An entire summer's work--ending in failure

[john walker's workshop]

the loop end cable is for a trans that uses the omega spring, the long and short release arms with the adjusting bolt between them, and the aluminum bracket that holds the end of the cable sheath with the two adjusting nuts. is the end of your cable sheath attached to this bracket? a '74 trans would not have this setup and the loop cable would not work. post a picture of that area.

[E Sully]

I see you have a few posts on the same topic. Mounting point, cable ends, and length due to the mixing of parts from different years seems to be the problem. Like JW wrote, post a picture.
Are all clutch cables the same?

[DRACO A5OG]

His 915 trans is not OEM to his baby, it is a upped with the Omega Spring and Helper Arm.

[gsmith660]

I didn't see this mentioned in here so I will. Did you see that the arm on the pedal cluster that the clevis attaches to is not spinning on the pedal shaft? Can you see it moving with the pedal as you push it in? Otherwise I agree with John you should post a pic of the trans end of the cable.

[john walker's workshop]

you can update the omega spring, both arms and the longer vertical shaft up through the bellhousing, but you still need the bolt on brackets that the sheath attaches to, and adjusts on, as well as the bracket that the omega spring pivots on and has the steel stop on it for the long arm. as far as i've read, you still have a '74 trans, right?

[john walker's workshop]

E SULLY posted this pic on your other thread. does your setup look exactly like this.

[Flat6pac]

On a 915, regardless of year, the large helper spring and 77 to 86 bowden shield, cable and attachment to the trans are all the same. The pad eye to connect the cable to the idler arm is pictured.
The cable has to be turned in about 20 turns on the clevis in the front.
The bowden cable has to be tapped to seat on the fire wall.
The retainer for the 15mm adjusting nuts has only one location on the side studs as does the spring pin.
Bruce

[Hotwatermusic]

E SULLY posted this pic on your other thread. does your setup look exactly like this.

My set up looks exactly like that except for the spring that goes to small arm. My clutch set up was definitely updated from the original 74 parts. When I get home I will post a picture.

[Hotwatermusic]

you can update the omega spring, both arms and the longer vertical shaft up through the bellhousing, but you still need the bolt on brackets that the sheath attaches to, and adjusts on, as well as the bracket that the omega spring pivots on and has the steel stop on it for the long arm. as far as i've read, you still have a '74 trans, right?

I have original magnesium 74 trans, but all the clutch the mechanicals are updated to an omega spring, double arm, hooked end clutch cable set up.

[Hotwatermusic]

Here's what my clutch set-up looks like right now:






I have everything listed in the pictures you guys were posting except the spring that runs from the small clutch release arm to the transmission body. Clutch is brand new.

Here's a picture of the old clutch cable, which worked absolutely fine for well over 2 years, and to my eyes looks the same as the new one I put on. As soon as I can tomorrow I am going to remove the new cable and install the old one and see if it makes a difference.

[john walker's workshop]

looks normal enough. the pedal cluster is rebuilt and the roll-pin on the clutch pedal is good. did you check the tube in the tunnel to see if it was loose from it's mounting tabs? moving the sheath forward by way of the two nuts raises the pedal.

[E Sully]

Your pedal cluster video shows way too much slack. Your pedal engages much too low.
Have you tried to reduce it at the pedal cluster clevis as well the mounting nuts on the transmission? I see you have a few threads left at the transmission mount to take up slack, probably could tighten up at the pedal cluster clevis also. I was able to get it on my 1973 with it close to the end of adjustment.

[peon77]

Is your change lever on the right spline? look at the difference in your photo and the other. See the bolt on the clutch release levers? If you have too much slack Id look to adjust it out here.

[peon77]

[Carrerax]

Was this issue ever solved?

[Hotwatermusic]

Well, here was the problem. All clutch cables are NOT the same. Both of these are hook-end Gemo cables. So even amoung the same brand, style, and type evidently there's differences. The clutch cable on bottom in the picture is the new one, and you can see the slightest bend in the clevis threads where it was bumping up against the eyehole on the pedal cluster shaft. It was actually much worse, I had to straighten it out just to unscrew it from the clevis! The top cable is the old one, which I re-installed--and the car shifts perfectly now. When I look back on all this, I feel like I circled the globe to just go down the street. I think the entire issue from the beginning of summer could have been fixed between the large helper arm, clutch cable and pedal cluster. But then what would I have done with my entire summer?

[tobluforu]

Don't you just love those easy fixes?
Don't feel to bad, I put the ring gear on wrong, cock-eyed, put the tranny/engine back in, adjusted the cable which felt a little weird and pop goes the TO bearing off of the PP. Had to do it all over again.

[lupin..the..3rd]

Originally Posted by Dublinoh

if it was man made it can be fixed...

Clearly you have never owned an Audi with electrical problems. lol.

Originally Posted by Hotwatermusic

--and the car shifts perfectly now.

Sorry you bought and replaced all those expensive parts, only to discover it was a bad cable. Glad you got it sorted out, a victory is a still a victory. :beer:

[aston@ultrasw.c]

I like reading disaster stories, makes me feel better about my own garage adventures

[Carrerax]

Great, so now we cant buy the gemo cables that everyone sells?