff Alton]

"Realistically though, how often are you going to need to remove a rocker shaft with the motor in the car?"

My thoughts excactly!!

Jeff

[dd74]

Very impressive work and thread. Thank you!

[axl911]

Okay, it's been a while since my last update.

Power Steering

Before you close put the timing chain housing cover back on, you need to install the power steering pump. First, you must install the engine tin behind the power steering pump assembly. Well, because it sits between the engine block and the power steering pump.



There are two seals you should change on the power steering assembly.





You should also install a new power steering belt. I didn't do mine since it looked brand new. If it breaks soon, I'll know how to replace it.

When you tighen the bolt of the power steering spocket to the cam shaft, use the cam holder tool to prevent the cam from rotating. Now you know why I said to not to put the timing chain housing cover back on yet.

Finally, putting everything back in.



Distributor

Next is to install the distributor. Change out the seal on the distributor shaft.

[img
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploads5/P10400051118338849.jpg[/img]

Rotate your engine to cylinder 1 TDC. Be careful. The Z1 notch on the crank pulley indicates both cyl 4 and cyl 1 TDC. Rotate the rotor on the distributor so it it slightly left of the cyl 1 notch. And insert the distributor into the engine block.



As you insert the distributor, the gear will mesh and the rotor will move slightly to the right and should be centered on the notch in its final position.

With the cam timing set and the timing + valve covers back, the long block is complete. It's time to reinstall everything.

There are several things you must install in order. Here are some I found out the hard way.

First, reinstall the front (flywheel side) and side engine tin. Don't put the rear (crank pulley side) tin, AC moun or engine mount yet.

Second, install the BOTTOM/EXHAUST ignition wires since it runs under the AC bracket.



Third, install the engine belt sensor and the AC mount. I dremeled the sides on my AC mount so it can be removed without having to remove the crank pulley. I tightened down the crank pulley to its final torque value.

[axl911]

You can now reinstall the engine mounting bar, rear engine tin, and muffler mount.

Next, install the engine shroud. Then the engine wiring harness.



Next, install the fuel injector and fuel injector rail assembly. I sent my injectors to WitchHunter to be rebuilt for $12 each. That is a bargain when even the little seals cost $4 each. They changed seals and flow balanced the injectors. Turnaround was quick. I highly recommend them.



Next would be to reinstall the cruise control assembly, oil pressure sender, engine breather cover, etc.



Next is to install the entire intake assembly. I cleaned mine with WD-40 and brake cleaner before reinstalling.



The intake assembly can broken down into 3 major components by undoing these 4 band clamps.



Make sure you clean and check the operations of the travel the throttle flap and the flap for the secondary air tube.

When you reassemble the 3 major components, don't tighten down the band clamps down too much. You would need wiggle room to place the intake assembly to the engine block.

The engine is now pretty complete. Time to reinstall the transmission and put the whole thing back in the car.

---
anthony

[johnsjmc]

I have reviewed your excellent article several times. I am considering a top end teardown of a similar (1990) 964 engine to upgrade the rod bolts. Can you share with us the total cost of your topend work?

[stevepaa]

Originally posted by ChrisBennet
The factory put the shaft bolts in so they could be removed without removing the engine tin. As you point out, you can't torque them through the rocker shaft holes with the bolts in the factory position. Realistically though, how often are you going to need to remove a rocker shaft with the motor in the car?
-Chris

You can torque them in factory position. You just need a short hex head socket to do it.

I hope to finish mine this week. 9 months so far

[axl911]

John, here is the rough breakdown of the cost.

400 - rebuilt kits for top & bottom
(which includes both front and rear main seals)
200 - engine stand and adapter
100 - cam tool
100 - another torque wrench (you need 3)
700 - head rebuid
150 - powercoating engine tin
80 - atv jack
100 - z-block and dial gauge
150 - misc tools (pullers, ring compressor, tensioning tool, etc.)
200 - cleaning chemicals, carb cleaner, etc.
100 - oil & filter
200 - early 964 head gasket, viton thru bolt o-rings, etc.
-----
2, 380 for a DIY 964 top-end

Steve,
I tried my hex head socked, and it didn't fit. I tried a hex wrench, it stripped the nut.

[axl911]

Add another $100 for the cleaning the injectors.

[Don Settergren]

Hey axl911,

Your costs are nearly the same as my rebuild. I needed a few more parts and my machining costs were closer to $1000 as they did some of the clean-up and measured all the tolerances. However, I saved a few bucks on tools as I already had them or borrowed them.

Nice work!

[stevepaa]

I am finishing my top end, but I went down all the way.
Machining costs were $1800-head work including resurfacing and rod reconditioning and cam regrinds.
Powder coating was $390. Cad plating was $300. Tools cost $1500.

New parts was $5000. new bearings, piston rings, ARP rod bolts, valve springs, timing chains, timing sprockets, complete rocker assemblies, timing chain guide rails, engine insulation, fasteners for exhaust and transmission.

roughly $9k.


