Gordo's 3.2L Engine Rebuild - Ready to Reassemble

[Gordo2]

Snow day - so I inched closer on my build.

I detailed the problems I had with getting the woodruff keys seated in the camshaft and also addressed a tight fitting camshaft sprocket in this thread:

Difficulty Installing Camshaft Woodruff Key and Sprockets - 3.2L

That aside - there were some minor victories today. The timing chain housings went on nicely:

I followed Henry Schmidt's recommendation to apply a light coat of Loctite 574 on the housing gaskets (I applied to both sides):

This was about as light as I could get it - a very small bead that I spread around with the Loctite bottle nozzle:



I was a bit surprised by how much squeezed out when I torqued the bolts:




Tough day, with a few challenges, but hey - if was easy everyone would do it.

Thanks for the comments, tips and encouragement folks.

Gordo

[jackmech]

I like using an 'acid brush' to remove excess sealant. The brush leaves tiny ridges of sealant the spread perfectly. I try to shoot for basically no squish out.

[Gordo2]

Originally Posted by jackmech

I like using an 'acid brush' to remove excess sealant. The brush leaves tiny ridges of sealant the spread perfectly. I try to shoot for basically no squish out.

Thanks for the tip - I'll give it a go for the rest of the gaskets.

Gordo

[TT Oversteer]

Thanks for sharing your build and for the great pictures. Just curious about your choice of pistons. Your calculated compression ratio of 9.16:1 is less than the stock US compression of 9.5:1 and the Euro 10.5:1. Those look like some serious valve pockets. Did you choose these pistons to compliment high lift cams for use with those carbs I saw in an earlier photo? Planning on running pump gas on single plug? I built a 3.0 years ago with 46mm PMO carbs and Solex grind cams. I had to cut valve relief pockets in the stock CIS pistons which gave me something less that the stock US 911SC compression ratio of 8.5:1. That engine ran great on pump gas with single plug; always cool and never pinging. Good luck with the build!

[Gordo2]

Originally Posted by TT Oversteer

...curious about your choice of pistons. Your calculated compression ratio of 9.16:1 is less than the stock US compression of 9.5:1 and the Euro 10.5:1. ... to compliment high lift cams for use with those carbs ... running pump gas on single plug?

TT - you pretty much nailed it in your question / responses.

I started planning my build based on a few principles:

- I wanted to improve my lower RPM torque, and
- I wanted an engine that was simple to set up and maintain

Cam considerations

Initially researched cams as I believe they define an engine's performance. Everything I found indicated that the stock pistons limit cam options. Looked at the S and others.

Spoke with John Dougherty who recommended his GT2-102 profile. Researched the profile and found Haycait911 (Don) used it and had the kind of results I wanted: 3.0 dyno day - a pleasant surprise I was sold...

Pistons considerations

Never considered machining my stock pistons - I don't know if that would have been an option for the GT2-102s. Interesting potential option, but I never found much info on it.

The cams drove me to the JE's with 9.5:1 being recognized as max CR on premium pump without dual plug. Dual plug went against my simple principle. As such the 9.5:1 it was.

Fuel Considerations

Carbs - back to the simplicity principle and plain cool factor. Picked up the PMO 46's.

Ignition Considerations

Single plug, but I am going a bit techie here - XDi system. Actually a relatively simple system.

The CR Disappointment

The calculated CR kind of floored me.

Totally unexpected - I was measuring out of concern that my heads might push me higher than 9.5:1 based on the machine work. Assumed they started life near 90cc's...

Out of curiosity, I ran the numbers on the JE 10.5:1's to see if they would have worked - comes out to 10:1, a bit high for pump/single plug.

I do still want to confirm my cheap burette is accurate though, since I can't find any info confirming normal 3.2L head volumes.

Sorry, long winded way to say - you guessed it.

Gordo

[cmonref]

Gordo,

Your para under Cam Considerations that starts with "Spoke with John Dougherty... " contains a URL that comes up with TTOverSteer's thread reply that you were responding to. I was hoping to see more information about your discussions with Haycait.

Really enjoying your threads -- ALL of 'em. Keep it up. And good luck.

Brian

[Gordo2]

Originally Posted by Brian K. Haggard

Gordo,

Your para under Cam Considerations that starts with "Spoke with John Dougherty... " contains a URL that comes up with TTOverSteer's thread reply that you were responding to. I was hoping to see more information about your discussions with Haycait.

Really enjoying your threads -- ALL of 'em. Keep it up. And good luck.

Brian

Thanks for the point out & comments- I fixed the link, or so I thought. Hmm... something odd's going on with links.

If you advanced search the engine rebuild forum for "pleasant" in the title - you should pull up the thread I was referring to. It includes a dyno sheet on an engine that Don did that had the GT2-102 and other parts similar to mine.

Gordo

[Gordo2]

I finally got around to timing the camshafts this weekend.

