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Pedal Cluster Rebuild Help
I like doing projects myself, but I am about to give up on this one. I was able to drive out the pin that holds the clutch arm to the shaft without to much difficulty, but the arm is completed rust welded to the shaft. I have tried to soak it in WD40 overnight with no luck of removing and have also tried heat with a torch with no luck. Does anyone have any other recommendations? I really do not want to spend the additional money to have someone else do it, but it seems my options are getting slim...
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All Long Hoods, 2002 TT, 1992 968, 1999 SPB, 2004 C4S gone, but not forgotten 1982 SC - Grand Prix |
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Max Sluiter
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WD-40 is not a great penetrating oil. I think Kroil or PB Blaster are the good ones. The heat should be good, though. Can you get some sort of gear puller onto it?
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1971 911S, 2.7RS spec MFI engine, suspension mods, lightened Suspension by Rebel Racing, Serviced by TLG Auto, Brakes by PMB Performance |
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Mine was stuck too.
Use a hammer and a drift to punch the clutch rod out (#32). Then the outer piece (#36) will slide off in the opposite direction.
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Pete 79 911SC RoW "Tornadoes come out of frikkin nowhere. One minute everything is all sunshine and puppies the next thing you know you've got flying cows".- Stomachmonkey |
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Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 2,948
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When I've run into this problem I've secured the part of the arm (#32 above), that provides the anchor point for the clutch cable, in a large vise. Set it up so that you can use a lot of leverage to turn the pedal arm (#31 above). Soak with PB Blaster. Keep trying to turn #31, first clockwise, then counter-clockwise, then back again. Over and over, until you get tired. Soak the part again, and rest for a while.
It has taken me more than a couple of hours to get the parts separated. Once you have a little movement it gets easier. Heat works well, but before using a torch read the warnings on your solvent can to be sure that you're safe. Also, working with a cherry-red part becomes far more difficult unless you have an old pair of welder's gloves.
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Keep the Shiny Side UP! Pete Z. |
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I soaked mine in all kinds of penetrating oils and and also tried to heat and twist it until the cows came home without success. I finally used a drill bit to put a small indent on the end of the cross shaft. Secured the pedal arm in a vise and then used an air impact hammer with a rounded off pointed bit to push the shaft out. Worked like a charm.
Rich |
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Got if off!
After trying all of the suggestions above (thanks everyone), I had to resort taking it to a shop to get it pressed out...they felt bad so they did not charge me
Was able to got everything else apart and will be taking it to the powder coaters and plater and then will start the rebuilding process.
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All Long Hoods, 2002 TT, 1992 968, 1999 SPB, 2004 C4S gone, but not forgotten 1982 SC - Grand Prix |
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Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 2,948
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Tape off or close off areas you don't want coated. Powder coating can be pretty thick, and you don't want to deal with a bunch of bushings that no longer have correct clearance.
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Keep the Shiny Side UP! Pete Z. |
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