Well ive been fighting it but it seems like that is going to be what has to happen. Clearly something is in there and wrong and I just need to start taking it apart to find it. The question is how far will I have to go? not like its going to run the way it is so who knows how far it will go?

stay tuned...

you didn't replace the cam timing chains, correct?

something lodged in the oil pump gears?

something hitting a rod or a crank counterweight?

correct. I didnt replace them. however depending on how far apart I have to take this thing it could be in the future.

one thing I wanted to mention when I was taking out the rockers after getting rid of all the silcone I noticed that some rockers slid out easily and others had to be tapped out like nick fulljames does in his vids. Should i be concerned about that? I also saw some scoring around the area where the rocker shafts slid in. I even had one that slid out with bolt and all when I only loosened it slightly. so do you think the PO left me with another gift?

Of course. This will be at best a source of oil leaks. At worst, if you can't get the shafts tight in their bores, the shafts can walk out and boom, there goes your rocker.

You can get special o rings called RSR-style rocker shaft o-rings that help with potential leaks. They fit into the grooves in the shafts.

+1 on the RSR seals Marc, was going to mention that the 1st time you showed the pics of the rocker sleeves with the red sealant...

been running into lots of issues today..i guess im not supposed to be laboring on labor day. anyone know how to get these exhaust bolts off?? They are so close to the header I cant get a socket on it or a box end. The only thing I can get on is an open end and that just slips.http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1315244674.jpg

yeah, the sealant was everywhere!!! ill keep that in mind if i ever get this thing back together.

Would a fuel injection wrench work on that? You know the type, almost closed end, but with a small opening...make sense? Otherwise, will a short socket on a swivel joint work? Is that a 10mm or 13mm?

I've used a very short socket (like 1/4 inch drive) and a "wobbly" attachment (13mm socket). Some of those are very hard to get at, but not impossible.

its a 13 mm.. I tried the wobbly but not the 1/4 inch drive. the brake line wrench sounds like a good idea.. ill try that

no luck.. the problem is the space between the header and the nut. i think im just going to take a break for today in this saga..i can start drinking now right???

Start drinking. Sounds good to me, I think I'll join you.

good plan.. I spent alot of time in slidell working at Slidell Hospital.

I need like a sacrificial socket that I can grind down and make a thin wall socket out of it.

have you tried a crow's foot?

also, bust out the torch. i've heard tell that you need map gas (as opposed to the propane used for plumbing torches) but i've used propane with good results. heat the nut until it's very hot and try it. make sure you don't burn yourself, you've had enough pain :)

When you put the nuts back on use 12 mm exhaust nuts from NAPA, copper in color and 1/4 inch swivel will work from Sears.
Bruce

hmmm..crows foot.. that is a good idea.. ill buy one of those. Thanks. Yeah, pain for sure!

the adventure continues...

update - WOW something actually went my way with this car!! I got the exhaust off with out breaking a single stud! Of course, the bolts were pretty loose. Anyway, so I have now looked down all the intake and exhaust ports and no valves have anything stuck in them or are open. The motor still sticks in the same exact place. I have also take the pins out of the cams so they dont move at all and still its stops in the same place. sooo. it looks like additional dismantling is in the future. im going to pull off the timing chain boxes and see what happens and then I guess the cams and heads will be coming off next.

stay tuned...im going to find this problem if if kills me.

more to report..and i have to say im pretty confused. when the engine is horizontal it will spin about 200 degrees and then stops. Since I have the exhaust off now and its easier to get the engine vertical I figured id look down the cam timing cases and see what happens when I turn it over. Well it went all the way around no problems! if its at 85 degrees vert it stops, 90 degrees all the way around and it work either way I rotate the engine! put it back to horizontial..engine stops. So I say fine even though I cant hear it something must be causing the issue in the case. I flip the engine completely over and remove the oil sump plate and screen and look in. I dont see anything in there at all causing a problem. I had it dead quiet in the garage and I cant hear anything move when I spin it. so now what??? logically there has to be something in the way...