Gordo's 3.2L Engine Rebuild - Ready to Reassemble

[Gordo2]

Originally Posted by snbush67

Did any debris come out? A kinked line will do that and then return to its kinked shape later. It might be a good idea to change the lines, they are old.

I don't think it was kinked, it sat "open" for a week without a drip. The line to the tank kind of lightly popped as I hit it with air - then had no back-pressure, just air entering the tank.

Meanwhile, the tank looked really good - nice and clean. No surprise there though, I had it out when I installed my front adjustable sway bar a few years ago.

I considered replacing the tunnel lines, but think I will hold off - my OCD tendencies could turn that one into a few more "while I'm at it" projects

And I really want to get the car back on the road...

Thanks again, Gordo

[Gordo2]

Ok,

I researched and somewhat expected this before I started - but for whatever reason, I thought the hard oil line nut was coming loose, so I kept turning it loose instead of cutting a slot in it and chiseling it off.

Of 4 lines connected to the thermostat, this one had clearly bonded to the threads (one of the hard lines)... The first 3 lines separated with no issues (hence my continuing to turn thinking it was loosening).



I'm going to try to repair it with the "thermostat saver" here on Pelican - but the limited info I found on this doesn't sound too promising.

Gordo

[911 tweaks]

this happens to many...dont beat yourself up...that is why this fix kit is available...the kit works 50/50...JMHO from experience, when I have used the kit and it did not leak, the next time the hose had to come off for what ever reason, u will have to replace the thermo then as u will have no threads left and/or ability to reattach that hose there again = the adapter u use in my experiences does not like to be disturbed which is what happens when u remove the hose from this new fitting...it is what it is as they say.....happy easter everyone...

[timmy2]

I tried the kit, didn't work for me. Bought a new thermostat.
Boyt911sc (Tony) probably has a good used one for a fair price.


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[irobertson]

I did exactly the same thing. 3 came off without incident, the fourth stripped. I found a second hand thermostat in the classifieds.

[Gordo2]

Once the thermostat saver part arrives - I'm going to try to aluminum weld it to the body of the thermostat.

Will post as a separate thread and link it back to this one once I'm done.

Gordo

[Gordo2]

I haven't been making much progress lately - a bit sidetracked, but crawling along.

Oil Tank Refresh

I cleaned out the oil tank with mineral spirits, then soaked it in the deep sink with TSP. I also hit the outside of the tank with 120 grit and sprayed it with truck bed liner. The tank is cleaned up and installed.

Before:


After:


My oil level sending unit had a bunch of crud on it as well - cleaned it with carb cleaner, a toothbrush and Q-tips.

I also put a new rubber seal on the oil level sending unit (same as fuel tank seal - didn't like the idea of cork...) and re-glued the oil fill/filter rubber grommet.

Oil Lines Clean Up

Scrubbed 30 years of crud off the outside of the lines a with scotch-bright pad.

To clean the old oil out of the lines - I capped off an end, added mineral spirits and shook around. Followed this with a good flush of water until clean.

Thermostat Repair

I also attempted to repair my thermostat by welding Pelican's "thermostat saver" onto the body of the thermostat.

Separate thread addressing this effort: Oil Thermostat Repair (Attempt)

Horn Relocation for Carrera Oil Cooler

I remounted my horns to make room for the Carrera oil cooler I'm mounting in the fender well.

A link to that goat-rope: SC Horn Relocation for Carrera Oil Cooler Installation

Fuel Line & Filter Configuration for PMO Carbs

I'm now in the process of figuring out my fuel line setup for the PMO carbs: AN-6 Fuel Line Plan for CIS to PMO Carb Conversion

More fun.

Time ticks on, and spring has sprung - must install soon...

Gordo

[doswald]

Beautiful job on the oil tank, Gordo. Which bedliner product did you use?

dho

[irobertson]

Nice job on the tank Dan,

FWIW, this is what I did to mine.
I striped it, then cleaned it out. After trying acetone (which didn't cut it) a reputable guy suggested Varsol. That cut right through the decades old oil film and left me with a tank that still had the varsol film inside. I have some degreaser that I got from POR-15 for prepping before paint called Marine Clean. It is water based, and a few sloshes with 6 ounces of that and a half tank of hot water gave me a squeaky clean tank inside. Then I painted the outside with POR-15.

