My man cave build

[rfuerst911sc]

Today I didn't go outside until 11:00 and it was only 34 degrees , it stayed at 34 the rest of the day . I came in at 3:00 but was able to get a little bit of plywood up . I'm waiting for pics to upload from my phone so I can post . Tomorrow to be warmer so I am hoping to have the front of the garage closed up with plywood . Amazing how two sections of plywood can stiffen up the garage as much as they do . I am using 1 5/8 x 6 course thread drywall screws to install the plywood , they seem to bite and hold very well . It will all be covered with 1/2 " rigid foam insulation and the siding so not concerned that they are " interior " screws . Will post pics as soon as I can .

[tevake]

Good going getting started on your sheathing, it really does stiffen up a structure.

I was able to get a little done on the fence panel that's next to the entry gate, I'm make it into an opening section for ease of access with the RVs that will be moving thru it.
The adhesive that I used on some parts three days ago still hasn't set up. Plus I'm not keen to work in the chilly stuff myself.

I noticed the details of your kick Azz sounding Boxster. Don't remember seeing it, any pics your could share?

My shop is in shade all day this time of year so doesn't warm up much thru the day.
These first pieces put on three days ago still haven't stuck. I'll have to add some fasteners tomorrow.

[rfuerst911sc]

tevake I don't have any recent pics of the Boxster . It has a 996 GT3 front bumper cover , GT3 replica rocker covers and a GT3TEK rear undertray . I installed a top with glass rear window . The engine is the heart of " the beast " , it is a Jake Raby short stroke 3.6 litre . Makes 280 hp at the rear wheels so aprox. 315 -320 at the crank . I took her out today in the cold what a hoot she spins the tires everywhere . Once I get done with the man cave it will be her permanent home and I can get back to treating her right .

[rfuerst911sc]

One pic of where I ended yesterday . While it's only two pieces of plywood it's a start The front of the building is a difficult place to work because the concrete apron is deep and angled . So yesterday I backed my pickup to the garage with tailgate down . Set a ladder in the bed and it was much safer . That first piece of plywood on the upper right was a joy to install . Wife was on the ladder ( I call it the widow maker because it wobbles ) and I had one foot on the truck bed rail and the other on a upside down Home Depot 5 gallon bucket ! I said to my wife I wonder if any of the neighbors are catching this It is not the way they do it on This Old House But hey you gotta do what you gotta do .

Sue pounded in 2 nails just to hold it in place then I installed a crap load of screws . Today's weather forecast is iffy with 1 " of snow possible tonight so who knows how far I'll get today . I am leaving the plywood a little long/wide so I don't have to make picture perfect cuts and will clean up the excess with a router . It helps speed things up a little bit . That's it for now .

[rfuerst911sc]

Today was another chance to make my face cold so out I went into the low 30's ........ global warming my a$$ Anyway I finished installing plywood on the front . I still have some trimming to do with a router but that's easy work . I marked the back of the plywood with a Sharpie for each eye brow rafter . If I can find my Dremel multi tool I will start notching the plywood so I can slip the rafters through . I'm feeling pretty good with the progress . The next few days not looking too good will just take it day by day . Three more sides to go and she's enclosed !

[rfuerst911sc]

Another day is the 20's this morning I think I am now numb to this crap Anyway I was not in the mood to hoisting 4 x 8's of plywood today so I turned my attention to another portion of the build . Some of you stated to leave my concrete forms in place as long as I could , well today they came out ! One of the reasons I have left them in place is they are helping to support/hold in place the gravel and dirt due to the elevation in the landscaping . So I decided to pull the forms and put in their place white painted rolled flashing .

After the flashing was nailed into place I then installed 1 x 6 PVC trim . This forms the bottom of where the wall plywood will be installed . I will use zee flashing and space the plywood maybe 1/2 " above the flashing . I think it came out good and will " space " the siding high enough off the ground . So both sides and the back are now trimmed at the bottom with PVC boards .

[john70t]

There needs to be an angled wall uphill to divert the flash flood water.

Actually, get a backhoe and dig the whole area up.

[rfuerst911sc]

Originally Posted by john70t

There needs to be an angled wall uphill to divert the flash flood water.

Actually, get a backhoe and dig the whole area up.

