My Own Surfing Thread!

[Baz]

Ron Jon Surf Shop, founded in 1961 by New Jersey surfer Ron DiMenna

[Porsche-O-Phile]

Picked up this little gem a couple of weeks ago (cat was not included) - looking forward to some more hurricane swell rolling in here later this week or possibly early next!



One of the local kids the other night at my favorite local spot (obligatory pic)...

[Baz]

Sadly, I just found out we lost a giant, an icon, and a true statesman in the surfing community - Mr. Mike Martin. I first met Mike not long after moving here in 1970 and through the years our friendship grew as we shared various exploits that even included me driving him to Magic games in Orlando in exchange for court side tickets (he was a inaugural season ticket holder). Mike developed diabetes about 20 or so years ago and I think ultimately that led to his passing. He was an avid surfer and supporter of our local surf-related causes. He was a founding member of the Smyrna Surfari Club. Mike got involved with professional surfing in the early 80's and was appointed the first head judge of the ASP when it was formed in 1983. Mike went on to travel the world representing the USA along with South African Tim Williams and Australian Terry Day as the 3 main ASP judges sending me postcards and letters and bringing back posters and surf wear that I still have to this day.

I wish I could have said good bye but will attend the paddle out that I know will take place for him. We lost a good guy....

[Geary]

I'm sorry for the loss of your friend, Baz .. Mike looks like a guy I would have liked surfing with. One by one, the Old Guard passes on ..

[Baz]

Originally Posted by Geary

I'm sorry for the loss of your friend, Baz .. Mike looks like a guy I would have liked surfing with. One by one, the Old Guard passes on ..

Thank you, Geary....I love the painting....will pass that along.

You absolutely would have loved to surf and hang with Mike. Amazing sense of humor - always dry - and such a wise and intelligent soul. And he always had a smile - always saw the good in life.

Testimonials coming in from all corners of the world.....

[Baz]

I saved a handful of emails from Mike. Really glad I did.

Here's one he sent out on New Years Day 2009 that gives you a sense of how deeply he was involved with the surfing community:

=====================

Happy New Year to All!

Just a few lines on New Year’s Day to keep in touch with as many of my friends as possible. I’m not as good about that during the year as I should be. I never make resolutions, but I will try to communicate more in 2009.
Last year started quickly for my main job, as Tour Manager of ASP North America. The first event got underway on Jan. 4 –11, and was won by Patrick Gudauskas, of California. It gave him a good start on the WQS race for the year, but he unfortunately could not keep up the momentum. However, another Californian, Nathaniel Curran did win the World Qualifying ratings and joined nine other Americans on the top-level Championship Tour for 2009. Now they all get a chance to dethrone “King Kelly” Slater, who won his ninth World Title. With the Hobgood twins still on the tour as well, the big news for Florida surfers was the re-qualification of Saint Augustine’s Gabe Kling.
In all I worked at 21 events for the ASP and picked up some more frequent flyer miles. A highlight was going to Puerto Escondido, Mexico in November for a contest that is also under our jurisdiction.
I also got to go to Puerto Rico twice, in February and September, where I am the Head Judge for the APSPR circuit. Got to surf “Shacks” with my good friend, Announcer Hunter Joslin. If you don’t get to surf as much as you’d like to anymore (like me) pick up one of Hunter’s “Indo Board” trainers.
We also had some good surf contests here in New Smyrna, including the ESA SE Regionals in April. The Smyrna Surfari Club held it’s two annual events in June and October and the annual Surfari party at the clubhouse was the “Party of the Year”. Christian Surfers had a great contest at Bethune Beach in October, with a Pro Division that has become the de-facto NSB City Championships. I was stoked that my good friend Ronnie Dreggors and my idol, Skipper Eppelin both judged all of those contests with me. The other local judge who rose to prominence in the ASP ranks is Dylan Feindt who was invited to judge several of their events. He is the “New-New Smyrna Judge”.
While in California in Sept. I got to watch the WCT Boost Mobile Pro where Kelly Slater got one of his record-setting six victories for the year (out of 10!). Got to see Kelly a second time when he came home to Cocoa Beach in November, for his brothers’ fund-raiser for Skin Cancer.
So I still traveled a lot, with most of it being the commute between Daytona and Orange County, California. Unfortunately, ASP North America also saw four events cancelled, including one of my favorites in San Miguel, Mexico. It was a belt-tightening year for everyone, and sadly two more events, sponsored by Billabong, have already been cancelled for 2009. To all of you who may have lost jobs and are having financial difficulties, I feel your pain.
Fortunately, I was able to resume my second job of airbrushing surfboards for Greg Geiselman at Wave Technology, in Edgewater. I sprayed boards for a number of labels that are manufactured there, including CB, Orion, Lucas and Cronin. Along with the other local manufacturers, like Randy Richenberg, Erie and Wooster, we will keep fighting for a market share of whatever business we can pry away from the Taiwan sweat-shops. Please buy local surfboards this year. More of your neighbors depend on it than you realize.
I kept surfing myself, though not as much as I would like, with the left hand still kind of gimpy from the pinched nerve. Been riding my longboard almost exclusively, so please don’t laugh when you see me. I decided it was better to get out there and be a kook, than not go out at all.
My third job, on a voluntary basis, as field hand and tractor driver for Gretel’s Grove is still a joy. Mike Brewer is a kind boss and treats myself and Mike Lary well. The rewards of helping to raise a native citrus crop are many.
The biggest downer of the year was the death of Midget Smith on August 23, in California, after a long battle with cancer. He was well-known in surfing circles as a competitor, shaper and Head Judge of the Bud Surf Tour. He and Charley Baldwin had many spirited match-ups in USSF competition. I can report that the memorial paddle-out for Midget on Sept.7, at San Clemente pier was one of the most moving ceremonies in my memory. An estimated 1200 mourners showed up and at least 300 of us paddled out and formed a giant circle. This episode has really been a wake-up call for me about how short life really is. Fortunately I was able to communicate with Midget about my feelings before he passed. I advise you all to hold your friends dear and tell them often, while they are still here to hear it.
On the personal front, my tiny family remains well. My brother, Pat is still in remission and has a good job, where he was promoted again in 2008. Mother lived through her 92nd year in reasonable health, although she is now home-bound and requires constant care. We both thank all of you who inquire about her regularly.
My greatest joy, my nieces Lindsey and Marcie, are once again sharing a house in Neptune Beach and doing great. Lindsey took a job with Enterprise Rent-a-Car and is currently on a vacation in Australia ,where she is surfing with some of her former tour mates. Marcie works at “Shelyby”s” coffee shop in Neptune Beach, so stop and see her when you’re in town. Marcie is also the biggest Orlando Magic fan.
The Magic had a good year in 2008, advancing to the second round of the play-offs. My “Big Fella” Dwight Howard had an even better year. He was the All-Star starting center, won the Slam dunk contest (Superman!) and helped the US regain the Gold Medal in Beijing. They are playing well again this year as of this writing. PT and I already are making plans for an Orlando-Lakers Final. I will try to hang on to those fourth row tickets as long as I can. (Twenty years and counting). Call and go to a game with me.
Well, that should do it for now. I wish all of you a safe, healthy and prosperous year in 2009.
Please keep in touch.
Mike

