915 Rebuild (Part II) - Time for Assembly

[sc_rufctr]

As always excellent photos and explanations by Peter Z.

[arbita1]

Pete,

If I understand correctly the 2mm should be as shown below on your photo:

[arbita1]

I adjusted the 3/4 fork.

Here is the before picture:


Here is the after:



Does it look right now?

I put the covers on and the shift rod selector still moves freely between the forks.

[Peter Zimmermann]

Very good! That's why I posted earlier (post #105, item #12) that the adjustment is tricky. I'm really glad that your pic was from an angle that let me see what you had done. The factory just doesn't present that clearance setting very well in the manual.

[arbita1]

Originally Posted by Peter Zimmermann

Matt: Tech tip...
When you apply your Curil T, use a clean sheet of paper from an 8.5x11" tablet, and lay the paper on a flat, clean surface. Put your gasket for the diff housing to intermediate housing on the paper, diff housing side up. Squeeze out a thin bead of sealant onto the gasket and spread as already discussed. Place the gasket on the diff housing and the Curil will stick it in place. Make sure it's lined up with the stud holes in the lower left corner.

Now apply a thin bead of sealant to the intermediate housing sealing surface, spread it evenly, put the shift rod in the housing, and hold it so you can see that the detent is "down." Slide the housing into position being careful to not tear the gasket where the two studs pass through it into the diff housing.

Repeat procedure for the nose cover.

Is paint thinner the same as laquer thinner or MEK?

[Peter Zimmermann]

Originally Posted by arbita1

Is paint thinner the same as laquer thinner or MEK?

Not sure, I don't know if its base is oil. I would not ever consider anything other than lacquer thinner or MEK!

[arbita1]

Originally Posted by Peter Zimmermann

Not sure, I don't know if its base is oil. I would not ever consider anything other than lacquer thinner or MEK!

Never mind, it's not the right stuff. I have to stop at the hardware store on the way home tonight.

[arbita1]

I made a dumbass mistake.

I sealed my gasket with the Curil T per Pete's instructions. Got the intermediate case back on and put the nuts/washers on and then realized that I was missing two studs in the differential case.

I forgot when I removed the old intermediate cover two of the nuts were rusted onto the studs and the nuts/studs came out of the differential case. But I could not remove them from the intermediate case because the finned castings prevented the studs/nuts from being pulled out.

So I have to get two new studs/nuts. But now I'm going to have to pull my freshly sealed intermediate case off. Do I need a new gasket? Do I need to re-apply the Curil T to the old gasket? Or can I just put it back on?

[sc_rufctr]

Originally Posted by arbita1

I made a dumbass mistake....

Do I need a new gasket? Do I need to re-apply the Curil T to the old gasket? Or can I just put it back on?

You can reuse your "old" gaskets. You should be able to wipe it off the gaskets with a clean rag without damaging them.
That's one of the many good things about using Curil T.

You could use a little "Isopropyl alcohol" on the rag to help you get the Curil T off.
Just be careful and lay the gaskets flat afterwards so they can dry...

Don't use "lacquer thinner or MEK" to clean the gaskets. It will probably damage them.

(BTW: You're allowed a few dumb ass mistakes when you're doing this for the first time)

[Peter Zimmermann]

Are you sure that a new stud won't clear if it doesn't have a nut on its end?

[arbita1]

Originally Posted by Peter Zimmermann

Are you sure that a new stud won't clear if it doesn't have a nut on its end?

One side might. But I don't think the other side will.

I'm not going to take it apart until I get the studs and try that first.

Do you know what part number the studs are? The PET is a little unclear.

[arbita1]

I think I got it. M8 x 26 - 999 062 139 02

[sc_rufctr]

Originally Posted by arbita1

I think I got it. M8 x 26 - 999 062 139 02

The "26" represents the installed height of the stud not the overall length. (in Millimetres)

[arbita1]

Originally Posted by sc_rufctr

The "26" represents the installed height of the stud not the overall length. (in Millimetres)

Thanks...I was wondering about that.

I think I'm going to just buy a new gasket too. It costs $ 1.00. Which got me thinking...did I get ripped off paying $ 50.00 the gasket set since I don't think I needed half the gaskets in there???

[Peter Zimmermann]

Originally Posted by arbita1

Thanks...I was wondering about that.

I think I'm going to just buy a new gasket too. It costs $ 1.00. Which got me thinking...did I get ripped off paying $ 50.00 the gasket set since I don't think I needed half the gaskets in there???

There are certainly times when buying individual gaskets pays off big time, but buying a kit is good for a complete repair. By the time that you buy the axle flange seals, a mainshaft seal and guide tube o-ring, a shift fork seal, a diff cover o-ring, etc., you're getting up there in price. Also, when you buy a kit the parts inside are generally "fresher," which is a good thing.

[Porsche_monkey]

My rule of thumb ( I'm cheap):

If you do diff side you need all the axle side seals, so the kit is a fair price.

Otherwise you just need two paper gaskets (or not depending on your preference) an O-ring, a shifter seal and the input seal. In which case the 'kit' is a bit expensive. (Did I miss anything?)

And on two occasions I received two identical paper seals in my 915 kit, when obviously you need two different shapes to seal the two tranny sections on a 915.

[sc_rufctr]

arbita1

How is our rebuild going? Any closer???

[arbita1]

Originally Posted by sc_rufctr

arbita1

How is our rebuild going? Any closer???

It took a while to get those replacement exhaust studs. I had to remove the intermediate cover again (after I had already sealed it). Good thing I bought another gasket, because the other one ripped while I was removing the cover.

So I have all the studs on now, intermediate cover back on cleaned and sealed with a new gasket, and nuts all torqued.

Basically, I'm ready to start the 5th/Reverse gear stuff. Hopefully I'll get to that this weekend and I can finish this thing. I'll take picture before I put the end cover on.

Thanks for checking in.

[Peter Zimmermann]

Originally Posted by arbita1

It took a while to get those replacement exhaust studs. I had to remove the intermediate cover again (after I had already sealed it). Good thing I bought another gasket, because the other one ripped while I was removing the cover.

So I have all the studs on now, intermediate cover back on cleaned and sealed with a new gasket, and nuts all torqued.

Basically, I'm ready to start the 5th/Reverse gear stuff. Hopefully I'll get to that this weekend and I can finish this thing. I'll take picture before I put the end cover on.

Thanks for checking in.

I'll try to check in over the weekend and look at your pics...

[arbita1]

Originally Posted by Peter Zimmermann

I'll try to check in over the weekend and look at your pics...

Never mind. Enjoy your weekend.

This thing is fighting me till the bitter end.

You may remember that 5th gear (fixed) was loose and I discovered that the mainshaft splines were damage, which led to a new mainshaft and first gear set. Well, I was installing the 5th gear today and noticed that there was still play (side to side) in the gear. Guess what...the gear splines are damaged as well. I didn't notice that earlier.

So project on hold again until I can find a new 5th gear set.

While I am doing that. Is there any way to verify that I have all my detents set up correctly?