All in due time my man I am a one man army . There will be a stone retaining wall along the back and the two sides . Angling of runoff water , perimeter drainage pipe and a decent amount of gravel are all part of the plan . Lastly there will be seamless gutters installed on both sides to control roof runoff .

[rfuerst911sc]

You know sometimes you just have to shake your head Yesterday I knew the weather was going to be decent today so off I went in pursuit of z flashing for the bottom where I installed the PVC trim . Easy right ? OH NO........ I could not find ANYONE that had it in stock that would fit over the 3/4 " thick PVC trim . I went to Home Depot , a local big lumber yard , a local big hardware store..........nada . Oh this is just great Then I remembered a local metal shop , they actually installed my metal roof I figured if anyone had it they did . So off I went , when I got there I knew I was in trouble no cars there . Went to the door and it was locked , closed I guess for the cold/icy weather

So today I call them and they are open but after talking with the receptionist they don't stock it they bend it on demand So I said when can I get 80 ' ? She said probably tomorrow........... so now I wait ! But hey at least they can help me I could have started installing the plywood from the top down but it will be much easier from the bottom up as I can rest the next sheet on top of the previously installed sheet . Weather is supposed to be mid 50's tomorrow but I have no idea when I will be able to pick up the flashing . Weekend is supposed to be near 60 but this is grandchildren weekend so no work allowed.......... so say's the spousal unit . You just can't make this stuff up

[rfuerst911sc]

Never got a call from the sheet metal shop yesterday so I called them around 4:00 . They still had not gotten around to bending up my Z strips I guess they are super busy or everyone is out deer hunting . I told the sweet thing on the phone that I really needed these come Monday........ we'll see . I am dead stopped without them I guess poor planning on my part On a brighter note my two Chamberlain jack shaft wall mount garage door openers arrived yesterday safe and sound so that's good .

Today and tomorrow will be quality time with the grandchildren so hang in there guys I will make some progress next week......... I hope !

[rfuerst911sc]

I'm thinking ahead to insulation and I need some help/advice . For the wall insulation I know I will go with either R19 or R21 kraft faced fiberglass insulation whichever I can get the best price on . Exterior will get house wrap before siding . But I am struggling on what to do for the ceiling . I know I will use white metal roofing panels for my finished ceiling and I have two plans for insulating and need help on which is best or preferred.

1.Option A . My original plan was to staple 4 ' wide reflective foil to the bottom of the rafters by the roof decking , this will create a 3.5 " air barrier/space to the bottom of the metal roofing . Actually it will be 5 " because of the 2x4 perlons . I have the reflective foil left over from previous garage so no additional cost . I would then insulate the ceiling using conventional R30 kraft faced for an additional vapor barrier .

2.Option B . Because I over think everything I now have plan B . Being a metal roof and this will be a conditioned space ( AC/heated ) my concern is controlling condensation at the bottom of the metal roof . So my thoughts are to nail/screw 2x4's laying flat to the bottom of the perlons . That would leave a 2 " space to the bottom edge of the rafter . I would take 2 " poly iso 4x8 panels and screw/nail/glue them to the bottom of the 2x4 spacers . I would do this because I will have soffits running the full depth of the building on both sides ( 28 ' each side ) and the full length ridge vent already in place .

So with option B the poly iso I am hoping is my vapor barrier and isolates/eliminates any condensation from the metal roof . Plus it adds aprox. R12 - R14 of insulating value . With this option I might be able to get away with maybe R19 over the ceiling and still end up with R30 + in total . I can purchase used poly iso 4 x 8 panels locally for $16.50 each and I suppose I could also use my reflective foil in option B by laying it over the fiberglass insulation in the ceiling .

I have gone on other DIY forums and I get cricket noises so I'm turning to my Pelican brotherhood for help .

[oldE]

If you utilize the used poly panels, I would do it this way:
From your conditioned space out/up:
Interior sheathing
Vapor barrier
used poly sheets
additional insulation with no vapor barrier.

Best
Les

[rfuerst911sc]

Originally Posted by oldE

If you utilize the used poly panels, I would do it this way:
From your conditioned space out/up:
Interior sheathing
Vapor barrier
used poly sheets
additional insulation with no vapor barrier.

