My Own Surfing Thread!

[Bill Douglas]

I was going through some old photos so I photo'ed this one. Sometime in the '80s

[Baz]

Originally Posted by Geary

I remember young & upcoming David from the early to mid '60s @ the South Shore, especially Ala Moana. Ala Mo was where the best goofy footers of our day really shined .. Donald Takiyama, the late Buzzy Kneubal, David, and not so much for his style but rather for his power, Conrad Canha. Then David and Donald moved to Cali, where they became famous West Coast surfer/shapers. A decade later, Gerry Lopez became the hands down top goofy footer @ Ala Mo & Pipeline. (I have a photo to post of Buzzy, but my old surf book is in Bend.)

Thanks for your commentary, Geary. Always interesting to look back at the history of the sport.

I'm reading an autobiography of Mark Richards right now and find it fascinating to learn what goes on in the mind of someone like him - our first ever four time world champion. But his comments about the other surfers are what I find very interesting as the years went by how things progressed. Especially the parts about Tom Curren.

Originally Posted by Bill Douglas

I was going through some old photos so I photo'ed this one. Sometime in the '80s

Great pic, Bill! It's nice to have some vintage surf pics from back in the day.....

[Bill Douglas]

Thanks. I remember that day. I was at a place called Riversdale and there was a horrible crosswind blowing down the beach. Some American guy joking yelled out to me "Where are the waves???" I had a thought and said "Get your boards on the car and I'll see you back here in ten minutes." They followed us guys down a dirt road then through a farmers field and over some sand dunes. There were some tiny but lovely quality waves. The American guys had just come off a military ship that was docked in Wellington after some time in Antartica, so very very pleased to get some waves and warm water of some description. One guy was from Long Beach, CA I remember.

[Baz]

Last Saturday I was headed down Park Avenue in Edgewater on an errand (I was taking a clutch to my mechanic who is working on one of my bikes) when I saw my friend Randy outside his factory talking to someone - and I said to myself - that guy looks a little familiar. Turns out it is a old surfing friend from Port Orange whom I hadn't seen in probably 30 years!

His name is John Crouch and here's an older pic of him in the water on the Ponce side:



And here is the pic I took Saturday of John (right) and Randy (left). These guys as well as myself are now in our sixties!

John has the same big smile he's always had - almost as big as his personality!

[Baz]

My friend, JL and one of his daughters.....genetics!

[dyusem]

I hear that some filming was going on in Ventura last month. I wonder what is in the works?!

https://www.patagonia.com/surfing.html?utm_source=em&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=071318_Gerry_Lopez_surf&ett=1559157753#goingleft

[Craig T]

Originally Posted by dyusem

I hear that some filming was going on in Ventura last month. I wonder what is in the works?!

I didn't see filming or crews, but I didn't check out C St, Point,or Strand. Us paddle surfers are relegated to Mondos now if we don't want our cars keyed.

[DerkPerk]

Love the pictures in this thread! Here in the Midwest we don’t have “natural” waves. This is how I surf...



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[dyusem]

Originally Posted by Craig T

I didn't see filming or crews, but I didn't check out C St, Point,or Strand. Us paddle surfers are relegated to Mondos now if we don't want our cars keyed.

I believe that they were on the Patagonia campus; hopefully someone (in particular) with more knowledge will chime in...all that I know is the world can use a(nother) great surf movie just about now...

[Geary]

.
I like both of those pics, Peter .. they bring back memories of a golden era, when crowds were much thinner.

[Craig T]

Originally Posted by Geary

.
I like both of those pics, Peter .. they bring back memories of a golden era, when crowds were much thinner.

It's not crowded in Ventura

[Baz]

Corky Carroll - World Titles in Puerto Rico........

[Craig T]

Originally Posted by peteremsley

Wow - how many people get stitches every Sunday?

I've had them. I was hit just above my ear. Ten stitches. That was Huntington Beach though. Mostly point breaks up here in Ventura. Much easier to avoid lose boards.

[Baz]

Mr. Sunset - Jeff Hakman, 2016

[Geary]

Pretty sweet CR wave, Peter. Perfection in fact ..

I ran into some more old photos I'd taken of a trip we made to Bali around '75 ..

Not the best conditions, but ANY day at Uluwatu is packed now. On this particular day, we just hung out for a bit until the tide dropped more and the waves cleaned up. Just 3 of us rode for hours:


Here's young Shirley Rogers in '75 (Fast Eddie Rothman on the left):


Shirley's article:
https://thelostandfoundcollection.com/blogs/stories/big-honolua-bay-1976

[Baz]

Originally Posted by Geary

Pretty sweet CR wave, Peter. Perfection in fact ..

I ran into some more old photos I'd taken of a trip we made to Bali around '75 ..

Not the best conditions, but ANY day at Uluwatu is packed now. On this particular day, we just hung out for a bit until the tide dropped more and the waves cleaned up. Just 3 of us rode for hours:


Here's young Shirley Rogers in '75 (Fast Eddie Rothman on the left):


Shirley's article:
https://thelostandfoundcollection.com/blogs/stories/big-honolua-bay-1976

Thanks for sharing, Geary....very cool and very interesting stuff!

Shirley is such a hottie!

Who's the dude in the center?

Also, I enjoyed reading the article from your link. GL is such a hero of mine. I still go nuts when I watch Conan the Barbarian because of the wizard....

I've never been to Indo - maybe one day. I realize it's now all changed but would still be a great trip.

Thanks again for the neat vintage material. And yes, Peter - that is a sweet wave in your post!

[Geary]

.. guy in the center is "snake" ..

Maalaea:

[Baz]

Here ya go Geary.......

Eloy Lorenzo on what the locals are saying to be the longest wave ever ridden in over 20 years at Uluwatu. Video and edit by @margaretriver_productions

[Geary]

Wow .. beautiful wave. What's amazing to me is that there's no pack sitting on the outside. Must have been a relentless swell (no lulls). 70 seconds? For comparison, a big day at Pavones can be 130+

[Baz]