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Oh, I am busy ordering body parts now...steel front bumper is in hand, steel rear RS bumpers are on order. I am now hunting steel fenders.
Old 09-06-2015, 03:08 PM
  Pelican Parts Technical Article Directory    Reply With Quote #61 (permalink)
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Just got the two rear bumpers from Porsche. They look well made. They weigh in around 9 lbs each.



















Old 09-16-2015, 02:13 PM
  Pelican Parts Technical Article Directory    Reply With Quote #62 (permalink)
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Excellent work, thanks for sharing. The impact bumper clearly saved your car from much worse damage when it was hit. I am starting to think twice about using my fiberglass rsr bumpers...one small hit and the car will be totalled.
Old 09-16-2015, 03:22 PM
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Thanks! I got hit twice in this car...both times from the rear. That pushed me towards using steel parts for the impact points - bumpers and fenders. I might use a fiberglass hood though.
Old 09-16-2015, 03:37 PM
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Okay, I have been slacking long enough. I am back near the car now and can start working on it. I made a small bracket for the Emergency Flasher switch to tuck up under the dash at it's normal location. Pictured here are the card stock template, the prototype which I bent in the wrong direction and then bloodied my two fingers rebending only to destroy it, and the final version. It sandwiches in between the Rennline dash and the car's original.

Old 10-27-2015, 04:32 PM
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Next item is to start removing rear bumper and see what I need to do to get these new bumpers on.
Old 10-27-2015, 04:33 PM
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Finally the switch is installed. I had modify the wiring at the switch a little as it was blowing a fuse. Further investigation shows that this new Emergence Flasher switch I got is wired slightly differently.

Here is the schematic from Hella for the new switch:



Comparing old and new schematics it looks like socket wire 31 needs to be relocated to position 58 according to old switch designations (or 30b switched to 31 according to the new switch designations), then wire 49 need to be jumpered with 30b according to the new switch designations.

Lastly, the wire with diode going to position 58 (old designation) is no longer needed. Cap and stow this one. This wire looks like it lit the switch when the headlight switch was pulled out.

From low looking up under the dash:


and from closer to a normal seated position:

Last edited by SpyderMike; 10-29-2015 at 10:41 AM..
Old 10-28-2015, 01:51 PM
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Hi Mike,

Your project is coming along! I am doing another car myself and wanted to do something similar with the dash, question though, what did you do with your hvac controls? I am keeping defroster in this one and adding a/c so I will need the control board. Would it be easy enough to cut it in?

Thanks
Dave
Old 10-28-2015, 09:47 PM
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Dave,

I got rid of my HVAC only keeping fresh air and backdated heat. The dash controls should be easy to cut in. If you keep your glove box and just update with the aluminum and basketweave, they make pieces already trimmed for HVAC controls.

Mike
Old 10-29-2015, 10:36 AM
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Ordering interior carpet and vinyl very soon - getting the final quotes now...
Old 10-29-2015, 10:40 AM
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So yesterday I spent about 3 hours removing the rear of the car - that is chronicled in this thread:

Rear Bumper Removal Process - 1985 3.2

Here is the result:




Now I have to find a way to attach the new backdate bumpers to this chassis at these points:



Last edited by SpyderMike; 10-30-2015 at 04:10 PM..
Old 10-30-2015, 04:06 PM
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There are several ways, there was a thread a few months about this, fitting the required captive nuts to mount the same way as the original.

I had a different situation, having bought rather damaged SWB rear bumpers and had to modify them heavily to fit, but ended up using the original mounts with the modification occurring in the bumpers themselves.

Not sure if you want to do all this, but I thought I would not mess up your thread with my stuff, so here is the link.....if you want more pictures let me know, I can do that pretty easily.

Fitting 6 speed G50 to '89 Carrera

I know that if I were you, I would mount as per original stock, after shaving off that short hood rear bumper stuff.

Hope this helps

Dennis
Old 10-30-2015, 05:31 PM
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I see you did create quite the modification, thanks.

I have been looking for pictures of stock mounting locations on an early car, but have come up short so far. Still looking....
Old 10-30-2015, 05:40 PM
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I finally sucked it up and started cutting metal. I had to wrap my head around the idea that it is going to get uglier before it gets prettier.

