A/C Upgrade Project starts tomorrow!

[mdurbahn]

Originally Posted by mthomas58

Couple of progress pics. Evaporator leak confirmed - check out the oil in the evap box. Good news and bad news on the box removal. Good - found three clips in the bottom of the smugglers box. Bad - found a crack in the lower left hand corner of the box that surely was leaking air and used gorilla glue to patch.





Desert duty unit was a bit of a fitment teaser trying to line up the brackets, spacers and bolts which were too short creating yet another run to Home Depot. Also had to remove the crash bar for easier access.



Test fit pic of one of the rear fender units. These babies are money! Incredibly well designed.

On the rear fender condensors, will you still be able to get at the rubber bellows on the bumpers easy? Or will it be harder to take off the bumper now?

[khamul02]

I believe the two types of nylog depends on what pressure you are running not the type of refrigerant. I went with the blue based on operating pressure.

[mthomas58]

Some more pics from todays adventures.

Griffiths Kuehl kit comes with a evap baffle to direct all air flow through the coil.





To wrap the box I used one layer of 1/8" closed cell dynamat foam followed by a layer of 1/8" foam with foil from home depot and a roll of aluminium foil duct tape. This added a full 1/4" and made for a snug fit going back in the smugglers box.....any larger and it would not have gone back in.







Here is the condenser unit mounted in front of the rear tire. I had to move the upper mounting bar that bolts to the Seat belt retractor mounting point to raise the entire unit up so it did not rest on the torsion bar cover. Oh, and here's the best part. After removing the seat belt retracter, we could not get it to extend...tried to unlock the mechanism with no luck....in a last ditch effort we ( we = Paul "carnutzzz") popped the cover off and the spring came flying out....fortunately no one got hurt!

[Buckterrier]

Great stuff Mark, subcribing for next year!!

[billroth]

Originally Posted by mthomas58

Some more pics from todays adventures.

Griffiths Kuehl kit comes with a evap baffle to direct all air flow through the coil.





To wrap the box I used one layer of 1/8" closed cell dynamat foam followed by a layer of 1/8" foam with foil from home depot and a roll of aluminium foil duct tape. This added a full 1/4" and made for a snug fit going back in the smugglers box.....any larger and it would not have gone back in.







Here is the condenser unit mounted in front of the rear tire. I had to move the upper mounting bar that bolts to the Seat belt retractor mounting point to raise the entire unit up so it did not rest on the torsion bar cover. Oh, and here's the best part. After removing the seat belt retracter, we could not get it to extend...tried to unlock the mechanism with no luck....in a last ditch effort we ( we = Paul "carnutzzz") popped the cover off and the spring came flying out....fortunately no one got hurt!

Is there a crack in the fender, above the condensor, in the last photo?

[mthomas58]

Originally Posted by billroth

Is there a crack in the fender, above the condensor, in the last photo?

No, just a shadow line.

[GH85Carrera]

You will be freezing this summer, and enjoying every moment. It is great to have good A/C in a 911. Enjoy!

[deshetlr]

Subscribed. I'm doing a Rennaire kit this spring.

[mtbguy]

I bought all of the components of the Rennaire system individually, as I did not originally plan on doing the whole kit.

Does anyone know if there is a difference in the evaporator orifice for R134 Vs. R12? I don't remember being given a choice when ordering from our sponsor, but could have been an oversight on my part. I'd rather find out now before I install it and use it.

I plan on using R12, so it could be a problem if it was designed for R134.
Thanks

[hcoles]

subscribed

[Barrpete]

Originally Posted by mtbguy

I bought all of the components of the Rennaire system individually, as I did not originally plan on doing the whole kit.

Does anyone know if there is a difference in the evaporator orifice for R134 Vs. R12? I don't remember being given a choice when ordering from our sponsor, but could have been an oversight on my part. I'd rather find out now before I install it and use it.

I plan on using R12, so it could be a problem if it was designed for R134.
Thanks

Yes, there is. Check to see if its marked on the expansion valve.

[carnutzzz]

I knew I was going to get blamed for the seat belt mechanism "incident".

Hey- when it comes to labor ya get what you pay for!

[mthomas58]

Originally Posted by carnutzzz

I knew I was going to get blamed for the seat belt mechanism "incident".

Hey- when it comes to labor ya get what you pay for!

No worries - apparently all "we" had to do was re-install and it will function in the proper orientation......so they say. dcautomotive is shipping one today for $75. I've also ordered a new Robinair vacuum pump and gauge set to complete the project 100% DIY. Equipment rental charge when we do your system will be, uh $75!

[carnutzzz]

Originally Posted by mthomas58

No worries - apparently all "we" had to do was re-install and it will function in the proper orientation......so they say. dcautomotive is shipping one today for $75. I've also ordered a new Robinair vacuum pump and gauge set to complete the project 100% DIY. Equipment rental charge when we do your system will be, uh $75!

Deal.

