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I've been told to never use a non-impact socket with an impact wrench.

Since none of the wheel removal write up mention needing a special socket for this job,
For future readers who are bound to hit the same roadblock,
I'll post what I found for a 27mm shallow impact specialty socket here.

EDIT: Don't get the link above. Apparently, you can only use 12-point
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1986 3.2 911 coupe.

Last edited by sugarwood; 10-16-2014 at 07:41 PM..
Old 10-15-2014, 07:34 PM
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I was told years ago to never use an impact wrench on any steering column nut. I always just do it with a " ratchet, or breaker bar if it's really tight. No way you should need an impact for that.
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Old 10-15-2014, 07:40 PM
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Unfortunately, I don't have a helper to hold the wheel steady.
I really don't want to order "The Club", either.
I will give it a try this weekend, when the 27mm socket arrives.
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Old 10-15-2014, 07:48 PM
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[QUOTE=sugarwood;8308109]I've been told to never use a non-impact socket with an impact wrench.

You are not removing rusted exhaust nuts from a Chevy pickup, you are just using the impact tool to break the tension/torque of the nut really quick. You are correct that regular sockets can't take the rapid torque, but we are talking a steering wheel nut.
Old 10-15-2014, 08:02 PM
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Sugarwood- I removed mine the first time without the aid of a club or other's assistance. If you are mindful not to use the steering wheel lock as your counter to the force of the wrench it should work ok. There is a specific torque spec for reinstall (40 lbs I believe). Keep the nut a few threads on while you pull off the wheel. This averts you from customizing your face. Pack the socket with paper towel with a wad of blue painter's tape at the end. It makes the nut stick where you want it for reinstall instead of dropping out into the abyss.

Good luck

Will
Old 10-16-2014, 05:27 AM
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I have to add one other comment.

Don't use a impact wrench on the steering wheel nut. It simply is not necessary. The nut is not on that tight, it is not a lug nut. Use a standard 1/2 "breaker bar" to take it off. PUSH DOWN on the wrench and hold the steering wheel with your other hand. Do not pull the wrench up toward the windshield, it is too easy to smack the windshield.

I have taken my steering wheel off several times. It is very easy to do. No impact wrench needed.
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Old 10-16-2014, 06:09 AM
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You need a short 12 point socket with 1/2" drive, the 6 point don't work, because of the wall thickness, regardless metric or standard.

Like this one

27mm



Cheers
Engelbert
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Old 10-16-2014, 09:22 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OldSpool87 View Post
Sugarwood- I removed mine the first time without the aid of a club or other's assistance. If you are mindful not to use the steering wheel lock as your counter to the force of the wrench it should work ok. There is a specific torque spec for reinstall (40 lbs I believe). Keep the nut a few threads on while you pull off the wheel. This averts you from customizing your face. Pack the socket with paper towel with a wad of blue painter's tape at the end. It makes the nut stick where you want it for reinstall instead of dropping out into the abyss.

Good luck

Will
Yup, this is great advice. When I changed my wheel (the same kind you have), I used my 27mm deep socket and an extension. I used a breaker bar and rotated the bar so that I was pulling down on it to loosen the nut. I also used a 2x4 section with a towel over the end to brace the wheel so that I wasn't turning against the lock. I had to cut the 2x4 to length, but now I have a piece of wood in my tool kit called "911 steering wheel removal brace"

I didn't have any trouble retaining the nut, so I don't have any advice on making sure the nut doesn't go anywhere, LOL. I did make sure to loosen the wheel from the splines with the nut still threaded on. I have seen what happens to folks who pull and get a face full of steering wheel. Luckily, mine wiggled off pretty easily. I also put anti-seize on the splines and threads so that if I ever have to take off my wheel, I can do it without having to think about it much.
Old 10-16-2014, 10:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rothaus View Post
You need a short 12 point socket with 1/2" drive, the 6 point don't work, because of the wall thickness, regardless metric or standard.

Like this one

27mm



Cheers
Engelbert
I installed our host's wheel bushing replacement a few weeks ago. I bought this exact Kobalt socket at Lowes and it worked great with a short extension and u-joint. The socket's walls fit the narrow hole exposing the wheel nut. I tried an impact socket first, but its OD was too large to fit through the hole.

