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http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1288494101.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1288494127.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1288494150.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1288494177.jpg sorry that exhaust pic wasnt supposed to go in there,the sway bar mount im gonna just make myself,i realize i can probably just buy one aftermarket..but alas,im far to cheap to do that! |
Wow...this is a-freakin'-mazing! Nice work!
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ok,so im pretty much got the flloor done and welded up,took me longer than i thought,but what ya gonna do..now to wire wheel the rest of the undercarriage and por 15
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Shape of the rear fender to the rocker panel
That shape of the rear fender where it blend into the rocker panel is a real collector of road debris, rocks, mud and anything thrown up by the rear tire. That is why it is open down to the ground. (Not curved into the wheel house).
Here is a closing panel I made for the fitting of the two panels at the door rear corner. There is a kidney shaped support just to the rear of the door closing panel to give strength to the door post. The extra support is for that open tube. It is the jack spur. The jack inserts into that tube and supports half of the cars weight when jacked up to change a tire. That's why it has the cover support around it and welded to the inner rocker panel. Lots of work there. Hope the photos help. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1288673367.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1288673383.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1288673414.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1288673455.jpg This is what the rocker /fender /jack support looks like from the factory. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1288673152.jpg |
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(Just having fun with you Bob!) Now back to the thread. |
Now to actually contribute something-- here's a shot of what the underside looks like. The gray is seam sealer but you can kind of get the idea.
Good news is that you don't have to mount the sway bar there, the factory put the sway bar through the triangular flanges in the wheel arches, the bar runs across the body behind the gas tank. You should see three holes in each side, maybe plugged with a plate, but they are there. Even if they are not drilled they are stamped in the body. Hope this helps, I spent 4 years doing a '66, you've made more progress in a few short weeks than most guys do in years, great job. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1288707078.jpg |
The repo Dansk parts I used are tight around the jack support. The kidney bowl (rear outer rocker support) is closed around the bottom too (Not open like my original part) The RD jack support plate, is open on the top (my original '66 was sealed on the top) so there is tonnes of places in that area that can trap junk.
I spot welded some 20ga L brackets all the way down from the window sill to the bottom of the car on both sides, of the wheel well. I painted and seam sealed the edges (on both sides) I plan to pop rivet in an aluminum splash shield to keep that area clean (open to the bottom tho for inspection/spraying in more paint) I will do similar to keep the tail-light housing area free of junk. |
pk,
There was a thread some time ago addressing the pros/cons of removable/fixed shields in the rear wheel wells (sorry I can't find it!). My take is this: if you are going to put something in there, It should be easily removable because chances are it will do just as much to limit cleaning as it will to limit the collection of junk. Tim K |
hey,thanks for all the pictures and pointers,i never thought about the debri factor,i was planning on drilling some weep holes in the bottom of the rockers,i think i'll cut some openings in the area behind the floorjack point,although i did like the feel of how rigid it made the bottom of the fender feel!and your floor looks awesome 304065!
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http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1288925338.jpg
not much new here,just wire wheeling like a son of a gun,i was wondering,how clean do you gotta get the metal for por-15?some of the goo and undercoat in all the nooks n crannies are hard to get to |
Ahhhh! Not stock! Unclean! Unclean!!
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The original factory undercoat was a tar-based coating that was installed either over bare steel or over a thin gray or white primer coat. Over the years, water got between the steel and the undercoating, the steel rusted, and flaked the undercoat off. This makes it easier to get it off, but also means that the whole surface has rust. The hell of it is, if you don't get down in those nooks and crannies, that's where the rust is going to start up again. POR-15 does a decent job of sealing the surface so the oxygen component of the chemical reaction isn't there, but you can't be too careful. The wire wheel will do a pretty good job, you might also try a needle scaler to get into the cracks. From about 1971 the factory started using PVC on the pans, leading up to galvanizing in 1976. . . the early cars really had it bad such that every, and I mean every, SWB you find has rust. Hell, mine probably does in the internal channels where we couldn't get at it. Thanks for the photos! Keep at it and you'll be there! |
thanks 304,that needle scaler sounds like a good idea.and thats hillarious cayman!so i tried to not go insane just wire wheeling,so in between sessions i made the roundstock fender bead,welded 1 side on and dressed it with a file
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you can see acouple warbles in the wheel well line,but its easier to planish the line straight now with the backing making the frnder hold its shape easier,or at least it seems that way.
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304065, what brand of seam sealer have you been using? Scott, notice the mig wire on the factory pic above. Keep on posting super rat.
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wow! i got a needle scaler today,those things are awesome! only bummer,it set me back 170 bucks..
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