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Congratulations Marc, well done! :cool:
Do you know where that little washer came from? Did you mention this and I missed it? Re: rebuild vs move forward: Depends on your budget, right? If you can afford to, why not :p Start with an assessment of what machine works needs to be done, the condition of the bottom end, the re build cost (parts vs machine shop labor) and go from there. It will be good to finally know the cause of the low compression in #4. My guess is the head/valves, but we'll have to wait and see. Anyway, great job sticking with it when it would have been easy to torch the whole thing :eek::eek: You deserve ->http://forums.pelicanparts.com/support/smileys/wat6.gifhttp://forums.pelicanparts.com/support/smileys/wat6.gif Cheers |
"Do you know where that little washer came from? Did you mention this and I missed it?"
Perhaps when removing the heat exchanger while the engine was upside down? If you audit the fasteners in the plastic bags (good idea BTW), you'll find the source of that errant washer. Sherwood |
Thanks guys. I have all my parts labeled and stored so it will be easy to go thru. On the surface it looks like a valve cover washer. I went thru all my bags for the valve covers and I had all mine. I suspect this might have been a gift from the PO as well. the washer was sitting in the plug hole, I pulled out the spark plug and in it went. Plus the washer is very dirty like its been sitting in the hole for a while.
Jason, yup I plan to put together a list at this point and some prices and see from there. I can say I know I had low compression on 4 and I have the heads off the engine so at a minimum it really doesn't make any sense to not send them off and have a valve job done. |
Hello Everyone..once again work is getting in the way of my project.. I hate it when that happens.. :) Anyway, so here is how she sits right now. I would say based on how far down it is and the things I know is wrong it doesnt make any sense not to split the case. so far we know the timing chains are old and the compression was low but with a cold reading and #4 was even off further. So, im at a cross roads here, this is not a numbers matching car or engine so no need to be period correct. Do I keep going with this engine and have machine work done or do I just put a used engine it ? Either way im guessing the cost would be close. Also, as a side note this car has never run while ive owned it so I have no idea about the transmission status. It seems fine but you never know until you get ti going.
option 1 - split the case, new bearings, new timing chains and sprockets, valve job on the heads, rebuild the rockers, send the cam towers off to be cleaned and have the oil tube cleaned out and not sure if you just replace rings on these engines or you have to get both new P&Cs. Also, im not sure on the CIS since it was all gummed up and I got the FD unstuck but no guarantees there are not other issues. Option 2 - find a new used engine and put that in. Ive seen a few in the 4-5K range that have not been rebuilt. So all of you that have been following, what do you think? what makes the most sense here? http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1316786575.jpg |
glad to have you back. My vote is to rebuild it and that way you will know what you have. if you can make rs pistons work, those P/C set are pretty cheap right now. You really don't have to do allot of machine work since its a late case.
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Sherwood |
It may be an expensive rebuild, depending on the amount of machine work you end up needing and whether you can re-use the pistons & cylinders.
Having said that, a used motor is usually a bit of a dice roll. You just can't be sure that you are not far away from a rebuild on any motor you buy either. Thing about rebuilds is that they are all or nothing. If you go for it, you WILL end up doing all the necessary machining and replacing everything that must. You just won't be able to go half way IMO |
Part of the problem is now you are guessing about why the compression was low. If you had done the leakdown test suggested before, you would know if it was leaking through the rings or valves.
I don't know how to make that determination now. |
Rebuild.
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It would be easier to just buy a used engine and swap it in. But, then you would have a whole 'nother mystery motor on your hands. If you rebuild what you have it may not be as quick or cheap but you'll know exactly what you have and can run it with confidence for 100,000+ miles. Rebuild.
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I think rebuild is going to be the answer. Now time to split the case and save a few $$$ for the machine shop.
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I havent looked at this thread since day one until now. Wow, quite a story. Where are you in ATL?
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Ive been reading my engine rebuild book and it appears that the Alusil cylinders are basically a one time use type of thing? You cant hone them and putting new rings in a old cyl seems to have no guarantees of seating right and might induce the need for another rebuild in a 1000 miles or so. Since mine appear to be this type and they have been off the engine at least once, based on the marks on them, im guessing the only real choice is to buy new P&Cs?
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Marc, very glad to see you're still at it and didn't throw in the towel!
There are several threads about the all important and precise prep work that goes into re-ringing an Alusil cylinder. As James has mentioned it can be done. Wether you want to invest the time and money is another question. However if the budget allows for new/used P/Cs then game on! I'd be very interested to see the re-build budget breakdown of the 2.7, compared to buying a 5k plug and play 3.0 CIS from an SC. Once you start adding P/Cs, machine work, gasket kits etc etc etc I wonder if it isn't nearly the price of a good 3.0?! This question has to have been asked 5k times on this BBS :) Which ever way you go Marc, you've got a bunch of us rooting you on! Good luck buddy! |
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