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By cutting corners you mean doing a top end vs. splitting the case? Right? That would likely be ok.

The guys here can corroborate your measurments are within spec. Have you picked who is rebuilding your heads?

Thought about having the hydraulic oil lines and fuel lines rebuilt?

Goodluck.

Regards,

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Old 03-24-2008, 01:38 PM
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Bernard, I was thinking I would not have to have the heads rebuilt.

I plan on just replacing the bottom head studs, and put it back together with new seals.

Also new fuel line and oil lines.

Is this just wishful thinking?
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Old 03-24-2008, 01:46 PM
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My first suggestion would be valve guides but if you're only using 1 qt/2,500 miles I'm not so sure it's worth it. As mentioned previously, there are a ton of little things you can replace with the engine out.
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Old 03-25-2008, 11:30 AM
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One step up two back!

I made some more progress yesterday, but also made a few more problems.


I dropped the woodruff key in the hole, I asked on the tec. forum and it can be fished out.




The heads look a bit worse than I was expecting. It looks like there is oil on the exhaust side so maybe I should have the head worked.
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Old 04-11-2008, 01:02 PM
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Peppy - Just want to say thanks for a great thread so far. Please continue to post pics as you make progress. I'll be in your shoes in the coming months, so the thread will help me out.
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Old 04-11-2008, 01:44 PM
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A few more pics from yesterday.



I soaked the heat exchanger nuts with PB Blaster for a week and used a torch to heat them up and still broke four studs. The barrel nuts were so rusted that the allen head sockets would just spin. I had to use vise grips on them and had pretty good luck. There was one of the barrel nuts that I could not get to so I cut it off with a sawzall.
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Old 04-11-2008, 02:02 PM
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I have seen a lot worse heads, whats the sealing surfaces look like?
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Old 04-11-2008, 04:56 PM
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Peppy, from the pics and the mileage, you might want to have your heads done, although mine looked worse than yours (pics of my exhaust ports before are on here in another thread). Your head rebuilder would also make quick work of the broken exhaust studs.

With your heads re-worked, the cylinder head studs fixed and the engine cleaned up and re-sealed, you should be able to enjoy the car for many miles before you have to go back in there again. It is, however, your car and your money and time.

Brian
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Old 04-11-2008, 04:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cgarr View Post
I have seen a lot worse heads, whats the sealing surfaces look like?


The pictures are not that great and I have not looked at them very closely.
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Old 04-11-2008, 05:23 PM
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I stopped by the shop today and took a few more pictures, and tried my luck at getting the woodruff key. I had no luck, but the chain ramps are still in and blocks a lot of the view.

If the cams look ok can I just leave them in their housings?

This rebuild thing is going to take a long time, my shop is almost an hours drive from my house.








My shop is really dirty compared to the ones I have seen on PP.
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Old 04-12-2008, 12:32 PM
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I am starting to regret trying this.

I have learned a few tips.
1. Vise grips are the best tool I own.
2. When trying to remove the P&C's in one piece you can not pull the cylinder up to high or the rings pop out.
3. You can not push the rings back in with a screw driver.


What is this rubber substance for, an oil leak maybe.



Does the chain ribbing in the housing matter?





I think this is a crack between two head stud holes.

My shop is not as clean as everyone else's.
Sorry about the photos, my camera is a POS, but it was free.
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Old 04-16-2008, 07:43 AM
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The rubber substance behind the oil cooler is for a oil leak. I found it in the Bentley manual.

I have now split the case, the rear oil seal hung it up, but after removal it came right apart.
I never found the woodruff key, maybe it fell out and I never saw it. I can not take that chance so the engine comes completely apart.
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Old 04-18-2008, 06:33 AM
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I called the machine shop today, and it is not looking as bad as I thought.
$250-$300 to put in valve guides and grind the valves + $ for any parts that are needed.
The shop is also going to measure the crank, rods, and P&Cs. I have alusil and am probably going to try and use them with new rings. I know that this is a gamble.

I have one piston that I broke the oil ring on. What are the thoughts of just replacing this one ring and leaving the other P&Cs alone?
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Old 04-21-2008, 07:58 AM
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If the shop is going to measure everything, the P&Cs will be separated, right?
I would rering them all. It only makes sense to not rering if the rings are left undisturbed in the cylinders. I would say, it will be even more of a gamble trying to reseat old rings than new rings. Measure ring grooves, have your cylinders cleaned, slightly honed with the sunnen paste and scotch brite pad. It will remain a gamble, but with lot higher chances of success than reusing old rings.

Aurel
Old 04-21-2008, 11:31 AM
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No woodruf key

I split the case yesterday and did not find the woodruff key. Oh well it is apart now.




Are cracks like this normal?


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Old 04-23-2008, 06:53 AM
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Lookie what I did.





I forgot to take the pulley off.
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Old 04-23-2008, 12:32 PM
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Do I dare ask what a hammer is doing in the visinity of the engine build? haha
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Old 04-23-2008, 05:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Aurel View Post
I would rering them all. It only makes sense to not rering if the rings are left undisturbed in the cylinders. I would say, it will be even more of a gamble trying to reseat old rings than new rings. Measure ring grooves, have your cylinders cleaned, slightly honed with the sunnen paste and scotch brite pad. It will remain a gamble, but with lot higher chances of success than reusing old rings.

Aurel
Aurel,
I am in the middle of a rebuild of my 86 930 motor. I stripped it to fix some oil leaks and stiff clutch and will do a few other things while I'm in there.
I was not planning to replace my rings as ring grooves and barrels measure up OK, however your comment regarding replacement of rings has me wondering if I should do this. What is the problem with reusing old rings - do they tend to leak when re-used?
Bill
Old 04-26-2008, 05:30 AM
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If the ring gaps are in specs, they can be reused according to this thread:

reusing rings?

If the heads are being rebuilt, it makes sense to put new rings in. If the motor had good compression, and is open for other reasons, then I would leave the old rings.

Aurel
Old 04-26-2008, 02:59 PM
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Update

I took the heads, crank, rods, and P&C's to the machine shop yesterday. I am having the heads redone and everything else measured.

I took them to T. Hoff in Raleigh.

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Old 05-29-2008, 07:00 AM
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