Nothing really new here, but I did try a few ideas I found in my research to try to make the job a little easier.

Irwin 12" Micro-Grip Clamps Work Great as Chain Tensioners

For starters, I used 2 Irwin Micro-Grip Clamps (Lowes) to hold the chain tensioner sprockets / tension the timing chains. I started with a big vice grip C-clamp, but found the Irwin clamps worked better - the rubber ends allow it to stay in place better than the vice grip, and you don't have to worry about roughing up the surface of the tensioner arm:






Razor Blade Z1 / TDC Pointer Trick Works Great

I also liked the tip to lightly tap a razor blade between the case halves to provide a precise & consistent pointer to line up the Z1 / TDC mark.

I confirmed the Z-1 mark on the pulley was in fact dead on the TDC before I started timing.




Digital Metric Dial Gauge / Indicator Makes Timing a No-Brainer

I bought the cheap Harbor Freight Digital Dial Gauge ($29 - coupon discount). The Z-block that I bought included a dial gauge extension that didn't quite fit the threads on the dial gauge - I wrapped it in some plumbers tape and it threaded tight enough to work with.

I read Wayne's Engine Rebuild book and loads of threads on cam timing and it seemed a the gauge was a cheap way to avoid the headaches and potential for error associated with converting inches to millimeters and counting the number of times a dial gauge spins... The HF gauge worked great:




Rotating the Camshaft to Adjust Timing / Lift

I kind of followed Wayne's "high lift camshaft timing method."

-Started with both cams - dots facing up.
-Spun the crankshaft 360 deg and stopped at Z-1
-Removed camshaft bolt, washer and pin and rotated the camshaft to the specified lift (4mm for GT2-102 cams).

I purchased a long threaded bolt to try to insert & lock into the end of the camshafts to allow me to rotate the camshaft to the desired lift, but it didn't really work. I couldn't figure out a way to lock the bolt & nut without spinning the camshaft.

I ended up using a small punch, inserted into the sprocket pin hole, to leverage against the chain sprocket and timing sprocket teeth which allowed me to rotate the camshaft exactly where I wanted it:



As pointed out in other threads - I found the camshaft needed to rotate counter-clockwise to attain my settings, hence the bolt method didn't work (it would loosen and back out of the camshaft threads).

One last note, John Daugherty recommends setting the camshaft timing using zero valve clearance - and provided a quick response to my E-mail when I asked to confirm the zero valve lash (thanks again John)

Altogether not too bad of a job - my cams are timed and I was able to get both #1 and #4 pretty close to 3.94mm, just slightly off John's recommended 4mm.

Gordo

[Gordo2]

Had a good friend, fellow NoVA Pelican-head COLB stop by yesterday for some Porsche talk, a few beers and some wrench turning.

Started in wrapping up the rocker shaft installations. Previous owner had installed RSR O-rings on all but 1 of the rocker shafts . No worries, I needed another Pelican Parts order to replace the rocker shaft bolt that I chewed up when I disassembled:



Once the last rocker shaft was in place and adjusted, the external components started to go pretty fast.

The 360 update:

[COLB]

That is one gorgeous motor.

I made it home before the real snow -- just a little spit that didn't even require the wipers. Awesome drive around the back side of Quantico -- worth the trip!

Let me know when you are ready to install!

I'll try to bring the wife so I can do proper justice to the homebrew….

[cabmandone]

Originally Posted by COLB

That is one gorgeous motor.

I made it home before the real snow -- just a little spit that didn't even require the wipers. Awesome drive around the back side of Quantico -- worth the trip!

Let me know when you are ready to install!

I'll try to bring the wife so I can do proper justice to the homebrew….

You'll get the chance to meet me if you come to help install. As for the homebrew, won't be much around unless my brother does some SERIOUS planning ahead. I get thirsty when I'm "helping"

Nice looking engine bro. It's coming together nicely. Keep up the good work.

[COLB]

Originally Posted by cabmando

You'll get the chance to meet me if you come to help install. As for the homebrew, won't be much around unless my brother does some SERIOUS planning ahead. I get thirsty when I'm "helping"

Nice looking engine bro. It's coming together nicely. Keep up the good work.

Look forward to it. Gordo should consider this fair warning, and lay in the necessary provisions.

Love the Cab. You and Gordo got a great deal on that car. The profile pic looks nice.

[Gordo2]

For continuity - a link to my efforts to mate up my PMO carbs and connect the throttle linkage:

PMO 46mm Carburetor Installation on 3.2L

Out with the Old...

The 3.2L engine is done; just need a few small parts off of the 3.0L (heater backdate tin etc.). As such, it's time to drop the old engine.

Nothing new to cover that hasn't already been addressed elsewhere. As such, I'm prepared for the 4 bolt drop tomorrow:





Getting closer.

Gordo

[snbush67]

Great looking engine!