[mthomas58]

Originally Posted by JFairman

I think it's best to buy your own 2 stage vacuum pump.
A real good new Robinaire 4 CFM 2 stage pump can be had for around $225 shipped.
I bought this one and it's excellent http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/shop/ROB-15434.html

You'll need it more than once and you'll know it's in good working shape with clean fresh oil in it if you buy it new.
Nice manifold gauges are usually around $60 on up. Harbor Freight has some for about $40 that should work well.
Always unscrew the yellow hose from the manifold gauge enough to purge the air out of it before filling the system so you're not putting some air back in when charging. It's obvious when the air has been replaced with R134 at the fitting, then tighten it back up and start charging the system with the R134 bottle right side up so gas is going in and not liqued (unless you really know what you're doing) or you may hurt the AC compressor.

And a good vacuum pump is about the same price as paying a shop to do a quickie consumer level 15 minute evacuation and R134 charge here in S. Florida.
You can buy R134 in 30 pound bottles for around $100.
Thats enough refrigerent for about 10 fills depending on the car your doing, so you can do your other cars or friends too.

No shop around here will ever do it right... it takes way too long, oil has to be changed frequently in the vacuum pump (they don't), and they need to do it quick and move on to the next car to make money.

You have to do it yourself to have it done right these days.

Followed your advice and ordered this pump and a guage set from thetoolwarehouse.net. Order placed this AM, shipped this afternoon and will be delivered tomorrow & free shipping to boot! Thanks for the recommendation.

[mthomas58]

Originally Posted by mtbguy

Hi there- It looks like its going to be a COOL summer for you!

Im in ATL also and just started my project - using with the entire Rennaire system and Pro-cooler. I will add the interior Kuehl vent kit .

two questions:
1)I see you are switching to 134, but sticking with the r12 Denso compressor, is that a problem?
2) are you going to add a low pressure cut-off switch (I'm debating if I need one- I'm staying with r12)


also- any luck with a local vacuum pump rental place? I thought about trying those specialty tool rental places instead of just HomeDepot/Autozone.

Thanks

The compressor can be used with R-12 or 134a as long as the correct oil is used. I will be adding a hi/low cutoff switch. It came with my new barrier hose set from Griffiths. Finally, no luck with renting a vacuum pump so I orderd one today.

[mtbguy]

Thanks Mark- if you are interested in renting it out for a day or two when you are finished it may help recoup the cost- I don't know what part of town you're in but I would be happy to help subsidize the cost. I have a set of Snap-on A/c manifold gauges if you need them.

My system is going to be the complete Rennaire kit with Desert Duty condenser, except that I ordered the "Jim Sims pro-cooler" to try instead of the pricier option from Rennaire. I'm hoping to get a good leak free system (and using the Nylog goo) and will try and stick with R12.

I removed the front factory condenser this weekend- do you think all of the DD condensers are shipped with bolts too short, or will I need longer ones also?

Thanks

Rick

[hcoles]

what the best book on car AC that best applies to going from R12 to R134 - there are bits and pieces explained in many posts. When I dive into this I want to have a good list and process for evacuating and charging properly. I like the idea of getting a vacuum pump and DIY. I have an 89 coupe and planning to completely redo the ac system this summer. So I need to decide on model of new compressor, hose kit or DIY hoses, 3 way valve, ProCooler or no ProCooler/etc. Right now I'm leaning toward keeping the same evaporator and condensor assuming there are no leaks.

[tsuter]

If you're doing this as a first A/C project I recommend this book.

http://www.acsource.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=8

From Mastercool. Covers all you need to know about R-12 v R134a. High low pressure targets. (They are different). Components, troubleshooting, how, when, where. to add oil. and so on...high/low switches. Fan controls...

[mthomas58]

Originally Posted by mtbguy

Thanks Mark- if you are interested in renting it out for a day or two when you are finished it may help recoup the cost- I don't know what part of town you're in but I would be happy to help subsidize the cost. I have a set of Snap-on A/c manifold gauges if you need them.

My system is going to be the complete Rennaire kit with Desert Duty condenser, except that I ordered the "Jim Sims pro-cooler" to try instead of the pricier option from Rennaire. I'm hoping to get a good leak free system (and using the Nylog goo) and will try and stick with R12.

I removed the front factory condenser this weekend- do you think all of the DD condensers are shipped with bolts too short, or will I need longer ones also?

Thanks

Rick

Rick, happy to work out a deal with you on borrowing the vacuum pump. I'm in Roswell. The issue with the bolts is this. There are two bolts on the passenger side and one bolt on the driver side. Due to the thickness of the DD, the cage drops down leaving a gap between its mounting tabs and the tub. The kit supplies washer spacers but they are not thick enough. I used addl washers to close the gap. I was only able to use one of the supplied bolts on the pass side as the other was obstructed by the crash bar....so I only used one bolt on that side. The drivers side is where the supplied longer bolt is too short....you will need to pick one up at the hardware store that is 1/2" longer. IIRC is is an M6 bolt and you will need one that is about 1- 1/2" long.