My first tune-up

[James Brown]

Now, let's tackle that clutch change!!

[rallen911]

Yikes!

I think it does need it, though. The clutch is really hard to push in and there isn't a lot of transition. It's either engaged or not.

I was thinking that maybe the "helper" spring was bad, but I haven't taken the time to check it out (translates to: don't know what to look for).

I've been busy the last few nights, so I haven't gotten to finish. The snow may be here tomorrow, but it will be 50 again this weekend. I just need to get out there.

[slodave]

Here's some bathroom reading for you....
First clutch replacement

Going crazy please help

Pedal cluster rebuild

[rallen911]

Great links!

Is she still going strong? Have you had to crack the engine case yet?

I think I'll wait until I get my third garage stall to try this. I'm looking at parking my daily outside all winter, if I can't get this finished up before they put down the first salt treatment!

[slodave]

Still very strong and AX'd these days - the primary function for my 911 now. Case has never been opened, nor has it ever had a top end - 236,xxx on the odo...

[Drisump]

I also have a 915 with cable clutch, it took a bit to get used to (the not engaged/fully engaged question). I haven't changed anything, such as the helper spring, but as I'm completely used to the cable clutches eccentricities, I probably won't touch it. I've done a few track events , auto x 's and have driven a few 915's since getting my car, the clutch part of the equation(on the other cars) seemed to be very similar. Cheers

[Jdub]

Just caught this thread.

= The valve adjusting tool I use is one offered at one time here on the board - it holds an "endless" coil of feeler gauge material and the foot is 90degrees to the handle - this angle (for me) is critical for access and a decent shot at feeling the slide.

= When I adjust valves, I do it once, go to bed, and repeat in the morning. That is, I do through it twice with a nice rest between. Valves tighten with use, so nothing out of ordinary there.

= You MUST use the factory spark plug tool. With its knurled head it is perfect for the job - get one on the Classifieds it is a must have item.

= Gasket cement is a puzzlement. REAL makes silicone gaskets, or just put on the factory ones dry, with no oil on either mating surface.

= Drop the sump and check/clean the screen while the oil is out.

= Mark both the date and mileage on the gas, oil, and air filter unless you are maintaining an Excel sheet of maint. history. I do both.

= At a minimum do check the clutch cable adjustment gap at the bottom of your trans - this is done with the cable off, then on to get it right. The stiffness may be a result of pedal cluster bushings gone bad all the way out to the clutch cable binding. Study this area for another day, but do not neglect the pedal cluster where the trunnion pin holding the clutch cable sits in a small (1/4") brass bush in the "ear" of the pedal cluster. This bush disintegrates, resulting in the pin working directly in the ear - result is an ovaled hole that eventually has to be welded back and re-rounded. BTW, you can do this work yourself and the difference is astounding on clutch pedal feel.

Your experiences so like all of ours when we first started working on these cars. If you do not already have these at hand, be sure to purchase a decent floor lift jack and four-legged adjustable stands of the highest quality (I like the Sears Craftsman ones). Getting used to lifting the car and working with some room is very helpful. Remember always to rock the car prior to getting under it and always put the tires under the car when working on it.

[rallen911]

I'm sorry to say that even after all of the warnings of "you will leave them too lose", I did just that. Unless it's okay for this thing to sound like it's a diesel! It's almost painful to listen too.

Looks like she's staying home for the winter. Any reason that I can't do a valve adjustment when the garage is in the low 40's? I don't think I have much nice weather left to work with.

Things should go a lot more quickly this time, though! At least I know what I'm up against. Now I just need to figure out what they should "feel" like. Tighter than they are now, is the best answer I have for now.

I'll keep you posted.

[rallen911]

I have some questions regarding a redo on the valve adjustment:

1) Do I need new valve cover gasket sets?
2) I read that I should keep my plugs in, right? (didn't do that last time)
3) Probably going to put new oil in it. Is it necessary? I've heard the Brad Penn 20w50 semi-synth is good?

Thanks!

[lindy 911]

You should be able to reuse your cover gaskets; they have not been on long enough to stick.
I take the plugs out so the engine turns freely using the fan pulley nut.

Take a piece of note paper and place an empty coffee cup of average size on top of it. Hold the base of the coffee cup with your left thumb while pulling on the sheet of paper with your other hand. The resistance you feel in the fingers grasping the paper is the "feel" you are looking for.

Lindy

[gregwils]

Unless you drained the oil into a container that you know if very clean, I would use new oil. Yes, Brad Penn "green" oil is great, although it is pure dino oil, not semi-synthetic.

The brand of oil is a moving target. A few years ago SAE CJ oils removed zinc and zddp additives to extend cat life. All flat tappet motors were effected, because these additives provide necessary lubrication to our motors. Some of the manufacturers very recently have added back those additives to select oils. There are tons of oil related threads. However, you are safe with Brad Penn.

[Amanda]

Originally Posted by gregwils

...Yes, Brad Penn "green" oil is great, although it is pure dino oil, not semi-synthetic.

This says "partial synthetic" and "green oil". Am I missing something?

[rallen911]

Yes, that is what I was talking about.

[rallen911]

It's hard to believe that it took so long for winter to finally be over. 5 months is way too long.

The weather's been nice here for a couple weeks, but I just found time to get my baby out. I was hoping that my memory of the valve noise was hypersensitive, but I have confirmed that there is still a/some noisy valves.

I don't suppose there is a reliable way to track down which valves are the noisy ones?

If not, I suppose it will be a good exercise to go through again. Practice makes perfect and third time's the charm right?

I also wanted to thank everyone for their help and suggestions. You make working on my car a lot easier/enjoyable.

[James Brown]

Your only a quitter when you give up completely, way to go and hang in there! when you sell this car and your all misty eyed telling the next owner how to adjust the valves and pull the plugs, no doubt he will look at you in disbelief. Until it's his turn. These cars are powerful and tug at our emotions, as they should....as any great car should.....a-men.

[lindy 911]

Every 911 I have ever heard makes valve noise. It could be that your valves were so tight before you adjusted them that there was no gap at all which would result in no noise. There should be a certain amount of valve noise. Check them again but don't be surprised if they are OK.