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plymouthcolt's Avatar
 
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First time buyer-PPI protocol?

I am really interested in some 911 coupes in Houston.

I am wondering what is the protocol for PPI? When I visited a local dealer and inquired about getting the car inspected, the dealer told me I would have to deposit $2,000 with them. Is this standard? It's not like I asked personally to take the car to the mechanic--actually I'd rather the dealer take it there themselves. Will a dealer drop the car at a near shop if I set up the PPI by telephone?

Since I will be flying in to Houston and would have to drive the car back I would like to arrange the PPI before I arrive. Is it better I be present for the PPI?

I will ask for a leakdown, compression, and head stud check? What is a price I should pay for the PPI so I know I'm not getting ripped off.

Sorry if these questions seem kind of dumb, I'm just trying to get everything in order so I don't waste anyones time (and my money).

Thank you.

Old 09-16-2004, 09:47 PM
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It sounds like the dealer wants you committed BEFORE you get the results of the PPI. Is this deposit 100% refundable if the PPI fails? What constitutes a failure? Or will the price still be negotiable after you get the results? Remember, a signed contract is a legal contract.

I did a remote PPI in Houston on a private car that failed compression & leakdown. A fellow Pelican looked at the car for me before I PPI'd it & it looked & drove well. I used Swiss Garage in SW Houston (3520 West Alabama Houston, TX 77027 713-626-9320) & they charged $150 for leakdown & compression & a general check, but I think Ueli (pronounced like Willy) was being kind because he knew the car was a walk away.

Personally, I would not give a deposit until I knew the PPI results. There are other cars.

Is this a Victory car?

Ian
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Old 09-17-2004, 03:43 AM
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We normally charge 3 hours for a full PPI, plus parts (gaskets, oil, fluids, etc)

A full PPI is compression and leakdown , headstud check, bearings, fluids, AC system etc are inspected.

I work for the buyer - I stop when he tells me to stop. I've had PPIs that have lasted no more than 15 minutes.

AFJuvat
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Old 09-17-2004, 04:32 AM
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This is a joke!
3 to 4 hours max at 80 to 100 per hour should do it.
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Old 09-17-2004, 07:46 AM
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They are trying to discourage you from discovering the car's problems. Sounds like you saved yourself a PPI.
-Chris
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Old 09-17-2004, 09:50 AM
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Ian, the dealer is Summit Imports in Houston.

I am keeping my options open. I just saw a Pompano Beach listing and I will inquire on that too. The dealer recommended (for what it's worth) Gulf Performance.

I've found many cars that interest me, but in remote locations that make PPI a real pain. So I'm sticking to the big cities for now.

Thank you everyone for your help. This forum is awesome.

Last edited by plymouthcolt; 09-17-2004 at 03:25 PM..
Old 09-17-2004, 03:14 PM
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Buying remotely is not easy. My first advice would be to be wary of dealers. They are selling cars that often have little to no history that they have patched up mechanically & cosmetically to sell. They buy at auctions & from eBay & AutoTrader etc – the same sources we have. Of course there are exceptions, but then you will pay much more. Dealers prices run at least $5K + above street retail. That is their profit.

After looking at some & talking to numerous dealers, I steered towards privately owned cars. At least you can talk to the current owner & usually his mechanic. It should give you a sense of the car & how it has been maintained – or at least its recent history. You just have to learn to ignore ‘the story’. If all sounds good, ask a Pelican to look at it pre-PPI or go see it yourself. I spent $900 in PPIs over 6 months before I found the right car.

BTW Gulf is a good wrench. They did my fourth & final PPI.

Ian
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Old 09-17-2004, 05:14 PM
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I say walk! I sold cars for 10 years (including Porsche) and I've never seen a REPUTABLE dealer tell someone that they couldn't have the car inspected until they paid a deposit.
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Old 09-17-2004, 06:56 PM
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Just my $.02, but a request for a deposit before leaving with the car isn't unheard of. The key is to make sure to it is refundable deposit. There have been issues with less than scrupulous dealers making it hard to get the deposit back. So I would either write a check or use plastic (AMEX has a good policy regarding stopping payment). If they are above board then they should work with you.

PPI's usually run from about $150 to $350. Obviously the deeper the inspection, the more it will cost. If you want a compression and leak down be prepared to pay more and wait for at least four hours.

Good luck!
Old 09-18-2004, 05:40 AM
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I had a dealer buy a car out from under me while waiting for a PPI at their shop.......pretty sleazy
Rick
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Old 09-26-2004, 08:07 PM
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I would not leave a deposit on a car before the PPI. If the salesperson wants to sell the car they will work out the arrangments to get the car to the PPI.
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Old 09-27-2004, 04:13 AM
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Ask the dealer in writing (or e-mail) some specific questions:
Is it original paint?
Is there prior crash damage? To what extent?
Has the engine or transmission been repaired?
Is there anything else I should know?

Get a Carfax.

Go read this thread and agree with the seller (in writing) so you can have the 911 inspected.
the buying process

Once you and the seller agree, you can contract for a flatbed to take it to a shop for PPI. There, PCAr’s and Pelicans can help you and the shop with the inspection. The more eyes and digital cameras, the better. You may spend a few hundred dollars but there is great value in knowing exactly what you are buying.

Search the Forum on PPI and make your own personal inspection list for that car.

One of the more important things to look for is there prior crash repair?
I would have the local sheriff stop by and verify the VIN and check it with NCIC although that is not usually a problem with a dealer.
For an extra $50 get the build sheet from PCNA.
Get as much history as you can from the seller.

Best,
Grady
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ANSWER PRICE LIST (as seen in someone's shop)
Answers - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - $0.75
Answers (requiring thought) - - - - $1.25
Answers (correct) - - - - - - - - - - $12.50
Old 09-27-2004, 07:15 AM
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Grady,
I think getting the build sheet for $50 is a thing of the past. Now they call it the "certificate of authenticiy" or something and they charge $110+shipping for it.
-Chris
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Old 09-27-2004, 07:31 AM
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Chris,

Is it now laser embossed in a titanium sheet with inlayed gold and shipped in a huge protective container? For something that should be free, the bean counters have found another profit center. Tisk Tisk.

I hate to say it but at US$110 it is still worth having for your car unless you have a copy of the original MSO and sales receipt. Even today, and certainly 50 years from now, the 911s that have clearly documented provenance will be very valuable.

Best,
Grady

PS. How is the Fire Engine Red 911 going? What are the plans for it? Would Ebay be willing to help? Please update the thread.
G.
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ANSWER PRICE LIST (as seen in someone's shop)
Answers - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - $0.75
Answers (requiring thought) - - - - $1.25
Answers (correct) - - - - - - - - - - $12.50
Old 09-27-2004, 07:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally posted by rick conrath
I had a dealer buy a car out from under me while waiting for a PPI at their shop.......pretty sleazy
Rick
'78 930
Extremely sleazy- is that illegal? Its definitely completely immoral.
Old 09-27-2004, 08:13 AM
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Rick, Joe, and ubiquityO,

You are right on. This is one of the many reasons for a written agreement (contract.) Unfortunately there are some less-than-honorable people in the automobile business and individuals. A written agreement goes a long way to CYA.

Best,
Grady

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ANSWER PRICE LIST (as seen in someone's shop)
Answers - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - $0.75
Answers (requiring thought) - - - - $1.25
Answers (correct) - - - - - - - - - - $12.50
Old 09-27-2004, 08:42 AM
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