1st drop & top end observations & questions

[r-mm]

Originally Posted by CCM911

Are you guys sure that the hose clamp shown is correct? It almost looks like someone repaired that line. All mine have the pressed hydraulic connections at the ends.

I think Jon is saying it is not correct. It also leaks around that junction so my guess is that it was monkeyed with.

[CCM911]

Actually, on a 3.2, this is incorrect. Well, add that line to you order list.

I know it is a pain, but I had to do it as well.

[Jcslocum]

The hose clamp is not correct. There should be a crimp or swedge type of ferrule/collar on there. It's not high pressure so Oetiker clamps will be good. Use 2 of them, 1 just behind the ridge on the pipe and 1 more 3/8" further back and you will be good to go. These ferrules that are crimped on, rot away since they are right behind the wheel and get sprayed with all of the bad stuff used on the roads. The Oetiker clamps are SS and won't rust, chew the hose or loosen. They are pure genius for this kind of application.

Trying to loosen that fitting is also begging for disaster and broken pipes and knuckles will be the end result!!

[CCM911]

I use two pipe wrenches. Place them close enough together so you could get your hand around them both, and just squeeze. The connection will be loosened with zero drama, and zero strippage.

[r-mm]

Speaking of tools, I'm about to place an order for the essentials. PP's articles are very useful but I want to know what is nice and what is essential as many of these are pricey and have no other use.

-Cam holding tool / Z-bar are must haves since I don't want to add time to this process by fabing either.
-Flywheel lock needed if clutch is being inspected I presume? Any reason this one won't work w/ebay yoke?
-Clutch alignment tool probably worth it

-Chain tensioner tool needed or just nice to have?
-Are the flywheel bolt and heat exchanger nut tools available without the P-tax ie from amazon, HF or similar?

[Jesse16]

Cam holding, yes. I sold mine when done, they should be able to be found used. Z Bar, I like many others just used a magnetic base, flex stalk w/dial indicator and it worked fine (not rocket surgery). Just attach a piece of carbon steel someplace nearby to stick it to.
Clutch alignment tool comes with the clutch maybe?, its a cheap plastic thing.
I didn't do my own flywheel so ??
Chain tensioner not needed in my opinion.
These clamps worked great!

[Smoove1010]

Based on what I did on my project: 87 Drop Top - Drop-n-Top End

-Cam holding tool / Z-bar are must haves Correct - don't forget your dial indicator guage too.
-Flywheel lock needed if clutch is being inspected I presume? Any reason this one won't work w/ebay yoke? I used a metal strap with holes to hold the flywheel still - I believe Wayne's book shows how this is done.
-Clutch alignment tool probably worth it Yes, and a bargain to boot.

-Chain tensioner tool needed or just nice to have? Numerous forum entries show how to use vice-grips, clamps, even turnbuckles to do this job.
-Are the flywheel bolt and heat exchanger nut tools available without the P-tax ie from amazon, HF or similar? Yup - I used a combination of tools I already owned for all of these - Harbor Freight, Snap-On, Craftsman, etc. Nothing magic about these as long as your allen-head socket fits through the holes provided in the HE's.

Good Luck!
GK

[r-mm]

Thanks guys this is great feedback. This forum is a great place. If you ever need to be reminded of that fact, try asking a question about an S2000 (wife's car) on a Honda forum. It is the wilderness out there.

[r-mm]

Engine is almost down, but there is a thick brown cable that is still connected to the motor. This was not mentioned in bentley and its routing is extremely tight against the firewall so much so that I can't even tell what it's connected to eve after cutting all the zip ties I can access. I suspect it is the three plugs that I disconnected at the panel. Can someone please advise how to proceed?

[yelcab1]

Remove the MAF.
Disconnect the clamp attaching the cable to the MAF (you can see it in the first picture)
Route the 3 connectors out of the way of the engine.

Drop the beast.

[Jcslocum]

I have an old input shaft for aligning the clutch you can use. No special tool required.

I have mag bases for the dial (digital) indicator

[r-mm]

THANKS. She is down.