I used a cutoff saw to cut my 3/8 drive hex head socket driver to length and I have a small head torque wrench that fits in the cavity easily.


Been over 8 months since I started and I have a few fasteners that I do not know where they go. I'll post a picture and see if you can tell me. thanks

[stevepaa]

Any idea where these two step washers go? I had them bagged with the screws for the top air shield.

[Don Settergren]

I think they are the two bolts that hold the power steering bracket to the top of the cylinder head. The stepped one goes in the slotted hole.

[stevepaa]

Yes! Thanks. They protect the top air shield from direct pressure of the bracket.

[stevepaa]

Next item. Anyone know the part number for the clamp that holds the wiring harness. Or the size? Or where in PET it might be found?

[axl911]

Okay....rebuild wrap up and post rebuild update.

The re-install went smoothly. I powder coated the engine tin, fan housing, etc. for about $125. After spending 30 min just to clean one piece of engine, the $125 is TOTALLY worth it.

I also replaced the engine sound insulation pad. I went cheap here and bought a water heater insulation, the kind with the silver foil on one side. It cost $20. Cut to shape, taped the edges with silver metallic tape and glued it in. It worked fairly well and kept the engine heat out of the car really well.

Put the engine back in...hooked everthing back up...filled the oil tank with 9 quarts of oill.

I then turned the engine by hand may times to make sure it turned smoothly.

I then pulled the fuel pump and coil wire, cranked the engine to build up oil pressure. I took only about 5 seconds until I saw the oil pressure gauge moved. I eventually settled on the 2nd mark. GREAT!!!! At first, there were chain noises, but all that went away when the oil pressure built up. I then inspected under the car and around the engine for leaks. None...Woohoo!!!

Decided to wait until next morning to start the car since it's 2AM now. Besides, letting the car sit overnight would let me see if any oil leak shows up.

Next day....still no leak. I then hooked the fuel pump and coil backup. Open the garrage door, put a fire extinguisher next to the car and inside the car. Turn the key to 'on' to let the fuel pump operate. Walked around the car to make sure there is no leak.

Then finally, crank the engine. I got oil pressure almost immediately. Cranked the car for 5 seconds...but it seemed forever. Cranked it again....and on the 4th try....the engine roared to life....ran a bit but died when I let the foot of the gas.

Started the car again...and it ran without stalling....HUGE relief!!!!

I immediately pulled the car out of the garrage. Propped the gas pedal to get 2500 rpm. Jumped out of the car with fire extinguisher in hand to check for oil leaks, fuel leaks, or FIRE! Found none....the car didn't even smoke.

I ran the car at 2000 to 2500 for 10 min. Then jacked the car up to 3000 rpm for another five. Check the car continuously for leaks. No leak. The engine ran great.

One thing I also did is to jumper the oil cooler fan to run constantly on HIGH. You can do this in a 964/993. You need to do this since the engine will get HOT.

Idle is a bit flaky. The trottle cable needed adjustment.

After running the car for 15 min at 2000-3000 rpm. I shut the car down and changed the oil. Everything looked good.

Later that night, I fired the car up again and drove around the apartment complex to check drive drain, brake, etc. Then took it out onto the street.

I immediately floored it. OMG... this thing now has power!!! Bring it back home and check again for leaks, etc. None. Adjusted the throttle cable again.

Took the car on a longer break in drive. Spanked the car hard! Drove in 1st and 2nd gear only. Full throttle upto 4000. Then release the gas to do engine braking. I looked silly accelerating and decellerating in the middle of the street. But the car is running great! Lots of torque. The E36 M3 is nothing compared to the 3.6.

[axl911]

The rings seemed to seat immediately. Great power and torque, and burned no oil. Changed the oil after the first drive.

Drive it really hard for the next 500 miles and kept the rev below 4000. Changed the oil again and do valve adjustment. I eventually increased the max rev to 5000 then to redline.

The car has tons of power. But I am beginning to see some leaks. #$#@$#! I have leaks on what seemed to be the thru bolts, cam shaft at the power steering pump, and at the front main seal (flywheel end). They are not bad leaks, just get the bottom of the engine wet and leaving about 1 (that's right, only one) drop a week on the ground. These will be hard to fix, so I guess I have to live /w it.

Othewise, it's 4000 miles since the rebuild. The car still gets it bottom wet, but not leaking onto the ground. Still runs great and does not smoke. Lot of power and torque. I am still trying to keep track, but estimates the car uses 1 quart about 4000 miles.

Overall, I am happy /w the way the car performed. Not sure what I can do with the leaks without taking the engine apart again.

Overall, the rebuild process is a very educational and highly enjoyable experience. I feel that I know the car inside and out now. Working on the car doesn't scare me anymore. Wayne's book got me through the rebulid. I would also like to thanks to those (esp. Chris Bennet) who answered my questions during the rebuild.

We'll see how the next several thousand miles go.

---
anthony