Continuing Thread: What Are You Fix-It'ing Today?

[rockfan4]

Originally Posted by Brian 162

Had pulsating front brakes. Removed rotors and found hub face corroded. I chipped the scale with a hammer and chisel then used a disc grinder to finish up. I forgot an after pic but the hub face is now smooth. Brake shudder is pretty much gone. Vehicle is a 2017 Tahoe

I never considered that. I ordered new rotors, but I failed at replacing the brakes on the wife's car. The bolts holding the caliper bracket to the hub are 21mm. The only 21mm tool I own is a lug socket, and it is too long to get in there. I though I was done buying tools. I guess not. Most of my other metric sockets are Craftsman, so I drove to the Ace Hardware to pick one up. Nope, they have some Craftsman tools, but it looks like they are slowly replacing them with Crescent. I drove to the other Ace, they had a Craftsman 21mm socket, but it's made in Taiwan, not the US. The thing is, the sockets on their website say "Made in USA". I wonder if I ordered one to the first store if a US socket would show up.

[HobieMarty]

Originally Posted by Brian 162

Had pulsating front brakes. Removed rotors and found hub face corroded. I chipped the scale with a hammer and chisel then used a disc grinder to finish up. I forgot an after pic but the hub face is now smooth. Brake shudder is pretty much gone. Vehicle is a 2017 Tahoe

Hmmmm, I have a front shudder when braking on my RX300. I have replaced the rotors and pads and that helped but now that the pads need replacing again, the shudder has returned making me think I will check the hub surfaces when I change the brake pads. I have noticed that when installing the wheels back onto the hubs, they are wobbly, like the surfaces are not exactly flat, wonder if this is what is causing my issue?

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[bugstrider]

Originally Posted by Evans, Marv

A neighbor gave me an old bench. I redid the thing and put it down under one of my mesquite trees. It's a nice addition.

That looks nice


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[mthomas58]

Another woodworking jig in the books. I need to up my crown molding game and this crown stop jig will help. I cut crown "nested" (upside down and backwards on the miter saw) historically marking the ceiling projection position on the table with blue painters tape and holding in position with one hand and cutting with the other. The crown stop jig will make cuts dramatically easier and the results more consistent.

[rsrguy]

That's nice... I love it when I get a chance to acurize my equipment

[bugstrider]

That looks awesome!!


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[A930Rocket]

I got back early from the track today, so I’m going on another weight loss program. Started with the rear trunk today.

[rsrguy]

About a month and a half back the battery started not aliving. We ordered a new battery. That took twenty pounds off the airframe, we also put on a high torque light weight starter... that was good for almost 10 lbs. Around that time our new JPI engine monitor arrived.... as did our little trig radio. Anyway we finished up all of the install, buttoned it up and I'm in the air again. I'm finally getting some improvement on my tail wheel game so today I'm fixing the skills portion of the equation.

[porschedude996]

Very well done. I my copy your design. Would you have a sketch or drawing?

Originally Posted by bugstrider

That looks nice


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[herr_oberst]

Originally Posted by mthomas58

Another woodworking jig in the books. snip

Clever, and you have so much patience to actually finish the parts. Your jig-game is next level. I reckon even the doghouse and outbuildings around your spread will be treated to crown moulding.

[JeremyD]

Redid the instrument panel on the boat - and made sure all the instruments work

Before


After

[rsrguy]

That's slick!

[mthomas58]

Originally Posted by porschedude996

Very well done. I my copy your design. Would you have a sketch or drawing?

I don't have a sketch or drawing but here is a description of the design:

The track jigs/blocks rest on a second pair of DeWalt mounting brackets

The hight of the blocks is the distance from the top of the brackets to the miter saw table essentially making them material supports.

The T-track is mounted flush with the top of the block in a dado groove

Good Luck!

[mthomas58]

Originally Posted by herr_oberst

clever, and you have so much patience to actually finish the parts. Your jig-game is next level. I reckon even the doghouse and outbuildings around your spread will be treated to crown moulding.

Thanks!!! And, yes I do have some projects on the to do list.