Balance point leaves something to be desired. I had the ATV jack pushed as far fwd as the handle would allow (bumper is on) and the front of the tranny wants to drag, I'll have to get a dolly and pull the whole mess out with a helper tomorrow.

All told, not so bad. Clearance is cake with my huge aluminum jack and 12t stands, its clearance and disconnections that were the tricky part if any.

Are black plastic zip ties (literally, zip ties) stock? I think the PO may have organized the engine bay with some and these made it harder for me to recognize that the three connectors I removed on the MAF/throttle would hang. Either way, there should be a line in Bentley to the effect of "push the cables clear of the MAF after disconnecting" I hope I didn't do any damage to them, I'll check continuity before reinstalling.

Only other hitch was that I had to remove the throttle linkage on the D/S of the trans to clear the halfshaft. No biggy.

Originally Posted by yelcab1

Remove the MAF.
Disconnect the clamp attaching the cable to the MAF (you can see it in the first picture)
Route the 3 connectors out of the way of the engine.

Drop the beast.

[yelcab1]

zip ties are not standard, but used all the times to tidy up the wiring. Good habit.
About the connectors, if you disconnect a connector, it is because that the connector has to be out of the way of the engine in order to remove the engine. Why else would you have to disconnect a connector?

[r-mm]

Fair enough. Its easy to get into a checklist mentality when doing something new, need to keep up the common sense.

[GH85Carrera]

The manual states to put the engine back in just reverse steps. You are done with the easy part!

[r-mm]

I was thinking as I dropped the motor that getting it back would be slightly trickier.... not to mention the steps between known as rebuilding the top end and whatever else presents itself. I can already see muck galore in the triangle of d.

I do have to say the Bentley includes actual steps for re installation of the motor not just "reverse what you just did". I've said it elsewhere, but is an excellent book, leagues above anything I've used before.

So now that I've had a night's sleep I'm ready to say that the ATV jack is workable not ideal. It has pedals to raise and lower and the lowering pedal is a blunt tool. No matter how delicate I was with it, the engine surged down and shook every time. Unless I am doing something stupid, I really can't see how you could get the balance point right without removing the bumper and pushing the jack further forward or building out a long plywood top surface with a significant forward cantilever. Incidentally I agree with everyone who says there is no need to remove the bumper. If anything is about this process is a two person job, getting it on and off w/o scuffing is. I dropped the motor alone, will get the wife to help me wheel it from one garage to the next for the rebuild.

[yelcab1]

I find that I can drop and install the engine alone, but it is safer and better with at least one more person. I also find that the two jack method works very well for me. If you want to use the ATV jack, get a really good one with fine adjustments going down. The cheapy ones are too uncontrollable. I use the ATV jack taking the Ferrari engine out and that works well enough.

[r-mm]

Originally Posted by yelcab1

I find that I can drop and install the engine alone, but it is safer and better with at least one more person. I also find that the two jack method works very well for me. If you want to use the ATV jack, get a really good one with fine adjustments going down. The cheapy ones are too uncontrollable. I use the ATV jack taking the Ferrari engine out and that works well enough.

Two Jack = one on tranny one on engine? I have a little trolley jack on the trans now but can't see how I'd roll the engine around like that. I suppose for most people it doesn't need to go far before its hoisted to a stand. I happen to be bringing it to the garage next door.

[yelcab1]

Two jack method: One jack underneath the engine, one underneath the transmission so you can tilt the whole thing forward or back. On your car, you don't need to pull it back at all, just drop the whole thing down on to two small moving dollies one under each heat exchanger. Then remove the jacks, and roll the engine out. Reverse the process on the way back.

[r-mm]

Wasn't pretty but it worked. Mostly a pain because I had to off-road it into my second garage, but its parked safely and what's more the dreaded G50 cross shaft came out with no drama.

Going through Bentely there seem to be some missing steps. The Engine Disassembly section doesn't to my knowledge mention the engine tin, many peripherals such as the heat blower & ductwork etc. Can someone run me thru what steps I should undertake the disconnections? Until I can pick up my crane and receive my Yoke I'm working on the ATV jack.

(wife in place of motor)