On the oil lines, I sanded mine clean with 220 grit, then with 320, then clear coated them. For the inside, I sloshed varsol back and forth a few times until it poured out clean, then ran a wire through and used that to pull the appropriate sized shop towel through (like a gun cleaner) soaked with brake cleaner. Then did one final rinse with soap and water to flush out any bits of the shop towel that might have been left behind.

I too removed the big gasket. I found that when I tried to install the new one on the tank, I just couldn't get a handle on exactly where it needed to be located. Since the location is pretty much dictated by the filter opening and the tank placement, I opted for not glueing it in place. I just left it free floating so I could fit it properly when I put the tank back in.

[JFairman]

Nice job on the oil tank. Bedliner paint will probably hold up against dirt flying off the right rear longer than black engine enamel.

I cleaned mine out with gasoline or mineral spirits (can't remember which) shaking it all around in there and then filled it up with hot water and tide detergent and shook that around for a while around 6 years ago.
Then rinsed it out with a garden hose in the different openings for a while to get the Tide out.

Then hooked up a shop vac hose connected to the air outlet side of the shop vac to one of the openings on the oil tank and let air blow through it for an hour or so to get it completely dry inside.

Then I taped off all the openings and hose connections and sprayed it with several coats of black engine enamel. It's holding up good.

[Gordo2]

Originally Posted by doswald

Beautiful job on the oil tank, Gordo. Which bedliner product did you use?

dho

I used this stuff from Duplicolor:Duplicolor Truck Bed Coating, Black, 16.5 oz. Aerosol TR250: Purchase the best Truckbed Coating at Advance Auto Parts

Used because it was locally available at Advanced Auto Parts - and more importantly, because I had half can sitting in my garage.

It held up well on a previous project - I sprayed it in the footwell area before installing a dead pedal, and it has taken a beating well, so I figured I would give it a shot on the oil tank.

Like any other sort of paint - the outcome is highly dependent on the prep work.

Good luck,

Gordo

[Gordo2]

A minor update (the snail's pace continues due to too much research into engine wiring harness options ).

I spent about 2 hours tonight trying to figure out the cleanest / most organized way to route my Clewett spark plug wires to the Electromotive XDi Coil packs that are mounted on the Clewett Coil Mounting Platform.

Here's a few shots showing what I came up with:



The spark plug wire clamps came in really handy, allowing me to organize the wires in an orderly, compact manner. I used these clamps: https://www.made4uproducts.com/cart/proddetail.php?prod=50-656



Options ranged from:
- Reversing the coil packs so that the contracts were forward / faced the alternator
- Slanting the wires left or right
- Figuring out the best /appropriate length wires to route to each plug and
- Routing the wires inside the the PMO manifold holes or around.

I think I may have OCD

That and I'm thankful I didn't go with dual plugs, I'm confident the options would make my head explode.

Gordo

[Gordo2]

Had a good Father's Day weekend.

My brother "Cabmando" (on the right) and his family stopped by this weekend to visit and give a hand getting the engine in:



We knocked out a bunch of final checklist items to get the engine installed and were moving toward starting it up Saturday afternoon when we came to a sudden halt -

The B&B header was way too close to the S-Hose that connects oil tank to the engine oil cooler.

I thought I was good for all parts required to install the headers but somehow overlooked this one. We could have rigged something temporary up, but I figured I would wait until I could order the B&B line to replace the S-hose (prefer to avoid a premature dump of my oil while I'm breaking the engine in).

Also an update to link the thread on building the wire harness for the engine: Engine Harness / Multi-pin Connector for Carb Conversion '83 SC It came out nice (assuming it works...).

Getting closer...

Gordo

[cabmandone]

Ya know what's missing in that picture? A Kolsch.

How did we forget that?

[Lapkritis]

Looks great guys. Nice work.

[JJ 911SC]

Looking good (the car)

[Roslin]

Looks good ! :-)

[Speed Buggy]

Thanks for the thread w/ pics. Sub'ed. I am checking my head to piston clearance and the going on from there. The cam timing section is prolly gunna help me. Cheers, Mike.
Where do you get through Kolsch? Homemade?

[cabmandone]

Originally Posted by Speed Buggy

Thanks for the thread w/ pics. Sub'ed. I am checking my head to piston clearance and the going on from there. The cam timing section is prolly gunna help me. Cheers, Mike.
Where do you get through Kolsch? Homemade?

We are both into home brewing. Don makes his variety and I make mine. Both good but mine is better. Just ask me, I'll tell you

[Speed Buggy]

Sweet. Another area I have yet to delve into, but would like to. Cheers.