So I had to drill out 27 spot welds to get the reflector panel off. I used a Harbor Freight $4.99 spot weld drill bit and it worked great (I have a new Harbor Freight store about 10 minutes away from me). I actually drilled through in a couple of places:



I don't see how you can't. The only issue with this is that the bit was too short to clear the horizontal of the reflector panel, so the bit was biting at an angle. This caused it to walk. I would mark the centers of the spot welds then drill a small pilot dimple. The spot weld bit has a spring loaded center punch that will stay in the pilot dimple and prevent walking.

The two spot welds on each side are larger and I had to drill those completely out.



I then pried the top edge of the panel to pop all of the top welds. After that I sliced the reflector panel in two down the center and pulled each out while working the side welds. I had to use a grinder to cut the welds between the panel and the sides. All in all it came out pretty clean. The top corners have some kind of filler in there which I will need to get out.



The Dansk replacement center panel seems to it fine.



I will need to relocate my muffler bracket bolts further under as they touch the center panel now in their present location.

There is no edge or any surface on the body for the center panel to attach to. I guess it rests under the vertical edge that the spot welds are on. So these spot welds will need to be removed and cleaned up.
Old 11-13-2015, 08:42 PM
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I then spent a couple of hours trying to slowly trim the left bumper trying remove interference and to salvage as much metal as I could. In the end, despite some pretty elaborate cuts, the best fit was a straight vertical cross section sliced through parallel to the rear of the car. I am close to where it needs to be, I think I will trim maybe 1/4" more off. I want to keep the one spot weld to the cross brace if at all possible (see the red marks in this photo).



I think this will remove all interference with the bumper shock mount area.

The profile of the bumper fits the car pretty well.



I think the forward chrome bumper end cap will be needed to bring the bumper front surface even to the front surface of the wheel well.

The outside edge of the bracket that I cut (blue line in the above photo) is nearly parallel and lines up with the outside edge of the bumper shock mount hole bracket.



I think a single adapter plate (or maybe an offset stack) will work. Two bolts through the adapter and into the bumper bracket, and two into the bumper shock bolt holes.

I will trim this bumper to my new red trim line and clean up the edges. I will then make a prototype adapter plate out of aluminum to see what it will look like.
Old 11-13-2015, 08:47 PM
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Speaking of backdating, found this on You Tube:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WJx7fqR9ox8
Old 11-13-2015, 10:24 PM
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Okay, after making a bazillion templates out of wood and aluminum, I finally started cutting steel and cleco-ing up the adapters. Here they are installed loosely - I still need the front of the rear bumper attachment tubes, and to bolt it all up with seals in place.





Last edited by SpyderMike; 11-23-2015 at 07:21 PM..
Old 11-22-2015, 12:23 PM
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Dude the bus is tit's!!!! good job on the back date also!
Old 11-23-2015, 04:46 PM
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Thanks! I think I have had that bus for over 10 years. It's a 1971 tin top Westy.

Well today I final drilled and bolted them in place and everything fits great. Whew. Waiting for the tube supports for the front ends of the rear bumpers. Just got the bumper seals in too.
Old 11-23-2015, 07:25 PM
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Starting on the vinyl replacement for the B Pillars now. Ordered replacement foam and vinyl from Lakewell along with the squareweave carpet. The first task at hand was removing the old foam and glue off. The used 3M74 to put the new foam on and trimmed to fit:

Then I use contact cement on the backside of the edge of the car channel and put a strip of it on the corresponding back edge of the vinyl:


And then I tacked the two together using a clean popsicle stick and lightly clamped them together using popsicle sticks and clothes pins:


Tomorrow I will spray 3M74 on the foam and back of the vinyl and tack it down. I will then use the contact cement, popsicle stick, clothes pin method on the other edge. Lastly, I will trim excess with an Exacto knife.

I am debating whether I pull all the old heavy sound insulation from the rear or not...I am still not decided.

Here is a shot of a new carpet piece - charcoal squareweave:

Old 01-18-2016, 09:25 PM
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