A/C Upgrade Project starts tomorrow!

[derkpitt]

Mark,
If you got any crud out of your rear cond you should keep flushing until your 110% sure it's clean without any blockage.
Atomizing flammable solvents is not a good thing to do. Can you say toasty?
I would use a flush that's made for this job.
Here's some useful info,
A/C Flushing

[kuehl]

Mark,
I'm impressed with your pictures, details, overall quality, and patience to stay on task with the gallery. So, I think we are going to use you as our poster child for the week.

Smart move on flushing the deck lid condenser; sounds like years of moisture mixed with the old ac mineral refrigerant oil; blow dry and first evacuation/purge should expel residual spirts.
PM or email me on the alternate nitrogen procedure we provided you if you hit a wall.
Stay Kuehl.
Griff

[mthomas58]

Originally Posted by derkpitt

Mark,
If you got any crud out of your rear cond you should keep flushing until your 110% sure it's clean without any blockage.
Atomizing flammable solvents is not a good thing to do. Can you say toasty?
I would use a flush that's made for this job.
Here's some useful info,
A/C Flushing

Crud looked like sediment - no chunks. Feel like I got it all out. Should I re-flush with a flushing agent? Do the big box auto parts stores carry the $40 flush kits I've seen on ACKits and ACSource? Can't access the site you linked - office server has it blocked.

BTW, I thought any residual mineral spirits would be removed by pulling a vacuum.

Thanks!

[scottb]

Originally Posted by mthomas58

Instuctions called for running the fan wiring through an existing rubber gromment in engine bay to the fender or drilling a hole. Since I could not find a grommet, I opted for running a wire along the high pressure line to the condensers rather than drilling.

Charlie's stuff is just gorgeous, isn't it? Top notch quality just oozes from those pictures.

[kuehl]

On the mineral spirits: the problem of residual solvents is when you flush ac hoses, the mineral spirits (aka, Stoddard solvent, white spirits; paint thinner, SafetyKleen, etc. ) are easily absorbed in rubber ac hoses and when they mix with the refrigerants fun things happen. However not so with a metal condenser. Where you can run into problems is if the "crud" or residual ac mineral refrigerant oil absorbs the solvent and traces are not removed.

You have been doing "A+" work on this project so far, so if you feel in doubt about the flushing issue, and all you have is mineral spirits, do the procedure again and observe the stream as it exits the condenser; when the stream runs clean and no "boogers" are coming out, then you have to assume the job is done.

Normally with these aftermarket flush agents you use a pressurized flush can with a gun and hose. If you don't have one I can loan you mine, however your solution was innovative!
Here are some typical big box stores that sell flush stuff:
Advanced Auto Parts:


32 oz (probably won't be enough), Part Number: 69344
1 gallon (plenty for a deck lid cond.) Part Number: 59030 (pricey but if you think of having to do a job twice its a bargain).
And there is CarQuest and PeP Boyz.

Call us, or PM if you need more help, or
email through our contact page at:

http://www.griffiths.com

[kuehl]

On the mineral spirits: the problem of residual solvents is when you flush ac hoses, the mineral spirits (aka, Stoddard solvent, white spirits; paint thinner, SafetyKleen, etc. ) are easily absorbed in rubber ac hoses and when they mix with the refrigerants fun things happen. However not so with a metal condenser. Where you can run into problems is if the "crud" or residual ac mineral refrigerant oil absorbs the solvent and traces are not removed.

You have been doing "A+" work on this project so far, so if you feel in doubt about the flushing issue, and all you have is mineral spirits, do the procedure again and observe the stream as it exits the condenser; when the stream runs clean and no "boogers" are coming out, then you have to assume the job is done.

Normally with these aftermarket flush agents you use a pressurized flush can with a gun and hose. If you don't have one I can loan you mine, however your solution was innovative!
Here are some typical big box stores that sell flush stuff:
Advanced Auto Parts:


32 oz (probably won't be enough), Part Number: 69344
1 gallon (plenty for a deck lid cond.) Part Number: 59030 (pricey but if you think of having to do a job twice its a bargain).
And there is CarQuest and PeP Boyz.

Call us, or PM if you need more help, or
email through our contact page at:

http://www.griffiths.com

[Mitch Leland]

Great thread, keep me aboard...

[mthomas58]

Originally Posted by hcoles

what the best book on car AC that best applies to going from R12 to R134 - there are bits and pieces explained in many posts. When I dive into this I want to have a good list and process for evacuating and charging properly. I like the idea of getting a vacuum pump and DIY. I have an 89 coupe and planning to completely redo the ac system this summer. So I need to decide on model of new compressor, hose kit or DIY hoses, 3 way valve, ProCooler or no ProCooler/etc. Right now I'm leaning toward keeping the same evaporator and condensor assuming there are no leaks.

I'm told by a very "kuehl source" that the Snap-on A/C Training Manual (PN#ACT279C) is excellent. This can be ordered directly from Snap-on's web site by searching using the part#....it does not come up in the A/C section otherwise. I've got one on order.

