The Beautiful Puzzle: 1987 3.3L 930 EFI Build - Page 20

Ken911 · 10-11-2011, 04:12 PM

OK well i learned something else today thats a good thing

CaptainCalf · 10-11-2011, 05:38 PM

the M8x1.25 time-sert kit came in

CaptainCalf · 10-12-2011, 07:37 AM

I found this in an old thread somewhere, but I thought it was cool so here ya go!
.

CaptainCalf · 10-12-2011, 08:07 AM

I'm running duel TiAL 38mm MV-S wastegates with spring combination from 0.3 Bar up to 1.7 Bar

I think I'll stick with the grey/gold combo for 1 Bar!

350HP930 · 10-12-2011, 08:57 AM

Time certs are the best way to go when it comes to thread repair.

After years of working my way though college as a motorcycle mechanic and machinist I've probally installed thousands of their inserts and never had a problem with one. Much stronger and more reliable than heli-coil repairs too.

If I were you I'd concider going with a base boost around 0.75 bar. Gives your engine management software more ways to deal with rising temps and knock than just having to pull back on timing. The boost control solenoid will take care of upping the boost as close to the danger zone as you desire, lol.

Speaking of knock sensing, you probably need to start looking at what sensors are needed and installing some kind of mounting apparatus under the shroud close to the base of the cylinders before you wrap up assembling everything on the upper side of the motor.

CaptainCalf · 10-12-2011, 05:28 PM

action shots from exh stud hole repair

CaptainCalf · 10-14-2011, 05:00 AM

I changed out the springs last night from 1 Bar down to 0.7 Bar so I can sneak up on 500hp

1 Bar

0.7 Bar

tuck boot in before closing

350HP930 · 10-14-2011, 05:25 AM

Wow, so glad to see that Tial is still making their products in the US. Nice to know that not all manufacturers have taken the treasonous route of sending their factories overseas so they can make a few extra bucks for their CEO and shareholders.

CaptainCalf · 10-15-2011, 01:52 PM

the new front oil cooler hard lines came in today and they are finned & sweet

CaptainCalf · 10-15-2011, 07:02 PM

Caught a smoker King today just off the beach near Anna Maria Island

350HP930 · 10-15-2011, 07:36 PM

Damn Rick, that thing looks big enough to feed your family for a few days, lol.

CaptainCalf · 10-17-2011, 06:16 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 350HP930

Damn Rick, that thing looks big enough to feed your family for a few days, lol.

Yep, he was a 50 minute fight and weighed in at 24lbs around 41-1/2"...smoked some for fish dip and made enough for the whole neighborhood...LOL

CaptainCalf · 10-17-2011, 03:31 PM

now where did I put that turbo

CaptainCalf · 10-19-2011, 09:09 AM

I was going to try the Borg, but after months of waiting I switched over to the Garrett GT3582R twin scoll T4 1.06 A/R ported cold side shroud and after seeing it glad I did...this is a nice unit and hope I don't destroy it too quickly

350HP930 · 10-19-2011, 09:42 AM

Great choice, but then again I'm a little biased, I remember the GT35 series being on my short list as well.

VitoV · 10-19-2011, 10:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 350HP930

Wow, so glad to see that Tial is still making their products in the US. Nice to know that not all manufacturers have taken the treasonous route of sending their factories overseas so they can make a few extra bucks for their CEO and shareholders.

You must be driving one of those rare American-made Porsches.

Go get 'em, Captain America!

Anyway +1 on the Time-Serts. I don't know if they are treasonous or not, but they sure work.

350HP930 · 10-19-2011, 12:37 PM

Wow Vito, I didn't realize Porsche was a US company.

I do my best to buy only US made products, but if I have to buy foriegn I prefer to get my products from other first world nations that have real environmental regs and pay their employees well.

I don't see a location listed for Vito, but if he lives here in the US I suspect he's one of the many who doesn't care where his widgets come from or how a company operates its business, as long as he's got his . . .

Who knows, maybe he got his knickers in a bunch while reading my post because he operates one of those american companies that stuffed a few extra bucks in his pocket by laying off their american workers and sending the jobs overseas?

VitoV · 06:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 350HP930

Wow Vito, I didn't realize Porsche was a US company.

That was my point.

If you're going to make a big deal about buying American, then buy American.

If a company makes goods in one country and is headquartered in the same country, that's ok. But if HQ is in another country, that's "treason." So Porsche, for example, is treasonous (to Germans) because they make cars in Finland and Slovakia? Don't think too hard about it, it will spoil your day.

I don't know that anyone owes me a job because I'm an American. I guess you feel differently. Good luck to you!

(I'm exiting the thread now, sorry for the digression everyone. Love those Time-Serts!)
-----------------------
Edit: Oh yeah, I was going to put in some actual on-topic info here too! Some will tell you that you should always have a machine shop do your thread inserts for you, particularly when it comes to things like cylinder head studs. (Wayne, the Great Chief Pelican himself, said this is a thread or two a while back.) This is because thread insert jobs, done badly, can result in threaded holes that are no longer perpendicular to the surface of the material. In the case of case studs, this causes the dreaded "porcupine effect" that many Porsche (VW, etc) shops have seen.

However there are easy ways for the DIY mechanic to avoid this problem. One is knowing where perpendicularity is important (case studs) and where it is not, or not very (exhaust studs maybe). In the latter case, a good eye and a steady hand may get you through. But where plumb is important, there are two easy ways to ensure you get it right. One would be a guide block, a thick piece of harder material through which a hole is drilled just wide enough for the drill or tap to pass through. Put the guide block over the hole you are trying to drill/tap, and it will ensure you go straight in. Another, even better approach, at least for items that you have out on the bench, would be an apparatus known as a hand tapper. This is a frame-- picture a blocky capital C-- in which the piece to be drilled/tapped is set. The top of the C contains a quill that can be turned by hand, and that holds the tap. Google it if this is not clear. In a pinch, a drill press can double as a hand tapper (make sure it's not plugged in while you're tapping...), or you can fashion your own if you have some metalworking ability.

I have used both of these methods, and recently constructed a small hand tapper to use in Time-Serting cases. It worked great! The last case I did took no time at all, and the studs were absolutely spot-on. Sure beats paying a machine shop.

willtel · 10-21-2011, 08:24 AM

Fantastic work CaptainCalf. I'm learning a lot and can't wait to see yours finished. Have you decided what EFI system you will be using yet?

CaptainCalf · 10-21-2011, 10:17 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by willtel

Fantastic work CaptainCalf. I'm learning a lot and can't wait to see yours finished. Have you decided what EFI system you will be using yet?

Thanks!

Yes, I have a local tuner who sells & supports DTA Fast systems, so I'll be going with the DTA S80: DTAfast S 80 PRO ECU