question about replacing oil return tubes

[tirwin]

Need to do this job and the engine is sitting on a palette on the floor -- not on an engine stand. I have the lower valve covers off doing some inspection and was thinking it would be a timer saver to do it now versus after I get the engine back in the car.

I've never seen anyone attempt this. Can it be done this way?

It's not a big deal if the answer is no. Just curious.

[The cap'n]

No. You have to access them from the bottom of the engine. They do not come out through the valve covers.

The Cap'n

[john walker's workshop]

easy enough to do it in the car.

[tirwin]

Duly noted. Thanks!

[The cap'n]

Do yourself a favor. Buy the factory style steel collapsible oil return tubes, not the aluminum aftermarket type which are prone to leaks. Be sure to install them in the correct orientation, with the inner tube positioned outboard.

The Cap'n

[tirwin]

Nuts. I already bought the billet aluminum from Pelican.

[The cap'n]

The term "billet" indicates the part is machined from a single piece of metal. In this case, maybe two. As these units are pressed together, the flange installed on the tube, the term is misused. They frequently leak between the tube and the pressed on flange that holds the seal. Not all do, but I used to have a pretty good sized box of leakers for the scrap metal guy.

The Cap'n

[964TargaC2]

I have been using the billet aluminum (Rausch and Spiegel) that I got from Pelican for a number of years, they are true one piece (no pressed on flange) and I have had no issues with them..When I bought them they were about $26 bucks each..now about $50..I would still go with them regardless of price..

[The cap'n]

I'm good with that. I quit using the Aluminum ones probably 15-20 years ago when I first discovered the leakers. Nice to know there's a better version available. I see they're nearly half again as much as the OE style, which is kind of a downer ...........................

The Cap'n

[tirwin]

The Rausch and Spiegel are the ones I bought. Whew!

[boyt911sc]

Tim,

Do yourself a favor by putting your engine back on an engine stand and do the installation before getting the engine back to the car. While it could be done with the engine installed (done it before), it does not make sense to do the installation later. BTW, that's a good brand you bought. Do they have the green or red o-rings?

Tony

[tirwin]

Tony,

Green o-rings on the tubes. I have to order the red seals for the oil cooler too. It seems Pelican only carries the green ones now. I mention that only because I read bad things about the green seals on the oil cooler and the ones on the return tubes look very similar. Hope that's not going to be a problem.

My garage is chaos right now. We are doing some work on the house and it has become a staging area. I had grand plans that I was going to have all kinds of space to work on the engine and spread out but those plans seem to have been shot to hell for the time being. Tonight I was getting really frustrated because I couldn't get to my tools and everything is all over the place.

[timmy2]

The green ones are what you want on the oil tubes. Put a very light coat of Dow 111 grease on them by rolling them around in your finger tips and they should pop into place nicely.
I can't comment on the oil cooler seals as I know I had both red and green to use, but I believe I used the red ones.
Used the 111 grease on them too. A actually used it on all the rubber and viton seals I installed 3 years ago. No leaks yet.

[tirwin]

Thanks, Dennis. I read about using the 111 grease so I have a tube of it.

On a different note, I've been meaning to ask opinions on the crankcase breather gasket. Some people say install it dry and others say use a sealant. It seems like you'd want to use a bead of something on that one. Just not sure what would be best.

[CCM911]

I have used both and the plain-jane steel ones leaked. My aluminum R and S ones are just lightyears better. I think I have had them on for about five years now, and have experienced no leaks whatsoever. OP, you totally bought the right ones.

Originally Posted by 964TargaC2

I have been using the billet aluminum (Rausch and Spiegel) that I got from Pelican for a number of years, they are true one piece (no pressed on flange) and I have had no issues with them..When I bought them they were about $26 bucks each..now about $50..I would still go with them regardless of price..

[Discseven]

Originally Posted by tirwin

Tony,

Green o-rings on the tubes. I have to order the red seals for the oil cooler too. It seems Pelican only carries the green ones now. I mention that only because I read bad things about the green seals on the oil cooler and the ones on the return tubes look very similar. Hope that's not going to be a problem.

Tim... my old green rings. There's a technique to put the circumference apex of the rings where they do the most good... I forgot what that technique is. Perhaps someone else can chime in on that.

[Tidybuoy]

Originally Posted by The cap'n

Be sure to install them in the correct orientation, with the inner tube positioned outboard.

The Cap'n

This is a very good tip, which I never thought about. It makes sense as the oil flows down from the head to the engine and so you want to "layer" the tube so that when the oil passes from one half to the other, it's pouring out of the inner tube to the outer tube (similar to laying shingles on a roof). This will prevent oil from backing up or sitting at the split. Dang, now I have to go check mine.

[Tidybuoy]

Tirwin, you will find that it's very difficult to seat the tubes as it takes a lot of strength to seat them. I found that if I temporarily put two hose clamps at the center (one on each half), I can then use a large screwdriver to apply leverage and force the tubes into position. Basically, twisting the screwdriver between the two hose clamps will force the tubes apart and into position and the hose clamps act as something to brace against.