My first tune-up

[cgibson67]

Sounds alot like the experience I had when I did my first valve adjustment this past summer. It took the better part of the weekend, though nerves and frustration slowed me down alittle bit initially. I found #1 really difficult because it was almost impossible to see what I was doing, and having to do the first one by feel wasn't working. I moved onto #6 and came back to 1 at the end.

I had to bend the tool like you mentioned in your post, and put on alittle loctite on each nut. They seem to come loose very easily.

And don't wear yourself out too much doing this first adjustment. If you're anything like me, you'll have to do it again in a few days when you realize you set them all too loose (a common newbie mistake, reading through the forums). Second time around, much quieter, better performing engine. Good luck!

[lindy 911]

Rob,

Try this: While rotating the engine with the fan nut and a wrench, watch for the rocker you want to adjust to start moving.

Watch it move all the way through its travel down and then back up.

Once it is back up rotate the crank another thirty to forty degrees and stop.

With your thumb and index finger grab the rocker and move it side to side, it should be loose at this point.

Loosen the nut and back out the screw a turn or so and insert the feeler gauge.

Turn the screw back in until you can feel the "drag" on the gauge when you move it in the gap.

Hold the screw with a screw driver in that spot and tighten the nut.

Re-check the drag on the gauge. If it feels good, you're done with that valve and you can start all over with the next.

It's a valve ADJUSTMENT not a valve GAP CHECK. Don't be afraid to loosen things up.

Anyone who tightens the gap up less than .004" runs the risk of burning the valve. The valve stem will grow in length with heat build up and close the gap. If it's too tight the growing length of the valve stem will prevent the valve from closing all the way; not good.

Hope this helps.

Lindy

[na2ub]

+1 on the setting them too loose newbie mistake. I did mine perfectly in my mind following the "slight drag" description. Car sounded like an old VW bus after I put it all back together. I ended up taking it to the shop. Do yourself a favor, and avoid this mistake. I read something after that I think would have helped. It said that you will not "crush" the feeler guage when you tighten the clearances, so your gap will be set correctly, as long as you can remove the feeler guage without too much difficulty. (i.e.) As long as you can remove the guage without having to struggle it out, you should be fine. I wished I had followed this wisdom, instead of the "slight drag" description when I did mine.

[lindy 911]

A slight drag to one man is loose as a goose to another.....

It all depends on your tool and how you use it.

Lindy

[Jesse16]

Just did my first valve adjustment a month ago and used the backside method. Slow by doable. I'll probably use the "normal" method next time just to compare. I have an 87 Carrera so have same space issue as you. Good to have small hands and take lots of breaks. I did find that a very old tool from my wifes grandfathers tool box worked great as the adjusting screwdriver. A Millers Falls No. 199.
Excellent close quarters 90 degree flat blade unit. Fit the screw head perfect and lots of positions available.

[gregwils]

The challenging part of a first valve adjustment is knowing how much drag is correct. Additionally, it can be difficult reaching back and working partially by feel and partially by sight while trying to keep the adjustment screw from moving while tightening the locking nut.

I found this solution to be extremely helpful. It's a screwdriver with two pointers 36 degrees apart. The guy that figured this out calculated the degree of rotation based on the pitch of the adjusting screw, really clever. I found it removed the guess work on how tight, is tight and made it easier to hold the adjusting screw in the proper position. My first three adjustments took a long time and yielded subpar results. The last one with the screwdriver tool cut the time, frustration and produced a consistent and correct gap. Seriously, I found it to be so accurate, I felt like I didn't need to confirm the gap, but always did.

This is a link to a brief thread...

Tried my new "VAS 911" valve adjust screwdriver with 36 degree pointer....

This link to a video on using it and info on how to buy. I have nothing to do with these guys, just wanted to share my personal experience.

YouTube - VAS Video

[Jesse16]

36 degree screwdriver is probably fine if you have the engine on a stand. Otherwise, you can't use it on most of the valves, just won't fit. Definitely not on the exhaust valve on the drivers side. I needed something much shorter.
Doing the valves on the engine once removed is something I look forward to some day.

[gregwils]

Actually, I just did it with the engine in the car. I ended up making my own screwdriver since I had a short window of time to get it done. I used the shortest screwdriver I could find. I removed my cat, but only to give better visibility. I didn't have any access issues anywhere.

[dshepp806]

While working with getting this adjustment where it belongs, don't overlook (and I'm sure you haven't) looking closely at EVERYTHING down there [arms, E/feet, rocker arms, leaks, headstuds, etc. I found a ever-so-slightly walking roker arm shaft..proper torque fixed that!

Patience is not a virtue,....in the case of the 911, it will make or break you.......time is NOT the issue here...it should take whatever it needs to get it right, PARTICULARLY on the first pass.....high probability you'll be repeating it...loose is better than too tight (as mentioned by many).

I often wished that I had taken the opp (when my wrench had the engine out) to go down to the shop and spend a short amount of time with him on understanding the "feel", if anything, just on one valve.

Keep at it,..but remain methodical and conservative. I was scared sheeitless when I first did it, totally afraid of getting one just a bit too tight. Although an engineer, I do understand that I'm NOT a seasoned Porsche mechanic,..and know the difference.

