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Registered
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: So Cal and So Oregon
Posts: 2,167
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An update...more wiring work stripping out harnesses. Removed the fuse box too as it will be updated. Having a few issues with the wiring, but I need to work system by system. Looks messy, but there is some method to the madness.
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Registered
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: So Cal and So Oregon
Posts: 2,167
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Taking a break from wiring, I decided to change out the leaking cam cover gasket on the right hand side. It was relatively easy with the exhaust and lower engine tin removed (from taking off the AC compressor bracket).
![]() I will need to replace the cat to muffler bracket as it was rusted away and I had to cut the muffler bolts off. I then decided to change out the motor mounts. The bolts to the crossmember were seized and in trying to get them off I tore the crossmember on both sides. I have a beefed up one on order. ![]() ![]() Last edited by SpyderMike; 12-11-2014 at 05:11 PM.. |
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Registered
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: So Cal and So Oregon
Posts: 2,167
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Back to the wiring while I wait for the new crossmember. I think I will remove th fog light system too. I never used it.
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Fastest Hunk of Junk
Join Date: Jun 2014
Location: ATX
Posts: 669
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This car is such a survivor, you'll be joined at the hip after all those miles and rebuilding it. Cool story, and makes me optimistic about my 136k miles 3.2.
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-Brent |
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Registered
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: So Cal and So Oregon
Posts: 2,167
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Thanks, the car has been brilliant. I think it stranded me twice in 25 years...once for cylinder 3 temp sensor and once for the a.c. pulley breaking loose from the crank. Other than that, it has been - turn the key and drive away.
The only real engine work other than tune ups has been one alternator somewhere around 100,000 miles and a valve job at 200,000 miles. It has earned this. |
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Registered
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: So Cal and So Oregon
Posts: 2,167
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Okay, So I am thinking about updating and relocating the fuse panel(s) in the frunk. I am looking at all the real estate behind the smugglers box where the fresh air blower and ducting was. The wires seem pretty long and should make it there. The battery will be relocated in the smugglers box anyway. The only wires I will need to extend are the lights and the ones going down by the fuel tank to where ever they go (tunnel?).
Does anyone know of any reason I can't/shouldn't do this? |
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Registered
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: So Cal and So Oregon
Posts: 2,167
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Accomplished some thing yesterday -
Installed new motor mounts: ![]() A new Rennline crossmember: ![]() and reinstalled the muffler with new CAT bracket and new hardware: ![]() Then I made a plate to block off where the A/C compressor bracket was. I still need to paint this plate: ![]() |
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Registered
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: So Cal and So Oregon
Posts: 2,167
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I tried to install the new 930 air duct for backdating heat, but that piece hits the oil line to the tensioners on the left hand side. There is no way it is going to work...
![]() So I went back to cutting and removing wire in the frunk for systems I don't want/need: ![]() I think I am done removing wiring up front. I am waiting for some new fuse and relay blocks to start putting it back together. I still have a few wiring looms to remove int eh cockpit. That will be next. |
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Registered
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: So Cal and So Oregon
Posts: 2,167
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I am spending a lot of time in the wiring end. Here is a thread related to my recent work relocating the battery and the fuse block:
battery relocate = fuse box relocate? |
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Registered
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: So Cal and So Oregon
Posts: 2,167
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While still working the wiring issues on the other thread, I finally got the parts I needed to finish by heat backdate. I got some 2.5" diameter SCAT, a 3" long 2.5" diameter aluminum pipe and a silicone reducer 2.75" to 2.5" to interface with the heat exchangers. It is a tight fit, but it all works - so far.
![]() ![]() Once I finish the wiring, I will drive it for a while and then tackle the steering and suspension. |
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Registered
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: So Cal and So Oregon
Posts: 2,167
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As I finish up the wiring (hopefully this weekend), I also wanted to change the oil (Rotella T6) and close up the holes left when I removed the A/C hoses. I found some sheet metal screws at the Home Depot (lower right in photo) that incorporated a galvanized washer with neoprene sealing washer. One box of 100 was less than $10. I took the washers off an used them under the original clamp screws (top in photo). That should do the trick.
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Registered
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: So Cal and So Oregon
Posts: 2,167
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Okay, I finished the electrical system update yesterday. I opened a new thread more appropriately named regarding my electrical system experiment. It ican be found here:
Updating most of the electrical system - an experiment I washed her, changed the oil and took her for a drive for the first time in about 4 months. What a thrill! Everything is working great. Time for a Rogue Hazelnut Brown Ale, followed by a Black Butte Porter, followed by... ![]() ![]() ![]() I still have a lot of work to do, but everything I have done works - the backdated heat, the oil leak fix, the new engine mounts and crossmember, the new electrical system. I am a happy camper. I am debating whether I install the H4s now or start working on the targa polish/install, door and targa seal install. Hmmm....the beer comes first. |
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Science is NOT optional
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: West and further west
Posts: 1,972
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Quote:
H4's for sure. Fun, fast, remarkably better looking. Pretty much plug and play. Then more Black Butte.
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PCA member since 1993 |
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Registered
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: So Cal and So Oregon
Posts: 2,167
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Registered
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: So Cal and So Oregon
Posts: 2,167
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Thanks for the recommendation. I also have MA Shaw near me so I will add them to the selection process.
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Registered
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Small mirrors, add the chrome small opening quarter windows and trim, maybe an early wing and you can join the club.
Exact location of chrome mirrors
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78’ SC 911 Targa - 3.2SS, PMO 46, M&K 2/2 1 5/8” HEADERS, 123 DIST, PORTERFIELD R4-S PADS, KR75 CAMS, REBEL RACING BUSHINGS, KONI CLASSICS |
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Registered
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: So Cal and So Oregon
Posts: 2,167
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Exactly!
Oh, and caster wheels up front? |
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Registered
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: So Cal and So Oregon
Posts: 2,167
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Did someone say H4s?
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Registered
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: So Cal and So Oregon
Posts: 2,167
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I had a few hours to burn today so I started with polishing my now unpainted targa bar using 3M fine "0" synthetic steel wool:
![]() ![]() It turned out pretty good. I think it will be easier to polish now once it is reinstalled. I put some 3M 4718 foam on top of the targa structure. ![]() then I POR15-d the vent areas that rub against the targa bar and installed new targa top alignment pin socket seals: ![]() Finally I started working on my replacement water catch and fresh air vent system. When you remove the fresh air blower this front hood vent is wide open to allow air and water to come in. I found that a section of ABS drain pipe can be cut to fit perfectly within the orginal front vent duct channels. Now I have to cap each end and come up with drains and a possible fresh air vent path....hmmm... ![]() Last edited by SpyderMike; 04-10-2015 at 06:48 PM.. |
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Polish the bar now while it's off, once it's on its to hard to get the edges. You can use rubbing compound and then polishing compound with an electric polisher and be done in a couple of hours.
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78’ SC 911 Targa - 3.2SS, PMO 46, M&K 2/2 1 5/8” HEADERS, 123 DIST, PORTERFIELD R4-S PADS, KR75 CAMS, REBEL RACING BUSHINGS, KONI CLASSICS |
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