![]() |
|
|
|
Registered
|
Pedal Cluster Rebuild Help
I like doing projects myself, but I am about to give up on this one. I was able to drive out the pin that holds the clutch arm to the shaft without to much difficulty, but the arm is completed rust welded to the shaft. I have tried to soak it in WD40 overnight with no luck of removing and have also tried heat with a torch with no luck. Does anyone have any other recommendations? I really do not want to spend the additional money to have someone else do it, but it seems my options are getting slim...
__________________
All Long Hoods, 2002 TT, 1992 968, 1999 SPB, 2004 C4S gone, but not forgotten 1982 SC - Grand Prix |
||
![]() |
|
Max Sluiter
|
WD-40 is not a great penetrating oil. I think Kroil or PB Blaster are the good ones. The heat should be good, though. Can you get some sort of gear puller onto it?
__________________
1971 911S, 2.7RS spec MFI engine, suspension mods, lightened Suspension by Rebel Racing, Serviced by TLG Auto, Brakes by PMB Performance |
||
![]() |
|
Registered
|
Mine was stuck too.
Use a hammer and a drift to punch the clutch rod out (#32). Then the outer piece (#36) will slide off in the opposite direction. ![]()
__________________
Pete 79 911SC RoW "Tornadoes come out of frikkin nowhere. One minute everything is all sunshine and puppies the next thing you know you've got flying cows".- Stomachmonkey |
||
![]() |
|
Registered
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 2,948
|
When I've run into this problem I've secured the part of the arm (#32 above), that provides the anchor point for the clutch cable, in a large vise. Set it up so that you can use a lot of leverage to turn the pedal arm (#31 above). Soak with PB Blaster. Keep trying to turn #31, first clockwise, then counter-clockwise, then back again. Over and over, until you get tired. Soak the part again, and rest for a while.
It has taken me more than a couple of hours to get the parts separated. Once you have a little movement it gets easier. Heat works well, but before using a torch read the warnings on your solvent can to be sure that you're safe. Also, working with a cherry-red part becomes far more difficult unless you have an old pair of welder's gloves.
__________________
Keep the Shiny Side UP! Pete Z. |
||
![]() |
|
Registered
|
I soaked mine in all kinds of penetrating oils and and also tried to heat and twist it until the cows came home without success. I finally used a drill bit to put a small indent on the end of the cross shaft. Secured the pedal arm in a vise and then used an air impact hammer with a rounded off pointed bit to push the shaft out. Worked like a charm.
Rich |
||
![]() |
|
Registered
|
Got if off!
After trying all of the suggestions above (thanks everyone), I had to resort taking it to a shop to get it pressed out...they felt bad so they did not charge me
![]() Was able to got everything else apart and will be taking it to the powder coaters and plater and then will start the rebuilding process.
__________________
All Long Hoods, 2002 TT, 1992 968, 1999 SPB, 2004 C4S gone, but not forgotten 1982 SC - Grand Prix |
||
![]() |
|
![]() |
Registered
Join Date: May 2008
Posts: 2,948
|
Tape off or close off areas you don't want coated. Powder coating can be pretty thick, and you don't want to deal with a bunch of bushings that no longer have correct clearance.
__________________
Keep the Shiny Side UP! Pete Z. |
||
![]() |
|
![]() |
Thread Tools | |
Rate This Thread | |
|