[mthomas58]

And speaking about future crown molding projects and "accurizing" tools, I pulled the trigger on this pricy aftermarket miter saw fence that I haven't been able to get out of my mind. This thing is exceptional. All aluminum construction. Second pic shows integrated acute angle jig. Will upgrade my 3 1/4" fixed fence to a 6" sliding fence as it mounts on a t-track in the back to the stock fence on the saw.

[rsrguy]

So im recovering a pa -12 supercruiser..(think 3 seat super cub) and i need to remove corrosion from the fuselage. Many like the powder coat route.... I don't care much for it. It can crack and not be visible to the naked eye.... it will wick moisture underneath for a perfect corrosion pod... it's literally an invasion. On these pics I've already used stripper to remove the epoxy...
One of the things a friend pointed out in the past was epoxy primer needs to be top coated, I prefer a flexible urethane like aero thane or super flight... stewarts (water borne) if your a masochist.. it was covered with ceconite with dope... way back, and the epoxy was not sealed, so now I get to clean buff and neutralize all of the rust before I ever get to coating or covering the beastie... the big advantage of painted fuses, or anything for that matter?... easy to spot a scratch and make touch ups...

[bugstrider]

^^^^^
Wow! So when you start a restoration like this, do you kinda assume you’re going to find some ugliness at the weld-points until you get things cleaned off or is it just a wildcard per aircraft job?

Today, just in time for Mrs. Bugs birthday, got the hot tub online. Of course, after having to rework all of the wiring that I had done starting at the GFI spa breaker………

I will be the first to admit that there are a couple things I defer to the experts. Transmissions(I’m learning), carburetors (pixi dust and magic), and home electrical(because it could burn your house down). In the case of the hot tub, wanting to convert from 110V to 229V and after having the electrical done(not me), I throw the breaker expecting sunshine, butterflies and puppies, only to be disappointed by the GFI breaker immediately tripping………… BOOOOOOOOO!!!!!

So last night, I spent several hours trying to un-phuc what was done before me. I am happy to say, I figured it out and did was done incorrectly.

I discovered that the neutral line from the load was not connected to the breaker itself but rather the neutral bus not to mention the crappy connection. Needless to say, all wiring was gutted, cleaned up and securely fitted.


WTH?!?!?


This is where the neutral was suppose to go….

I will admit, due to the connection angle of the neutral the breaker has to be pulled from the box.

Bottom line, everything was done correctly and I even ran a 110v line for a future outlet in the future and the tub fired up as designed. Learned something new so it was a win win and also the reason I attempt to do as much as I can myself.

Cheers





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[GH85Carrera]

I had to play Gumby, and twist and bend to get under the dash of the El Camino, to get to the cruise control module. It is pretty much impossible to see with the seat in place, so mostly work by feel.

Just a clip to push down and slide the module out, then unplug the old one, and plug in the replacement. Then the hardest part is getting the edges of the module aligned with the clip all by feel, and get it to slide up into place and get the clip to secure it in position. All by feel alone. And I needed a second joint in my right wrist, or use my left hand for the start and switch to my right hand for the final push.

Then a test drive, and no more surging!

One of the hardest parts was finding a fresh rebuilt unit for a 1986 vehicle. Lots of used ones on EBAY, but those are total crap shoots, and likely to be NFG right from the box. I wish I could find someone that repairs them as I have two bad ones on the shelf.

[rsrguy]

Originally Posted by bugstrider

^^^^^
Wow! So when you start a restoration like this, do you kinda assume you’re going to find some ugliness at the weld-points until you get things cleaned off or is it just a wildcard per aircraft job?

The initial quote is labor for specified jobs... covering, painting etc. Repair and prep are shop hourly
rate.

Looking like a two passenger tub.. no room for drop ins...lol
Was it delivered by a black 968 on a fridge dolly?

[bugstrider]

Originally Posted by rsrguy

The initial quote is labor for specified jobs... covering, painting etc. Repair and prep are shop hourly
rate.

Looking like a two passenger tub.. no room for drop ins...lol
Was it delivered by a black 968 on a fridge dolly?

Hahahahahaha, yeah no. lol. Actually, it’s a a four hole so drop-ins welcome. We did elect to pass on the 12 person, 200 jet, paired laser/led booming stereo rave party tub offered at home shows. lol
I would not be surprised one bit if someday we find a bear camped out in it. Just a simple tub with a good warranty.