Clutch adjustment - pedal not fully returning?

[stevej37]

A hammer?? How could it get out of shape??

[Locker537]

I am trying to discern what hits that L shaped bracket. Is it the housing on the big lever or the pin that extends out of the top of the lever?

EDIT - It can't be the housing because if it is, the omega spring is heavily restricted and won't be anywhere near the cutout in the heat exchanger.

I bent the L-bracket back into shape, but now it hits the body of the large lever and won't let the clutch fully disengage. I shaped it a bit further and re-tested, same issue. I'm out of steam for now...

[Solamar]

Another point of reference for you-

I had the same issue with my pedal not fully returning. I played with the adjustment and got it to return satisfactorily.

Few weeks later, tight turn, S2k on my rear, 2nd gear wide open throttle, exit turn and go for third. I feel something break and hear a tink, tink, tink bouncing access the asphalt behind me and pull to the shoulder. S2k waves goodbye.

My Omega spring broke. 40 years was enough.

Installing the new spring isn't super easy. Be prepared to replace all the bearings and bits at the pivot.

The new omega spring returns the pedal with authority.

[Solamar]

Originally Posted by Locker537

I am trying to discern what hits that L shaped bracket. Is it the housing on the big lever or the pin that extends out of the top of the lever?

EDIT - It can't be the housing because if it is, the omega spring is heavily restricted and won't be anywhere near the cutout in the heat exchanger.

I bent the L-bracket back into shape, but now it hits the body of the large lever and won't let the clutch fully disengage. I shaped it a bit further and re-tested, same issue. I'm out of steam for now...

It is the pin that hits the L bracket.

[Locker537]

Originally Posted by Solamar

Another point of reference for you-

I had the same issue with my pedal not fully returning. I played with the adjustment and got it to return satisfactorily.

Few weeks later, tight turn, S2k on my rear, 2nd gear wide open throttle, exit turn and go for third. I feel something break and hear a tink, tink, tink bouncing access the asphalt behind me and pull to the shoulder. S2k waves goodbye.

My Omega spring broke. 40 years was enough.

Installing the new spring isn't super easy. Be prepared to replace all the bearings and bits at the pivot.

The new omega spring returns the pedal with authority.

Did you take any pictures of the spring? I'm interested in seeing a comparison. My thinking agrees with Ivan in that the spring looks good. There are no obvious cracks or wear.

I need to find a picture or video of where the big arm contacts the L-bracket on the on this part:



Currently, after bending mine back into shape, it is hitting the body of the big arm which is absolutely preventing the clutch from fully disengaging. I suspect I bent it too much.

[Locker537]

Originally Posted by Solamar

It is the pin that hits the L bracket.

Thank you for the confirmation.

I started to sand mine down a bit for a clearance necessary. I suppose I will have to do it a bit more, or buy a new one.

[pmax]

Originally Posted by stevej37

A hammer?? How could it get out of shape??

Yeah, careful there, AL is soft. Knocking a chunk out of the tranny would be a bad day.

[proporsche]

using hammer is an ok job if you are gentle with it ...also pair of vise grips will do the job.Of course the best would be to remove it from the alu bracket with but the Phillips screws could be well oxidized..
I do not know how the arm can hit this bracket in your case..The L shape bracket is there for the Omega spring-Shaft- to stop when the clutch is released...

I you have all this together i would like to see when you step on the pedal what it does....as i mentioned before all this done it is also possible your pedal cluster cross shaft pin is either broken in half or completely...

[Locker537]

Originally Posted by pmax

Yeah, careful there, AL is soft. Knocking a chunk out of the tranny would be a bad day.

You can remove the bracket, see the picture of the part above, before doing any hammering.

[Locker537]

Originally Posted by proporsche

using hammer is an ok job if you are gentle with it ...also pair of vise grips will do the job.Of course the best would be to remove it from the alu bracket with but the Phillips screws could be well oxidized..
I do not know how the arm can hit this bracket in your case..The L shape bracket is there for the Omega spring-Shaft- to stop when the clutch is released...

I you have all this together i would like to see when you step on the pedal what it does....as i mentioned before all this done it is also possible your pedal cluster cross shaft pin is either broken in half or completely...