[tevake]

Sorry for the loss of your friend Baz!
Thanks for sharing his communication, timely for me, about holding your friends close.
I feel that I'm coming out of my too long post divorce funk. And am more able to share the pleasures of good friendships, and this is a good reminder to do so.

Great image Geary, very fitting Bro.

Cheers Richard

[Baz]

Thanks, Richard. So true about cherishing your friends and loved ones. Life is short. Mike was only 69...should have had another few decades at least!

And you need to put your funk in the rear view mirror....seriously!

[Geary]

*
Snow surfing season will soon be here, Richard ..

[tevake]

Thanks guys, I hear you and feel and value your aloha.

Cheers Richard

[Baz]

[Craig T]

Is that a middle-aged Tommy Curren? He was my idol in the 80's and would make frequent appearances at my break (Trestles) in my early 20's.

[tevake]

Yep looks like Tom Current to me. He sure chose an interestion surfing life.

I once got ride a nearly perfect break, in Tahiti. Not a well known spot internationally.
But it had an amazing setup fairly easy take off, then walled up down the line to the right, then the lip started pitching in into a clean barrel that just pulled you in. Gave you the perfect green shack for moments.l Then the wave slowed down and let you out the front door often with dry hair and a big smile on your face. And with enough speed to carry you over the shoulder and into the channel for an easy paddle out.

This spot had the clearest water, and beautiful reef covered with colorful fish, all trying to distract you at the important moments. ��
It did this wave after wave for days at the right tide.
Almost too good to be true.
The sort perfection that people say they would tire of.

Nope I never did, some of the best days of my surfing life.
Maybe if it went on endlessly, I might have wanted a change, doubt it!

Cheers Richard

[Geary]

I think this old photo is of Pat Curren, Tom's dad ..

[tevake]

Great pic Geary, of the historic period of surfing in Hawaii.
Those pioneers of that period must have been fearless .
Opening up new breaks with that kind of equipment.

Big respect!

Cheers Richard

[Heel n Toe]

[Holger]

Originally Posted by peteremsley

First of all: WOAH! What a gal!


Next, watching the movie I wondered how often a surfer gets hit by a board or fin?!
I mean, she surfs "over" a lot of people, very close all the time. Look at 2:11 in the movie for example.

[Baz]

B.O. at Sunset Beach circa 1978 - photo by Lance Trout

[Craig T]

Originally Posted by Baz

B.O. at Sunset Beach circa 1978 - photo by Lance Trout

The water color is right, but that's a pretty good pitch for medium size Sunset. Are you sure that's not backdoor?

[Geary]

Our friend Jeff Hakman won the first Duke contest @ 17 with a pretty nice Sunset tube ride, and that shot does look like the inside line-up. Jeff had to play hooky from high school that day to compete. Peter Cole was our math teacher, and coincidentally he was also sick that day ..