head studs

[JeremyD]

Let's see - stock steel studs are $18 per, washer + bolt times 24 gets you into the $550 range (per pelican)- supertech are $650 - so for $100 you wouldn't upgrade to get a stud that's guaranteed for life?

[Jeff Alton]

For me I think I am going with the factory steel studs.I pay about 60% of that for them and the top row are steel already and looked good when I had the motor apart last spring.... I also have a good selection of new nuts and washers. However, the lure of doing it "right" migh just make me buy the supertechs or ARP. Everything else is being upgraded, so why not this stuff too?

Jeff

[Mark McClure]

At what point is the standard steel not enough.....? Since these things are held tight with no movement (apparently) The only thing that can have an impact on their effectiveness is the CR that you are using, ie the amount of outward force that is placed on them.

If the case threads are ok.....what is the relative safe breaking/scretching force relative to CR.

Cheers

Mark.....

[ChrisBennet]

I agree with Jeff. Pelican sells the 993 steel head stud for $9.28 and since the top row of studs are usually fine, you're looking at a cost of only $112.
Porsche part # 993.101.172.02, Pelican part # OEM-99310117202. If you put the Porsche part # in the grey "Search Pelican Parts" box at the top left of this page and you can find it that way. Using the Pelican part # doesn't seem to work though.
-Chris

[sammyg2]

I replaced my dilavar lower studs with steel studs from pelican. I paid under $10 each for them, they are the steel 993 studs (not fully threaded).
So I paid under $120 for them. If I had replaced all 24 (why in the world would I do that?) it would have cost me less than $240.
Compare that to $650 for the supertech studs that are IMO all bling and no zing on anything but a full race engine, well you get my point.
$410 extra spent on something that is not necessary is not necessary

[JeremyD]

Well, I live 40 feet from the ocean so corrosion is pretty important to me. Steel rusts - all it takes is a nick on the epoxy coating on a steel stud in my neck of the woods. So bling for something that nobody will see? methinks not.

[JeremyD]

Oh and I based my decision on pricing that Pelican currently has on their website:

[Jeff Alton]

I am not saying they are a bad idea! Quite the oppositte infact, I just didn't think that I need them. I am currently paying 11.50cdn for a epoxy coated factory steel stud so you can see why I am leaning that way...

Cheers, Jeff

[p911sc]

I am currently considering the Supertech Studs for my 1983 911 SC rebuild and was reading old posts.

I'm stumped though, why does supertec recommend blue loctite instead of the red? If I read the directions posted above, the studs are bottomed out and then backed off a half turn, so it shouldn't have anything to do with the bottoming??
Rick

[greg bradbury]

Red loctite is for studs and blue is for the nuts. The rational is that if you put red on the stud and blue on the nut when you come to the time to disassemble the nut will come off without the stud backing out. Since the nut on the head bolt isn't loctited the stud can go in with blue or red and there shouldn't be a problem with the stud backing out.
That's the way I see it anyway.
Regards,
Greg

[patkeefe]

I'm thinking of putting in Henry's studs on my 3.0 SC turbo engine. I currently have on order the later model all threaded studs (on a recommendation). Are these all threads steel studs, or are they a Dilivar derivative (I suspect they are)? If they are, I'm definitely going with the Supertec stuff. Since I'll be running a bit of boost, I'd like to keep everything together best I can. I also think the ARP or Raceware stuff is really expensive, and likely a bit of overkill on an engine that may never develop 275 HP.
Pat

[Determined]

I recently replaced mine in my 3.2L project with ARP's, I bottomed them out then backed them off 1/4 turn. I used red loctite after all, for removal in the future I'll just use heat. I measured the heights and they were nearly dead-on at 135 mm. I even took some side-by-side pictures comparing to standard steel studs...take a look below:

Regards,

Alex

[Henry Schmidt]

Nice pictures
The pictures of the ARP studs clearly show that the threads on the nut end are not fine thread like the ad on Pelican and other places state.
A fine thread stud is clearly a better design and ARP has tried to capitalize on the Supertec design without actually using it. ARP studs also use a remarkably similar material to Supertec studs after we sent them a sample to quote.
When ARP was confronted with these discrepancies they deny the advertising errors are their responsibility and claimed they chose the materials independent of our sample.
One thing is for sure, Supertec is the only Porsche head stud kit that offers this superior design, a life time warranty and a quality that is well worth the price.
BTW: installed stud length only has meaning when an allen style head stud is used. It should also be noted that cylinder height, spigot height and head thickness will all effect the true stud length. The book fails to mention this fact.

Ad copy from Pelican parts catalog.

ARP Cylinder Head Stud Kits
The ARP Custom Age 625+................................ studs, these Porsche 911/914-6/930 studs have rolled threads, fine threads at the head end of the stud for more accurate torquing, and include a 12-pt hardware kit, complete with nuts and washers, and ARP's special torquing lube.

SUPERTEC HEAD STUDS , THE FINEST STUDS ON THE MARKET

[p911sc]

Henry,
What is the specification on the fine thread end. M?? x ??
Rick

[Henry Schmidt]

Supertec studs have a longer 10x1.5 mm thread at the case end and a longer 10x1.25 mm thread at the nut end.
These longer threads make the stud very suitable for custom built engines that use non standard strokes. When building longer stroke or longer rod engine special stud lengths are desirable. Supertec studs offer this longer length and superior fit on stock engines.
The 12 point nuts offer a fitment for twin plug application that stock Porsche head nuts do not. When using stock head nuts and studs with twin plug there is a interference that must be remedied. Some people use a 6 point nut as a remedy.
No such interference exists with our stud & nut combination.