While this particular task has been frustrating, I believe I had the clutch proper adjusted before we noticed the little L-bracket was bent a bit.

The clutch engaged and disengaged smoothly, and the pedal returned to the fully extended (clutch fully engaged) position with a slight "clunk" as the omega spring pivots on the pin over that little cam Solamar pointed out.

It was at that point I was ready to call it good, but as you noted the L-bracket was bent. So I removed everything and started over. I bent the bracket back into shape, and now it hits the body of the large clutch arm when the clutch it engaging, preventing full engagement.

Porsche still makes the clutch bracket, so I will remove it again and grind/sand the L-bracket to get the necessary clearance. If I ruin it, I can purchase a new one.

The remaining frustration is I still do not know what the root cause, or causes, of these issues.

[Solamar]

Originally Posted by Locker537

Did you take any pictures of the spring? I'm interested in seeing a comparison. My thinking agrees with Ivan in that the spring looks good. There are no obvious cracks or wear.

Hope these help -





This is the broken spring. Clean break on the outer leaf (the one that hooks the pin).

[proporsche]

on your bottom picture you can clearly see how the omega spring shaft stops at the L shape bracket..OP omega spring is in very good condition ..i think there is something we are missing here..i`d say now as i have mentioned the crossover shaft pin ...otherwise it does not make sense...

[Solamar]

Just a thought, but if the needle bearings (14A) have dried up and seized they might give enough resistance to slow the omega spring camming (over center) back to the resting position...

If you end up replacing your Omega spring, chances are good that you will want to replace items -

20 x2
19X2 maybe
19A
14A x2
14B
14C



edit - when I replaced my broken spring, my needle bearings were dry but still OK. I lubed them at reassembly. Maybe thats part of why the new spring returns my pedal better?

[proporsche]

i do not see for the OP reason at all to replace it ???you can see on his video the arm is free and no side movements....

[proporsche]

Originally Posted by Locker537

While this particular task has been frustrating, I believe I had the clutch proper adjusted before we noticed the little L-bracket was bent a bit.

The clutch engaged and disengaged smoothly, and the pedal returned to the fully extended (clutch fully engaged) position with a slight "clunk" as the omega spring pivots on the pin over that little cam Solamar pointed out.

It was at that point I was ready to call it good, but as you noted the L-bracket was bent. So I removed everything and started over. I bent the bracket back into shape, and now it hits the body of the large clutch arm when the clutch it engaging, preventing full engagement.

Porsche still makes the clutch bracket, so I will remove it again and grind/sand the L-bracket to get the necessary clearance. If I ruin it, I can purchase a new one.

The remaining frustration is I still do not know what the root cause, or causes, of these issues.

still i do not understand what you did that the arm is not free now??can i see the picture???

[Locker537]

Originally Posted by proporsche

still i do not understand what you did that the arm is not free now??can i see the picture???

I don't think I should have touched the L-bracket, but if I screwed it up, I should be able to fix it as well.





Here's a video BEFORE disassembled to "fix" the L-bracket. I believe I had the clutch properly adjusted.

[proporsche]

yes i got it it is not L shape any longer more like a U shape....
There missing lubrication we have talked about.On the Omega spring where it meets the shaft----Your adjustment is not good to much space between the little finger and the adjusting screw

[Locker537]

Originally Posted by proporsche

yes i got it it is not L shape any longer more like a U shape....
There missing lubrication we have talked about.On the Omega spring where it meets the shaft----Your adjustment is not good to much space between the little finger and the adjusting screw

I used Super-Lube on the pin. It's clear. I cleaned the part for the picture and re-lubed upon assembly.

You say too much space between little finger and adjusting screw, but that is a .040 gap.

I will try and fix the L-bracket, but will purchase a new one if needed. Unfortunately it does not appear you can purchase just the little piece that screws on.

[proporsche]

i see more them 5mm gap on the adjustment on the video way too much...

[Locker537]

Originally Posted by proporsche

i see more them 5mm gap on the adjustment on the video way too much...

Check this video out. That's two feeler gauges stacked - .019 + .021