Gordo's 3.2L Engine Rebuild - Ready to Reassemble

[Gordo2]

Bought the Billy Boat (B&B) oil line and installed it today: Anyone have a solution tank to cooler line with B&B Headers?

Should be ready to dump 10 quarts of non-detergent oil in the tank tomorrow, crank for a bit and then see if it fires off.

Gordo

[JJ 911SC]

Originally Posted by Gordo2

.. crank for a bit and then see if it fires off.

Gordo

as in crank a bit without the DFU plug in to see the oil pressure build up and then fires her up.

I'm sure that is what you mean but having just received a Supercharger that some run without oil in the reservoir... and know a friend with a the $10,000 paper towel story, just want to make sure.

[sus911]

What happened here, who pulled the plug?

[Gordo2]

Originally Posted by sus911

What happened here, who pulled the plug?

Build was complete - moved onto stuff like starting:

Gordo's 3.2L Engine Rebuild - It's Alive

PMO carb tuning:

Gordo's PMO Carb Tuning

And driving

Gordo

[sus911]

Good on you mate. Really enjoyed your doco and I'm sure it will come in handy with my upcoming maiden engine drop.

[11BC2]

Originally Posted by Gordo2

Tonight I installed the rods on the crankshaft.

Here's the measurements I took:



Gordo

That’s interesting it took that little torque to get to that bolt stretch value.
On my ARP rod bolts, using their lubricant, 45 foot pounds got me to about .006” of bolt stretch

[PeteKz]

I'm also surprised that the torque for rods 1 and 5 was that much lower than the others for the same stretch. I would have tightened and loosened them a couple times, with the ARP-supplied lubricant to make sure I didn't get a mis-measurement.

[kamaro]

Originally Posted by PeteKz

I'm also surprised that the torque for rods 1 and 5 was that much lower than the others for the same stretch. I would have tightened and loosened them a couple times, with the ARP-supplied lubricant to make sure I didn't get a mis-measurement.

One thing that I have noticed when using ARP rod bolts/studs, you need to torque/untorque them multiple times before you tighten them for the final. I think I read somewhere in a ARP documentation they call that cycle burnish or work-harden the threads. During my last build (3.4 turbo) I have noticed a couple of them needed to be cycled 4 or 5 times before I got a good stretch. Also I have noticed after testing a few stretch gauges that the only consistent and accurate one is the ARP gauge. the worst one was from Lunati, values were all over the place.

[Gordo2]

Few years later, still roaring.

All good recommendations - ultimately a matter of having reasonably good tools and a sound approach.

Thanks for bringing this back to life,

Gordo

[mikedsilva]

Genuine question and observation here:
With ARP rod bolts, how does everyone else keep track of their starting lengths?

I usually measure all 12 ,and then try to pair them up so they are matching lengths. I have seen variances within a set of bolts by up to 5 or 6 thou..

Usually I can get 4 or 5 pair that are the same as each other, so when tightening them, I can easily keep track of how much each bolt has been stretched.. but there are usually 1 or 2 pairs that are a few thou different from each other.. I mark on the rod which is "0" and the other is "=3" or "=2" etc..

Wondering if there is a better way to do it?

[Gordo2]

Hey gents - I addressed ARP stretch stuff on a separate thread discussion on stretch gauges (pro/con).

https://forums.pelicanparts.com/911-engine-rebuilding-forum/789996-summit-racing-rod-bolt-stretch-gauge-review.html

Originally Posted by mikedsilva

...With ARP rod bolts, how does everyone else keep track of their starting lengths?

I usually measure all 12 ,and then try to pair them up so they are matching lengths. I have seen variances within a set of bolts by up to 5 or 6 thou..

Usually I can get 4 or 5 pair that are the same as each other, so when tightening them, I can easily keep track of how much each bolt has been stretched.. but there are usually 1 or 2 pairs that are a few thou different from each other.. I mark on the rod which is "0" and the other is "=3" or "=2" etc..

Wondering if there is a better way to do it?

Here's my thoughts from my build:

"I used a control bolt (point) as ZERO point" - which I understood as - one rod bolt was placed in the stretch gauge; the gauge was zero'd and then you measured the amount that each rod bolt stretched (as you torqued them) as compared to your original rod bolt. In other words, you used one bolt as a standard and based the stretch length on this one bolt.

Not saying this is wrong; just confirming your process and basis for how you determined the amount of stretch per rod bolt.

If I'm understanding correctly, my issue with this method was that I found the original rod bolts have slightly different lengths (as compared with both micrometer and when placed in my stretch gauge). As such each connecting rod bolt needed to be initially zero'd on the stretch gauge and then torqued/stretched to the ARP recommended spec."

Looking back, I'm not even sure I know what I meant.

[mikedsilva]

Originally Posted by Gordo2

Hey gents - I addressed ARP stretch stuff on a separate thread discussion on stretch gauges (pro/con).

https://forums.pelicanparts.com/911-engine-rebuilding-forum/789996-summit-racing-rod-bolt-stretch-gauge-review.html



Here's my thoughts from my build:

"I used a control bolt (point) as ZERO point" - which I understood as - one rod bolt was placed in the stretch gauge; the gauge was zero'd and then you measured the amount that each rod bolt stretched (as you torqued them) as compared to your original rod bolt. In other words, you used one bolt as a standard and based the stretch length on this one bolt.

Not saying this is wrong; just confirming your process and basis for how you determined the amount of stretch per rod bolt.

If I'm understanding correctly, my issue with this method was that I found the original rod bolts have slightly different lengths (as compared with both micrometer and when placed in my stretch gauge). As such each connecting rod bolt needed to be initially zero'd on the stretch gauge and then torqued/stretched to the ARP recommended spec."

Looking back, I'm not even sure I know what I meant.

Yeah.. they are NOT all the same length....