Best
Les

My concern with this method ( and maybe I'm wrong ) is what if condensation forms on the bottom of the metal roof panels and drips down on the insulation ? Or is the belief that with proper ceiling vapor barrier , insulation and ventilation that condensation will not form ?

[oldE]

Right. Your vapor barrier keeps moisture from the conditioned space from becoming a problem. Ventilation in soffits and peak keeps the space above the insulation at ambient levels, so no condensation.
Best
Les

[rfuerst911sc]

OK let's keep this going The vapor barrier that sits on top of the metal garage ceiling , should that be plastic film like 4 - 6 mil ? Or is kraft faced fiberglass insulation sufficient ? I looked on the website of the radiant foil that I have , it is a perforated foil specifically made for attic installation . So while it is somewhat of a vapor barrier it is not a full vapor barrier . The perforations per the website allow it to breathe .

So I would like to install the radiant barrier on the rafters under the metal roof , this will have 5 " air gap to the metal roof panels and will have full length soffit and ridge vents. Will have metal ceiling in the garage , the vapor barrier then the insulation . Just need to nail down the vapor barrier part and I think I've got it . So the million dollar question on the vapor barrier , use plastic or is the kraft facing on insulation sufficient ? And if plastic barrier is the answer then use unfaced insulation ? Is it too early for a beer ?

[Racerbvd]

Originally Posted by rfuerst911sc

OK let's keep this going The vapor barrier that sits on top of the metal garage ceiling , should that be plastic film like 4 - 6 mil ? Or is kraft faced fiberglass insulation sufficient ? I looked on the website of the radiant foil that I have , it is a perforated foil specifically made for attic installation . So while it is somewhat of a vapor barrier it is not a full vapor barrier . The perforations per the website allow it to breathe .

So I would like to install the radiant barrier on the rafters under the metal roof , this will have 5 " air gap to the metal roof panels and will have full length soffit and ridge vents. Will have metal ceiling in the garage , the vapor barrier then the insulation . Just need to nail down the vapor barrier part and I think I've got it . So the million dollar question on the vapor barrier , use plastic or is the kraft facing on insulation sufficient ? And if plastic barrier is the answer then use unfaced insulation ? Is it too early for a beer ?

Have you looked into spray foam insulation? New a guy who had it in his steel building, and there was a huge difference between the way his felt in the summer and the building I had, the same size.

[oldE]

If you can make the steel airtight, it can be your vapor barrier.
Whatever is above /outside your vapor barrier must not inhibit the passage of moisture.
Best
Les

[rfuerst911sc]

Byron I have not ruled out spray on foam but I'm told it is cost prohibitive but won't know for sure until I call someone and get a quote . And everything I have read to do closed cell foam correctly you have to encapsulate the entire roof structure including ridge vent and soffits . I am old school and still believe a " breathing " attic is a better way to go .

oldE thanks for the feedback I am honing in on a solution .

[javadog]

You may wish to take a little time and study moisture control. The question of where to put a vapor barrier depends somewhat on the climate. You have to consider which side of the wall the greater moisture content is and what temperatures are like, if that is a seasonal issue. Hey solution that works in Michigan may not be the same as one that works in Florida. We are all used to thinking that the higher moisture content is inside the building and that you are trying to prevent it from migrating through the wall when temperatures are low enough outside for moisture to freeze. Given where you live, that may not be your particular problem. Do a Google search, you'll see what I mean.

[rfuerst911sc]

Still have not heard from the metal shop , I think I now have one clue on why the North won the war . Anyway this morning I went out and finished installing the PVC trim as I had just tacked the pieces in place . Everything now screwed in place . Then turned towards cutting the plywood for the eye brow rafters . I finally found my Dremel multi tool and with a new blade went to town . I cut 14 openings in the plywood and test fit my rafters in each one they be good I need to go purchase one cheap roll of roof felt so then I can install the eye brow rafters , cut and install the CDX plywood then one layer of roof felt then drip edge and metal roof panels . I have metal left over from when the pole barn was installed I just need to cut to size .

I am really hoping the metal shop calls me today so I can go pick up . It started raining at noon today and is raining out now but forecast for next several days is decent . I can get some plywood installed if I can get this damn Z strip metal ! Anyway here is one pic showing the eye brow rafter cutouts in the plywood .