Stay at it.....this board is quite helpful (as you know).

Best ,

Doyle

[rallen911]

The frustration is passed! I gave up on the idea of finding a "baseline" to see how the gap was supposed to feel. There just wasn't one. All of the valve gaps were way too tight to get the feeler into.

I did my best to set each one to a similar amount of drag while keeping in mind the typical newbie tendency to make it loose. We'll see how it works out. I may have someone who can stop by for an hour to check my work before I button it up.

For now, I'm going to move on to replacing the fuel filter, and checking the spark plug gaps. After I get that done, I should be able to start putting things back together.

[lindy 911]

Be glad you decided to do this; valves that are too tight are soon burnt! The drag you are looking for is sort of like the old motor cycle racing adage about holding on to the handle bar: think of it like a bird in your hand, too tight and you'll crush it, too loose and it'll get away. Same thing here; you want "some" resistance when you move the feeler but not so little that it feels slippery and not so tight it takes a lot of effort to move it. After all, it will only go so tight before it starts to move the valve stem out of the way and onto the spring pressure.

Lindy (with a bird in hand)

[rallen911]

How clean do the heads have to be before putting the valve covers back on?

I scraped the best that I could. I'm thinking that next time I won't use a steel razor blade, because the head is sooooo soft! The razor kept catching on the head surface.

[lindy 911]

As clean as you can get them. I never use a razor blade for the same reasons you mention. A good gasket scraper that looks like a putty knife works best for me. Stuff the rocker boxes with clean rags to keep the scrapings out and work slowly and you can get all the old gasket material off. Do not use gasket sealant on the new gaskets as the next time you do this it will be a major pain.

There is an aerosol spray that can be used to soften really stubborn gaskets so they almost fall off but I can't remember the name of it right now. The cleaner the mating surfaces are the better the new gasket will work. If old material is left behind, there's a good chance it will leak.

Lindy

[rallen911]

This may be my first and last tune-up. Things are not going so well. I think I did okay on the valve adjustment, which is the part I was worried most about. Unfortunately, I don't know when I'll actually get to find out. I have at least 2 problems ahead of me.

Question...

What reasons could there be for not being able to put the new spark plug back in its hole? The obvious reason is that there is something in there, and if that's the answer, then my next question is how would I go about getting it out?

Also, my brand new spark plug socket does such a good job of holding onto the spark plug, that it won't let go before the ratchet lets go of it. I even had one of those handy-dandy locking extensions that aren't supposed to let go. It did, and now it won't go back into the socket.

So I have one spark plug that won't go in, and I have one spark plug socket that won't come out. I think I've done enough damage for the day...

Any ideas are welcome. I'm seriously considering dropping the engine, because I don't think it would have taken any longer than doing this with the engine in.

Rob

[James Brown]

Take your handy dandy socket and do one of these tricks: you can remove the rubber sleeve holding the plug in but it might slip off before you get the plug started. better to ream it out till it just barley holds the plug then spray a little WD-40 on the sleeve to make sure it slips off. If you have a ratchet, a 4" or so extension, a universal, and the plug socket, wrap electrical tape around the socket and the universal and the extension, 1 layer should do. This prevents the universal from drooping when inserting a plug and, coupled with the above, makes sure everything comes out.
Use a small mirror and a flashlight to look in the whole where the plug should go to make sure that thee is not something 'stuck' in there. The plugs don't go in 90˚ to the valve covers, 1,2,3 are a little forward and 4,5,6 are a little back. Sometimes you hit the head stud nuts and think your on the hole. Don't give up!! hang in there, don't pull the engine just for this Have a beer or two first.

[rallen911]

Thanks James. All good suggestions!

Any idea how to get the spark plug socket out of there? The locking extension won't go back in ( because it's locked ). I tried some masking tape around my other 3" extension, but that didn't seem to help.

I think one of my biggest complaints is that I didn't see anything but 3, 6, or 8 inch extensions. I would really like a 4" or 1" extension. I should be able to find one, but I am guess nowhere carries more than one.

I'm so mad right now, that I don't think I can go back out to the garage. Time to simmer down now... I'll hit it again in the morning.

[James Brown]

Yeah, every once in a while mine comes off the universal. I just put a regular extension on it and, holding tension on it (turning clockwise against the tightened plug with about 10 lb. force) wiggle the socket as you pull out keeping tension on the plug until it pops out, hopefully! I also used a 3 finger grabber to pull it off. The Porsche part in the tool bag is a great tool for pulling plugs

[KNS]

The best and easiest tool to use for the spark plugs is the factory tool that comes with the car's tool kit. If it's not in there - get one.

[rallen911]

I just wanted to say thanks for the advice and encouragement.

I was able to get the plugs in and wires connected up. I also replaced the rotor and distributor cap.

Life's gotten in the way the last day and a half, so I've been stalled. I still need to change out the fuel filter and install new air and oil filters, new AC belt, oil, and the replace all the bits I moved to create access for the valve adjustment.

Maybe, I'll have some video for when I start it up!

[slodave]

Rob, after this is all done and a bit of time has passed, you'll look back and be glad at what you did. Even if it was frustrating at the time. It does get easier. Now you have an idea of what to expect in the future and after learning what you have, it won't be early as difficult.