I read through your thread and noticed that the picture you posted above looks like the plexi glass is not seated/sealed in the recess where the head and cylinder meet, it appears that one edge of the glass is over the edge of the recess and that space is in between. That could account for the additional space you measured.

[Gordo2]

Originally Posted by snbush67

Great looking engine! ...the picture you posted above looks like the plexi glass is not seated/sealed in the recess where the head and cylinder meet, it appears that one edge of the glass is over the edge of the recess and that space is in between. That could account for the additional space you measured.

Thanks snbush67 - hopefully it will run as good as it looks

Appreciate the thought on the heads / CC finding but don't think that was it - the plexiglass fit in the recess quite nicely and I'm not sure I would have gotten a seal otherwise.

I still want to confirm the accuracy of my burette but haven't yet.

Gordo

[snbush67]

I bought my burette at a scientific equipment supply store. I had similar results as you, with my 3.0 heads. I wasn't getting exactly 90, I was getting 89-90-91. I don't think it's an issue with the burette. I just went with 90 for my measurements, pretty sure my stock heads hadn't been machined.

I removed the throttle plate bolts and filled the holes in the shroud with epoxy cleans up that area a bit, also the wrinkle finish would look really good on the shroud as well.

The great thing about your engine is its simplicity and the ability to dial it in without worrying about detonation. As well the lower compression should add to the longevity of the motor.

[Gordo2]

Dropped the engine and started removing the parts I want to keep for the heater backdate. One more trip to the powder coaters...

The face off - if the new 3.2L lasts and remains as strong as the old faithful 3.0L, I will be a happy man for many years.




Almost sad to see the 3.0L go - its been a rock solid engine.


For snbush67 - agree, the couple of lower tenths in the CR provides a bit more wiggle room for varying fuel quality, temps and ignition settings. The biggest issue I had is I did the measurements so I would know exactly what the CR was - meanwhile the odd volume has me second guessing...

Gordo

[snbush67]

Even if you got it wrong you CR won't be over 9.8. Your good to go, it's gonna be a beast!

Make sure you read up on running the engine in,

Double check your CV bolts
Turn the engine without fuel to get oil pressure before you start it.
Start and run it in at 2000 rpms for 20 minutes
Check for leaks, etc. it will probably sound a bit rough, smoke etc.
Drain the oil and put some more cheap oil in it
Tune it the best you can and then go drive the dog snot out of it for a couple of hours.
Downshift, long pulls up long hills in the wrong gear, full out pulls through each gear from 1000 rpms to 5000.
Check your CV bolts again
Then drain the oil while it's hot and add another load of crappy oil.
After 500 miles drain and add some good oil, I like Amsoil 20-50.

[Gordo2]

Somewhat sidetracked taking on some necessities and some nice to do's.

Return Fuel Line Blockage

I found that my return fuel line had a stoppage/was plugged.

I had the line temporarily pinched off so I could remove the engine bay fuel lines. Meanwhile I forgot that I had clamps hanging down - backed my car down my ramps and the clamp on the return line fell off - major panic until I realized that nothing was coming out

I had a half tank of fuel and felt a strange sense of happiness to find the line was plugged - there would have been no quick way to stop the fuel from flowing all over the garage once the car was lowered from the ramps.

I took the fuel level sending unit off and siphoned the tank dry.



Removed the return line at the bottom of the tank and hit it with 100psi compressed air (spay nozzel with a rubber tip) - no more blockage...


Cleaned up the Engine Bay

The engine bay had 30 years of crud that had to go. I backed the wire harness out and tied it off at the swing arm. Moved the car outside (and knocked my return fuel line clamp off in the process...) - scrubbed with degreaser and hit it with the pressure sprayer:

The engine bay is now ready for some jewelry:




Cleaning the Oil Tank and Hard Oil Lines

With so much detail put into cleaning up the rebuilt engine - I couldn't bring myself to connecting it to an oil tank and lines that still probably have a bunch of old crude in them. I'm also going to be installing a Carrera front oil cooler - so why not remove the lines?

The oil tank was a little painful to remove - required removal of the rear quarter panel bellows / valence.

I hit the oil line fittings with Kroil a few days before I went at them - broke free using a large crescent wrench.




Removed the hard oil lines, thermostat and trombone oil cooler as a single unit ( a good tip I found in my research)



Tomorrow, I'm going to flush them out the best I can with some mineral spirits and then hit them with the pressure sprayer and compressed air.

At some point the engine will go back in - hopefully I will still have some spring driving weather when it does...

Fun stuff.

Gordo

[snbush67]

Originally Posted by Gordo2

Removed the return line at the bottom of the tank and hit it with 100psi compressed air (spay nozzel with a rubber tip) - no more blockage...

Did any debris come out? A kinked line will do that and then return to its kinked shape later. It might be a good idea to change the lines, they are old.