Almost ready to PAINT.

[thabaer]

Originally posted by thrown_hammer
Well heck with it. i am taking tommorow off and giving her the whole 9 yards! When you see me next I will have a shiny pastel blue easter egg. Have a good Easter and I will see ya on the flipside.

Whoohoo!

Borrow an extra fan to blow air in the left window to keep the air outside of the booth from going stale and loading up with boom-boom!

expecting pics very soon

[toolman]

Wow, What a bunch of dooms day fans,. Iv'e shot paint in a shop many times with a non-vented, open flame heater, and never had any kind of problem. While shooting primer, don't worry too much about keeping it so super clean, keep that effort for the paint. You DO want to use a good charcoal respirator though, and keep it in a sealed container (zip lock bag) when not in use. They are only good for about 35 hours. Use a good catylized primer or you will see die back after you apply your paint.

[thabaer]

Originally posted by toolman
..Iv'e shot paint in a shop many times with a non-vented, open flame heater, and never had any kind of problem.

Same here, and many people can say the same until the day they die...or learn to fly as previously described

Although in a huge quonset during winter those big turbo heater tubes are nice!

[KevinP73]

Must be having fun!! Anyone heard from Shawn lately??

[notmytarga]

I enjoyed reading this thread because it brought up many issues that I encountered - so far - on my project. I am block sanding primer with 400 grit in preparation for sealer.
I bought a gallon of paint today. Final decision - (not one of the recent choices ) - Marine Blue Metallic.

This picture shows my paint booth. I hung plastic from the ceiling. I wanted to filter the air and filter the exhaust to catch overspray and keep the booth as clean as possible. I put a box fan in the window and used a tube of plastic to run the air to the filter hanging in the plastic. The other filter gets its flow from a pedistal fan I run when actually spraying. I draped plastic over the inside surface of the garage door and taped a sheet to cover the opening at the top when the door is open about a foot. I set up about 6 feet of filters along the bottom of the door opposite where the filters are when the fans are running. It has been up about three weeks and I will need to "resanitize" the booth before spraying color.



The masking paper tree with full 1000 ft rolls of 6,12, & 18 inch paper and tape was $130 total.

This garage has no furnace, water heater, dryer etc to pose a risk of flame ignition. If it did the pilots would be turned off. Our gas dryer is through the plastic and on the other side of an exterior grade door, but I will shut off the gas supply on spray -day.

not one of the recent choices

[thrown_hammer]

Well I spent a total of 19 hours in the garage the last two days! I consumed a case of mt.Dew and here we are today....

[thrown_hammer]

And here we are putting her to bed until I can get out there and wetsand.

[thrown_hammer]

I had an issue with the paint gun. I was running it at 10 PSI because the gun says 10PSI max. KurtV to the rescue. He reccomended 35 PSI at the gun and that did the trick. I have a new found respect for the bodyshop guys....They earn their money.

[Rot 911]

Shawn, looks great! Now get some rest.

[notmytarga]

Looks good - get alot of 330 paper.

I have had more success each time I have used primer as I learn more about my gun. 10 PSI into the gun doesn't cut it - big droplets and lots of runs - doesn't atomitize. My gun has a subtle 43 PSI stamped on the inlet - Targa80 is to thank for pointing this out. This is the pressure that needs to be set while the trigger is PULLED - "dynamic pressure"

Eventually I will be confident enough to shoot color!

A few links that explain this=

Painting Basics at the Auto Body Store

Poke around on this site - Sharpe Guns

Good Luck

[thrown_hammer]

Thanks for the links. I will be reading up. My primer was a primer/sealer so the next step is color. Need to let my fingertips heal a bit before any more sanding.

[}{arlequin]

that last pic is really cool... like some skunkworks project in an x-file-ish sort of way

[thrown_hammer]

Originally posted by }{arlequin
that last pic is really cool... like some skunkworks project in an x-file-ish sort of way

LOL! I know. My wife told me she was waiting for the MIB to show up.

[atlporsche]

you should just clear over the dark grey primer...that's a neat color.

sjd

[toolman]

If you used a primer/sealer and let it dry more than 12 hours, you will have to scuff sand it with 600 for the proper adhesion to take place. It's probably a good idea to give it a little scuff with 600 anyway to remove any surface imperfection, your color will only amplify the contours of the substraight. Use a tack cloth just before painting to pick up any sanding dust. Looks like you are doing a great job, good luck. Let us know if you need help recomending a good micro sand and buff system.

[thrown_hammer]

I am gonna wetsand on Saturday. Its still cool here overnight so I am giving it plenty of time to dry. I will spray color as soon as mother nature cooperates. Looks like a week or more away.

[Jack Olsen]

4/8/04 - Updated the subject of the thread.

It's looking GREAT!

[thrown_hammer]

Thanks for the update on the title Jack.
I am getting antsy to put some color on her! Maybe I will paint some hotwheels or something to tide me over....

[frogman]

It's lookin great Shawn. Be sure to check the passenger seat for overspray, I can't wait to make use of your newly aquired skill.


I can see it now.....STEALTH FROG

BWAAHHAAHHAAHHAAHHAA !!!!

[Oliver911]

Just to give you one more tip along the lines of Kurt, That 35psi is at the gun with air flowing through it (full trigger pull). On a 50 ft hose it is very possible that this may require the outlet of the compressor to be near 100-120psi. Also, I would suggest you put a disposable filter on the inlet of your gun to dry the incoming air for the color and clear.