My Own Surfing Thread!

[GH85Carrera]

[sammyg2]

A hundred years ago when i was into it, huntington and zooport were crazy crowded, so we went down to San Onofre.
Major click but not as crowded.

[sammyg2]

I never had the guts to try surfing the wedge.
I did the body surf and boogie board thing there a bunch of times, only got rescued once.










Nothing like shore break

[sammyg2]

[Bill Douglas]

I don't think I've got the spine for it, quite literally.

I remember there is a place in Hawaii called Sandy's where the ambulances park up waiting because there are good high yielding (neck) accidents about to happen

[sammyg2]

Originally Posted by peteremsley

gulp...

it looks pretty shallow.

Yup.
Go over the falls at the wedge and you'll hit bottom most of the time.
The O'fficials have tried to close it down and ban all swimming in that area bunch of times over the years but the local businesses like the tourist $$$$$







Speaking of really bad ideas .......

[sammyg2]

I love this shot, looking over the jetty from the harbor.

[Geary]

... I remember there is a place in Hawaii called Sandy's ...

My favorite bodywhomping spot ! I rode there about 3 weeks ago .. must've needed 20 Q-tips to clean the sand from my ears.

Here's a couple 50-year-old photos a buddy took of me during an afternoon session ..

[Bill Douglas]

LOL dangerous stuff. I'm pleased you are still here.

A beer in one hand, waving the other around for effect... I have body surfed Waimea Bay. Yes.

It was only about two feet, zero swell running, but I did get wet and body surfed the bay LOL.

[Geary]

The Bay can be great at the right size. Oahu is blessed with a number of fun spots .. Sandy, Makapuu, Pounders, Pupukea .. the outer islands not so much. The Wedge will always be the ultimate, though .. kind of a shame they allow surfboards out there.

[Baz]

[Baz]

[SoCal911T]

[Baz]

Art work by my friend, JL.........

[Bill Douglas]

[tevake]

I'm loving the view that drones are getting for us lately.

Id never heard of this Skeleton bay but Wow have a look at this.

https://m.facebook.com/story.php?story_fbid=10155797338882058&id=81269622057&_rdr

Cheers Richard

[Geary]

I'd seen that, Richard .. pretty mind-blowing.

Here's a couple clips of a Bali spot near Uluwatu ..

Impossibles
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=151Q7NQJqhw
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XDVh_5lHGao

It would be fun to organize a Pelican Indo or Maldives boat trip. One last blast for the old timers ..

I'm heading to Fiji in a month, although not specifically a surf trip. There's tons of good surf spots that just need a boat to get to.

[Baz]

Originally Posted by Bill Douglas

Nice pic Bill! I take it a vintage one?

Originally Posted by tevake

I'm loving the view that drones are getting for us lately.

Id never heard of this Skeleton bay but Wow have a look at this.

https://m.facebook.com/story.php?story_fbid=10155797338882058&id=81269622057&_rdr

Cheers Richard

Originally Posted by Geary

I'd seen that, Richard .. pretty mind-blowing.

Here's a couple clips of a Bali spot near Uluwatu ..

Impossibles
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=151Q7NQJqhw
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XDVh_5lHGao

It would be fun to organize a Pelican Indo or Maldives boat trip. One last blast for the old timers ..

I'm heading to Fiji in a month, although not specifically a surf trip. There's tons of good surf spots that just need a boat to get to.

Those are some insane waves, guys...thanks for posting! Sheesh!

[Baz]

Corky's latest prose......he cracks me up every time!

YESTERDAYS COLUMN IN THE OC REGISTER

LARRY AND THE IDIOTS
By Corky Carroll

This is a little story about my pal Larry. Larry is an older lifelong Orange County surfer, a “local” if you will. To say that Larry might have gotten a tad crusty in recent years would be putting it mildly, he has kind of turned into a grouch.

So, one day recently Larry decided to go surfing down at “Trestles,” just south of San Clemente. Unfortunately for Larry he timed it kinda bad as it was about 4 P.M. when he pulled onto the 405 freeway heading south. Eight lanes of bumper to bumper gridlock. “Look at all these idiots, dam I wish they would all just go home.” I guess it didn’t occur to him that is exactly what most of them were trying to do. When one dude in a Honda Civic tried to change lanes to go for an upcoming exit Larry gunned it so the guy couldn’t make the change. They both traded one finger salutes and Larry again shouted, “Freaking idiot.”

It went like that all the way to San Clemente where it finally let up a little bit. By then Larry was not in the best of moods. But he knew there was a good south swell running, and the winds were good, so the surf was obviously gonna be worth the horror drive down there to get it. There was a tiny bit of optimism in his gate as he made his way down the trail to get to the beach.

Finally on the beach and looking out to the surf things took a turn for the worse. The surf was excellent, but there were probably close to eighty people already out there. Looked like ants on a left over peanut butter and jelly sandwich. Larrys mood went from bad to bitterly bad. None the less he was already there so he was determined to paddle out and try to snag a few sets in the middle of all of these “idiots.” On this day everybody in Larrys line or sight was an idiot.

After about five waves where he was dropped in on by at least one or two “idiots” Larry finally caught a good set wave all to himself. As he was screaming down the line and gaining speed to make a fast section he noticed a guy paddling his brains out to try and make it over the shoulder in front of him. Right in the path that Larry had to take to make the wave. He yelled at the guy and tried to wave him off so he could make the section, but the dude was a beginner and was in panic mode. He paddled right into Larrys path. Larry pulled up as high as he could to try and make it around the guy, but the dude was coming too fast and Larry ran him down big time. The result of which was a lot of screaming, name calling and threats. Plus, dings in both of their boards. Larrys last words to the guy were, “Go home you freaking idiot.”

Of course, after all the ranting and raving over this mishap, it left Larry himself right in the middle of the lineup. He jumped on his board and started to scramble as fast as he could to make it over the shoulder of the oncoming wave. On that wave was one of the better surfers in the area and he was coming down fast and hard. Larry saw him and paddled as fast as he could to get around the wave. All of his years of surfing were telling him to stop and let the guy go by, that was the right move in this situation. But he was committed to trying to paddle around the wave and that’s what he did. The surfer on the wave was yelling and trying to wave him off, but to no avail. Luckily for Larry the guy was a good enough surfer to see that he was not going to make it past him and did a big cutback just before running Larry down. The spray from the cutback went right into Larry’s eyes and as the guy went past him the dude on the wave calmly called out, “Go home you IDIOT.”

Larry went home, took a long look in the mirror and pondered the meaning of life.

[Bill Douglas]

Originally Posted by Baz

Nice pic Bill! I take it a vintage one?

Hi Baz. Yep it's a vintage one. I know it's me but I don't know anything else about it LOL