Another option for 911 roll bars.

[Tom '74 911]

Howdy -
I've ordered and received one of these. I had them powdercoat it for me. It's sitting in my garage still wrapped in bubble wrap waiting for me to get a few free minutes from work. I've got my interior just about prepped and have someone lined up to weld it in for me. I'll post some photos and comments when it's in.

Tom

[kcpaz]

We've put a few of these in customer's cars lately and they have worked out GREAT!!! Depending on the car, it can be a two man job. The bars are made in a fixture, but we've noticed very slight variances between chassis and sometimes you have to tack one corner, and push down on the opposite corner to get the plate to sit flat. If this is the case with your car, it's easier to do with the rear glass removed, but it's not necessary (I did one last week and left the glass in). Like I said though, it depends on the car. Since you got the powder coated version, make sure you tape up the bars around the base plates really well so as not to burn the powder coat with any weld splatter (especially if it's a galvanized chassis). Definitely post up some pictures then you get it in.

[Tom '74 911]

Originally Posted by kcpaz

We've put a few of these in customer's cars lately and they have worked out GREAT!!! Depending on the car, it can be a two man job. The bars are made in a fixture, but we've noticed very slight variances between chassis and sometimes you have to tack one corner, and push down on the opposite corner to get the plate to sit flat. If this is the case with your car, it's easier to do with the rear glass removed, but it's not necessary (I did one last week and left the glass in). Like I said though, it depends on the car. Since you got the powder coated version, make sure you tape up the bars around the base plates really well so as not to burn the powder coat with any weld splatter (especially if it's a galvanized chassis). Definitely post up some pictures then you get it in.

kcpaz -
Thanks for the tips for protecting the powder coat. Hopefully it'll fit right in there - I haven't even done a dry fit yet - I hope to not have to remove the rear glass. If it doesn't sit fairly flat, does pushing down on a corner to get it flat put any/too much preload on it and the chassis? Would it be better to shim up to the bar w/a welded plate?

Thanks,
Tom

[Rory Mckenna]

What is the price for one that fits a mid year sunroof car?? i love the look and finish of this thing..

[kcpaz]

Originally Posted by Tom '74 911

kcpaz -
Thanks for the tips for protecting the powder coat. Hopefully it'll fit right in there - I haven't even done a dry fit yet - I hope to not have to remove the rear glass. If it doesn't sit fairly flat, does pushing down on a corner to get it flat put any/too much preload on it and the chassis? Would it be better to shim up to the bar w/a welded plate?

Thanks,
Tom

I just did one without removing the rear glass so you should be fine. It just makes things a little easier. The "pushing down" on the corner doesn't add preload to the chassis. The movement happens on the base plates.... especially the rear plates that have a slight bend to them to match the curve in the frame rail. You'll see what I mean when you go to put it in.

You need to remove the rear carpet section, sound pad, seat belts, and rear seats and belts. Then take a cut-off wheel and cut off the little "bungs" that the rear carpet screws into (you'll see what I'm talking about when you get the sound pad/carpet out) so the rear base plates can sit flush. Then take your time and clear out all of the paint and seam sealer away from the weld areas. Prep at least an inch beyond where the beads are going to go. This will help cut down on smoke from burning paint and seam sealer. One thing you can do is take a small butane torch or map gas torch and burn away any remaining seal sealer away from the hard to reach corners. Then take a flat screw driver and scrape off the remains. This will also help cut down on the splatter caused by the galvanized coating if this applies to your car. Just be careful not to heat the metal so much that it turns blue. When you go to tack it in, if there is one corner that is slightly higher than the others, tack it with a few good tacks, and then push of pull the opposite corner down. If you really need a shim/spacer, call us and we can ship you an extra plate... but I haven't had to do this yet so I will be surprised if it comes to that.

I plan on putting one of these in my SC soon so I will be sure to document process carefully so you guys can see.


The price on these bars with the 1.5" rear supports is $628 plus shipping. This is for an uncoated bar.

[JayG]

Bump, this is Jay from the GVR4 board and I was wondering if the targa versions were out? Those look great.

[kcpaz]

we haven't fit these in a Targa yet so I'm not sure if they will fit yet.

[Abby3.2Carrera]

Guys,
Sorry to wake up an old thread.
Is this the Patrick Motorsports roll bar? They look very much the same.
People with this bar, how do you like it?

[Chuck.H]

When I fabbed my roll bar, I tied the rear supporting bars into the top of the rear deck, picking up the rear shoulder belt bolts - gave me a wider angle of support. Just an idea, the bars and welds look great!

Chuck.H
'89 TurboLookTarga, 342k miles

[Tom '74 911]

Originally Posted by Abby3.2Carrera

Guys,
Sorry to wake up an old thread.
Is this the Patrick Motorsports roll bar? They look very much the same.
People with this bar, how do you like it?

Yes, this thread is about the Patrick MS roll bar. I like mine a lot. There was another thread recently where I posted some photos of mine installed - it's bee a few years now. I'll see If I can find a link & post back.

Tom

[Tom '74 911]

Here's a link to the other thread: Anyone own this 4pt roll bar?

[Abby3.2Carrera]

Tom,
Thanks! Was it easy to weld it in? I will have to hire someone to weld it in for me. Any negatives from the past few years of usage?

[j911brick]

Just found this thread. I have to admit the workmanship is very good, but I'm not sure they would be legal for SCCA/NASA (after adding the full cage option). My memory is a little fuzzy, but I recall the rules saying something about the main hoop has to parallel, and be as close as possible, to the B-pillars. I may also recall something about tubes cannot intersect the mounting points and more than 10 or 20 degrees.

[RSBob]

Originally Posted by Rich Lambert

Swb?

No Rich it will not go in your misspelled Saab.

I only tease you because the others pay me.