[mthomas58]

Originally Posted by kuehl

On the mineral spirits: the problem of residual solvents is when you flush ac hoses, the mineral spirits (aka, Stoddard solvent, white spirits; paint thinner, SafetyKleen, etc. ) are easily absorbed in rubber ac hoses and when they mix with the refrigerants fun things happen. However not so with a metal condenser. Where you can run into problems is if the "crud" or residual ac mineral refrigerant oil absorbs the solvent and traces are not removed.

You have been doing "A+" work on this project so far, so if you feel in doubt about the flushing issue, and all you have is mineral spirits, do the procedure again and observe the stream as it exits the condenser; when the stream runs clean and no "boogers" are coming out, then you have to assume the job is done.

Normally with these aftermarket flush agents you use a pressurized flush can with a gun and hose. If you don't have one I can loan you mine, however your solution was innovative!
Here are some typical big box stores that sell flush stuff:
Advanced Auto Parts:


32 oz (probably won't be enough), Part Number: 69344
1 gallon (plenty for a deck lid cond.) Part Number: 59030 (pricey but if you think of having to do a job twice its a bargain).
And there is CarQuest and PeP Boyz.

Call us, or PM if you need more help, or
email through our contact page at:

http://www.griffiths.com

Built my own flush gun this week (the T1000). Will flush first with mineral siprits again then do a final flush with this flush agent from Autozone. The commercial flush guns I've found call for flushing at 90 to 150 PSI and the PVC I used has a PSI rating of 260 so I should be OK.

[hcoles]

Mark, thanks... I'll see if I can locate it. -hc

[hcoles]

Mark, I just ordered it...so we'll see, I hope it is good reading. Thanks for the tip.

[derkpitt]

Mark, I know you have already flushed at least once.
But next time flush in the oppose direction of nml flow.
Just incase there is some small blockage.

[mthomas58]

Originally Posted by derkpitt

Mark, I know you have already flushed at least once.
But next time flush in the oppose direction of nml flow.
Just incase there is some small blockage.

Great suggestion - will do!

[kuehl]

Mark,

Are parts from the T1000 interchangeable with the older T900 ?
How long with you offer tech support for the T900?
Is the T1000 Rohos compliant?
Can we still buy the extended warranty for T900?



Snap On AC Training Manual http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/search.asp?partno=ACT279&searchTrnsfr=true&search_type=Part&store=snapon-store

[Hugh R]

I have a L/R wheel well condensor like you show that is in line with the cat. I took it out when I put a thermometer there and it appeared to be "seeing" about 140 degree air from the cat. In other words I believe it would be acting like an evaporator and taking in heat rather than rejecting it. I put it back in and I have to charge the system. I'm looking into either insulating the cat or putting some kind of heat shield between the two.

[hcoles]

on the compressor picture it says "R-12" on the label... does that mean it is a R-12 pump or oil?
also...this may have been mentioned in this thread but I don't remember seeing it... the ProCooler replaces the r/d and if you need to open the system or service it for some reason... aren't you supposed to replace the dryer? Do the ProCooler people have some sort of program to make this less expensive compared to buying a whole new kit?

[GH85Carrera]

Originally Posted by kuehl

Mark,

Are parts from the T1000 interchangeable with the older T900 ?
How long with you offer tech support for the T900?
Is the T1000 Rohos compliant?
Can we still buy the extended warranty for T900?



Snap On AC Training Manual http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/search.asp?partno=ACT279&searchTrnsfr=true&search_type=Part&store=snapon-store

I presume the next upgrade will the T-1000 Pro then the T-1000 Gold.

[mthomas58]

Originally Posted by hcoles

on the compressor picture it says "R-12" on the label... does that mean it is a R-12 pump or oil?
also...this may have been mentioned in this thread but I don't remember seeing it... the ProCooler replaces the r/d and if you need to open the system or service it for some reason... aren't you supposed to replace the dryer? Do the ProCooler people have some sort of program to make this less expensive compared to buying a whole new kit?

The Nippondenso was originally designed for R-12 use but it can be used with 134a as well provided the oil is changed to Ester (preferred b/c it is compatible with residual mineral oil used with R-12) or PAG.

If the system is opened and the ProCooler drier needs to be replaced Rennaire does provide the unit at a reduced cost vs the "kit' which sells for $299. As I recall, the canister replacement cost is about $100.

[mthomas58]

Originally Posted by GH85Carrera

I presume the next upgrade will the T-1000 Pro then the T-1000 Gold.

Yep you're on the right track, next version likely to have digital controls!

Thanks for playing along!

[kuehl]

It "could" absorb heat if the condenser, with fan, was not operational.
But when operational.... the proof is in the pudding.

Originally Posted by Hugh R

I have a L/R wheel well condensor like you show that is in line with the cat. I took it out when I put a thermometer there and it appeared to be "seeing" about 140 degree air from the cat. In other words I believe it would be acting like an evaporator and taking in heat rather than rejecting it. I put it back in and I have to charge the system. I'm looking into either insulating the cat or putting some kind of heat shield between the two.