now onto a few vacume questions. it looks like I have a few plugged and broken vac lines. put the comments above each pic..

in this pic, in the back right hand side. there are cut electrical wires, I think these are for the tail lights on the pass side but right above that looks like a cut vac hose. does anyone know where this should go?? it looks like it comes from the canister on the right.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1309573717.jpg

is this a vacum canister?
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1309573770.jpg

This is the back side of the CIS. There are 2 plugged vac lines. does anyone know what they were originally for? Given the fact that the PO did such dumb things I want to make sure I hook things back up the correct way.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1309573900.jpg

update: this morning I pulled off the transmission. its COVERED in grease from the split CV joint boots and it looks like the throw out bearing has way to much play in it.

I also, removed the shroud to see more of where the mouse was living. plenty more to clean up. Also when I was removing the wires from the alternator one of the post is rusted and just turns and the blade connector is loose where it enters the alt as well. Looks like ill be rebuilding that as well.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1309618527.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1309618578.jpg

shop-vac

wear a dust mask and gloves when doing it AND when you empty the shop-vac - discard the mask & gloves, then go take a shower

Google hanta virus for just ONE reason why

after that, you can use soap and water and then brake cleaner to go after it (wear new gloves and a new mask when you do that)

this is a good time to clean up all sorts of things and carefully inspect for cracking, cracking, and... mouse bite marks on everything you removed or can get to while the stuff you removed is off

I plan on it. just waiting for my yoke to show up so I can slap it on the engine stand and finish cleaning/inspecting. Here is the list I have so far...


CV joint boots
swepco cv joint grease
Oil cooler seals
breather gasket
Themorstat O ring
oil pressure switch
atl pulley wrench
valve cover gasket kit
trans ground strap
shifter bushing kit
swepco trans fluid
intake gasket
fuel in jector orings
injector sleeves
spark plugs
clutch kit
maybe fuel injectors have to test although the one I pulled out was rusted so not a good sign.

Question: I have the transmission just sitting there on a dolly waiting for me to do other work. i cleaned the grease off it and besides changing out the gear oil would you do anything else? I know the trans has not moved in at least 2 yrs. When it was in the car I could shift thru all the gears and the axles spun freely, of course we weren't going anywhere because the engine didnt run. I just figure "while its out" lol anyway anything else you would do?

You could take the trans apart and replace obviously bad parts, but that would be opening up a whole new can of worms. But, if you put the motor back in and find the trans is bad then you get to to pull it all apart again. Personally I don't think pulling the motor is a big deal so I would wait and see the what the trans tells you so you know where to focus your repair efforts.

911lvr,

Kudos to you for digging in this far! You asked earlier if it was all worth it. Once you get the car running well and on a nice twisty road, you'll know that it was worth the effort.

The cannister you asked about is the charcoal cannister. Good to see you pulled the motor and getting all that mouse crap out of there, otherwise you would have wondered why your car was runnung so hot.

Yes - replace the drive shaft seals - and the main shaft seal while it's out.

I'd also replace the transmission ground strap - cheap insurance.

Good time to check the condition of the trailing arm bushings - almost impossible to change with the engine in the car.

Thanks Kurt. ive definitely learned alot so far and I will have the satisfaction of knowing its done right. When it is back and running im sure i will get more enjoyment out of it.

James, cool. it wasnt so bad I got the engine out in 3 hours by myself the first time so I know it will be easier in the future, plus I will hopefully have a lift soon to make it even better.

The fun continues... Where is my engine yoke??? I need to finish cleaning and adjust the valves.

Jeremy, the trans ground strap is already on the list. As far as checking the bushings, Is it just a visual inspection to see if they are deteriorated or am I checking for play?

a couple shots of the trailing arm bushings.http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1309984667.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1309984723.jpg

check for play - almost impossible to check visually - but if you can move the trailing arm joint "up" replace.

I wouldn't mess with the bushing right now. You have enough on your plate and you should make sure the engine is OK before you get any deeper into this project.

As I have mentioned before, all 4 CV joints need at least rebuilding and new boots. hopefully, it doesnt need more. Any way, when I dropped the engine I disconnected them from the transaxle with no problem. Yesterday, I when to take them off the wheel side and I noticed that someone has tried this before and rounded out the 6mm hex bolts on a few of them. Im not sure if they just couldnt do it right or what. so im guessing now my only alternative is to cut off the head with a cut off wheel and then use a stud extractor to get it the rest of the way. Any other ideas?

You're now on the slope, slippery or not, of restoring your car. Stop now and ask yourself if you're in this for the long haul. It will take much time, labor and a budget.

Best wishes on this project.
Sherwood

Thanks. I passed the slope a LONG time ago..lol I really do just want to get it running for now but it also has to be safe so im trying to balance doing the things that make sense while its in its current state with the engine and trans out. Eventually the car will be completely restored but for now, a nice runner will be good. I like tinkering with things, it keeps me out of trouble. I also know this will not be the last 911. I have a bad habit of collecting things. :) At one point I had so many motorcycles in my 2 car garage I couldnt get a car in there!! Im def in for the long haul.

thanks everyone..the adventure continues...SmileWavy

You can usually drill out the CV bolts and they will usually screw out by hand.

update - well I took a little break and went to the beach with the family. had a great time and when I came back my yoke was waiting for me. Does anyone have a close of picture of one mounted? obviously the studs are long and need some kind of spacers and it look like the engine yoke will hit the oil cooler a well, does it get spaced off the block a little as well? Thanks as always...http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1310927936.jpg

Stomski racing sells a nice yoke nut set. you should not use spacers off the block. That also doesn't look like the standard Porsche yoke.

I had a similar finding on my 79 930 motor. I ended up pulling the motor and it is currently on the stand as we finish up a top end rebuild. It is a slippery slope. We did a lot of "while we are in there" stuff. There was RTV everywhere. What a mess... There are some people that shouldn't work on cars.