My Own Surfing Thread!

[porsche4life]

Yes .. Ignore the Pain. 45 ? pfft .. you're still a young whippersnapper.



Where you going snowboarding, Sid ? Our Cali snow is long gone.

Arapahoe Basin in Colorado. They are staying open until the end of June!

[sand_man]

Originally Posted by Bill Douglas

It may not be good for family politics, but put the 7'4" aside for a while and get a 9'6". Then concentrate on a smooth easy paddling style. Start paddling for the wave early, and the rest is easy. And most importantly; don't try too hard just enjoy.

Thanks Bill! Last weekend was very flat and sloppy, to say the least. So it was good to be out there just practicing my paddling technique and getting accustomed to body position on this board. All the boards I left behind in FL were all under 7'. So this is the biggest thing I've owned.

[JCF]

Hey sand_man - WRV's are great boards, I've had a few [shorter ones], the reps were just here. They even got out and caught some pretty good overhead waves with us at a spot that rarely breaks around here.

Bill's right, start easy and enjoy - be patient - until you get in paddling shape it can be very frustrating.
Maybe 50% of surfing is paddling (more if currents) - 48% is sitting and waiting for a wave (or enjoying the ocean, your choice). And yes riding the wave is a very small part of the deal.

Summer is almost here - everybody's surfin' now - goin' on safari.....ha ( this was at a local break - da moose is ripping ! )

[sand_man]

Towards the end of my weekend, things were starting to smooth out with my stroke. Much more relaxed yet controlled.

I'm 6'-3" and my weight fluctuates between 190 and 195. On a shorter board, I found it easier to find the sweet spot for a well balanced prone paddling position. On this board (7'-4"), it feels trickier to me. I don't think it's quite long enough for my toes to be touching the tail (as in a true longboard), so I keep sliding up and down the board looking for what's right. Obviously I don't want the nose pushing too much water and same for pearling. Any thoughts?

[JCF]

Just keep moving around on it - you'll find the spot.

One thing that might help is put the board on a countertop or table (when the wife is out) and study the rocker (bottom curve - though on that board it will be fairly flat) and see where the thickest part of the board is.
That will give you a good idea of where the "float' is.
You can learn an awful lot about how a board will go by studying its shape.

Basically, to catch a wave you want your weight situated a little over the tipping point ( with your back arched) so that when you lower your torso the board tips down.

- if however you are just paddling around for position then slide just slightly behind the tipping point so the nose doesn't catch the chop as much.

Another trick, note where - I will even scratch a hole in the wax or put a sticker, where your nose is on the board when you lower your head to get a reference point.

[sand_man]

^^^^thank you

[porsche4life]

Some awesome clips from Fiji.
Weston-Webb Wins ASP GoPro Challenge at Fiji - ASP

[Racerbvd]

I just picked up a 8 FOOT HOLLINGSWORTH LONGBOARD .

Can't wait to try it out, been a long time since I have been on a board, so I'm not expecting to be able to catch air or any cut-backs like with my 5'8 custom built Shroft.

[tweezers74]

Originally Posted by Racerbvd

I just picked up a 8 FOOT HOLLINGSWORTH LONGBOARD .



Can't wait to try it out, been a long time since I have been on a board, so I'm not expecting to be able to catch air or any cut-backs like with my 5'8 custom built Shroft.

Whoa! So awesome! That board looks so cool! Can't wait to hear about your surfing adventures!

[Baz]

Nice score, Byron......cowabunga, mate!

[kidrock]

First time I've ever visited the "Off Topic" section of this website, I can't believe I've missed this 3-year old thread. Yeesh.

I've been a kneerider since the late 70's, spent a lot of my years at the La Jolla reefs, Sunset Cliffs and Mex.



About to bottom turn at a Mexican reef last summer:







Small, fun day last Fall at one of my favorite spots in Imperial Beach:






Any PNW surfing Pelicans on this site? I'm too lazy to go through over 50 pages of this thread. I'll be needing someone to paddle out with soon, give me a PM if interested.

[Baz]

Great pics there Stone - hope to see more posts from you in the future!

Here's a pic of my beach just before dusk. We're in our rainy season now and you never know if the rain clouds will keep coming, make a turn, or make a retreat....lol.

[Baz]

[Craig T]

Simply beautiful ^^^ After 41 years of surfing, I still marvel at the beauty of moving water at the first pitch.

[kidrock]

Wow Baz, NSB? I'm surprised you don't have any shark bite stories...that place has got to be the sharkiest in the country.


Somewhere in the Outer Banks, North Carolina in late December (yes, it was cold):




It was worth the paddle:

[Baz]

Originally Posted by Craig T

Simply beautiful ^^^ After 41 years of surfing, I still marvel at the beauty of moving water at the first pitch.

Well said Craig. Regardless of anything else in my life I'll always be grateful to be a surfer for the sheer natural beauty I have been a witness to in my brief lifetime.

Originally Posted by kidrock

Wow Baz, NSB? I'm surprised you don't have any shark bite stories...that place has got to be the sharkiest in the country.

Somewhere in the Outer Banks, North Carolina in late December (yes, it was cold):

It was worth the paddle:

Yes Stone there are some sharks here but in the big picture I would be MUCH more concerned if I surfed the Indian Ocean or in Northern California. No one has ever lost their life here and the majority of bites are relatively minor.

The Outer Banks...one of my fav. places I've ever surfed. We call it the "Mad Hatter". Used to rent a house in Avon every fall during the ECSC back in the day. I have some slides I'll have to dig out one day from some of those trips. Good times.

Obligatory pic from '72 - a new stick - diamond tail by Creation Surfboards in NSB. Great to have some of these old pics. I wish I had one of every board I ever had. But you're not thinking of those things back then - too busy hunting for surf, chicks, and a career of some sort....

[futuresoptions]

My Cuz was the US Champ back in the day...

[Baz]

Originally Posted by futuresoptions

My Cuz was the US Champ back in the day...

Was his initials R.R. ?

[JCF]

HAHAHAGAHAHA......and I ride a fish and have vintage bikes, car, records and ..sideburns...

from Dark Fall Productions on Vimeo.

HAHAHA....

Surf on the way - maybe even get to ride my non hipster thruster

[futuresoptions]

Originally Posted by Baz

Was his initials R.R. ?

Nah, her initials are T.K.