I torqued it to 50 ft lbs, per Mitch Leland/Pelican's instructions.
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Old 10-16-2014, 03:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rothaus View Post
You need a short 12 point socket with 1/2" drive, the 6 point don't work, because of the wall thickness, regardless metric or standard.
Ok, I'm 0 for 2.
Looks like I'm gonna build up a small 27mm socket collection...

I do not live near a Lowes, so I'm back to square one.
Anyone know where I can order a 12-point 27mm short socket ?
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Last edited by sugarwood; 10-16-2014 at 06:00 PM..
Old 10-16-2014, 05:37 PM
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I found one pretty quickly on AmazonPrime. 9.99 shipped
Old 10-16-2014, 06:35 PM
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You know you can actually "control" an impact wrench. People act like impact wrenches are some kind of crude uncontrollable device that will ruin everything it is used on. I would not tighten a steering wheel with an impact wrench, that is a completely different operation, but using an impact wrench to hit the nut once or twice to break the tension does no damage. Some people would not use air tools on the car at all... To each his own...
Old 10-16-2014, 07:31 PM
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Will is dead on with his suggestion, I used some tape to hold the nut steady to get it threaded back on the steering column...be careful, you do not want to cross thread this. When I was re doing my steering wheel I got pretty good at getting it back on so long as the nut was snug inside the socket. BTW, really don't need an impact wrench...I just got a good sized socket wrench and held the wheel steady.
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Old 10-16-2014, 08:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sugarwood View Post
Ok, I'm 0 for 2.
Looks like I'm gonna build up a small 27mm socket collection...

I do not live near a Lowes, so I'm back to square one.
Anyone know where I can order a 12-point 27mm short socket ?

Sorry, forgot to add that I use one of these extensions with the wobble drive, where the socket can move a little, so I don't need the u-joint.

Hope this helps

Cheers
Engelbert
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Old 10-17-2014, 05:13 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sugarwood View Post
Ok, I'm 0 for 2.
Looks like I'm gonna build up a small 27mm socket collection...

I do not live near a Lowes, so I'm back to square one.
Anyone know where I can order a 12-point 27mm short socket ?
Got an ACE hardware nearby? They stock Craftsman now.
Old 10-17-2014, 09:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sky1jord View Post
Got an ACE hardware nearby? They stock Craftsman now.
+1 Craftsman socket fits. Just did this recently and ran into the same problems you did with the HF hardened deep socket.

Followed all the suggested tips here and worked great... (blue tape between socket and nut on reinstall, do not force against the steering wheel locking mech - turn key in ignition for freewheeling, create a brace against the floor of the car with wood or brute strength resistance,...oh yeah, and replace with MOMO. )
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Old 10-17-2014, 12:09 PM
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The 2nd socket was also too large.
While it looked like it would fit around the nut itself, this one also doesn't fit inside the tiny cavity

I'll order this one next.

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Last edited by sugarwood; 10-17-2014 at 09:23 PM..
Old 10-17-2014, 09:21 PM
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Am I just plain stupid or is it a major issue to just remove the three nuts holding the plate that is blocking the socket? No impact needed, hold the wheel between your legs turn left to remove the nut, remove the wheel and believe it or not your done. I can remove my wheel in no less then five minutes. This thread just makes no sense to me. Sorry for being blunt but your not removing the engine.

Ernie 81 sc

I'm ready for the flames!
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Old 10-17-2014, 09:38 PM
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Are you saying you remove the plate?
That's strange, b/c the numerous how-to wheel removal sources I read prior to starting, not one mentioned anything about dismantling the plate.
Besides, those tiny bolts look like they'd need their own specialized ultra thin wall sockets to gain access.
No way a standard socket slides into that tiny gap.

I prefer stick to the standard method of removal, before causing more potential problems.
Unfortunately, it takes a very specific socket.
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1986 3.2 911 coupe.

Last edited by sugarwood; 10-17-2014 at 10:09 PM..
Old 10-17-2014, 09:48 PM
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I might be looking at your photo wrong but I would insert the socket the right way

I have a 81 sc and do not have the plate seen in your photos but I have pulled my wheel more times then I can count. Off and on in no longer then five minutes, by that I mean just yanking the wheel
Ernie
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Last edited by emac; 10-17-2014 at 10:08 PM..
Old 10-17-2014, 10:01 PM
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