Pelican Parts Forums - My new build, the last of a long but very FUN journey!!!

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Well as far as driving it goes, she made the Porsche Corral in the Rolex 24 at Daytona and Sebring this year. We also did the Festival of speed, Porsches in the Park in Sarasota and numerous cars and coffee trips. I drove her every chance i got. Not to mention from St pete to the Miami area twice. I love nightime drives across our long bridges here locally. I didnt have the nerve to track it yet but it will be tracked once i get it back from Mike Bruns now that the suspension will be up to snuff along with the MAJOR power increase. I would like to get it clear wrapped but man they want like 4-5k for that on this tiny car. I can have the front end and bumper repainted for like $1k or so if it becomes chipped up real bad. Anyway, trust me when I say the car does and will get driven and driven like it should!

Quote:

Originally Posted by nippy (Post 10088167)

I would like to get it clear wrapped but man they want like 4-5k for that on this tiny car. I can have the front end and bumper repainted for 1k or so if it becomes chipped up bad. Anyway, trust me when I say the car does and will get driven and driven like it should!

Sweet car!

I had my new (fiberglass) SC/RS front bumper/valance clear wrapped recently right after paint. $800.00in L.A. Very slight color change from the wrap, GP White, otherwise undetectable. I haven't put enough miles on the car yet to see how the front wrap holds up.

Tip - if you are going to do it, do so before you drive it. My rear fenders, well the part normally covered by the Turbo shark fin, were clear wrapped after a couple of hundred miles and they were already pitted a bit. Bad news - the wrap shows evertyhing under it. But, good news - I haven't seen any new chips on the rear with around more 2,000 miles on the car.

Thanks Rfloz,

Appreciate the tip. I have the shark fins on my T-Look and prefer the clean look, for awhile at least.

Wasn't sure how important it is to clear wrap the area.

I'll do it as soon as I remove the fins. Saved me some heartache.

Scott

CANT WAIT TO GET HER BACK! DAYTONA IN JANUARY!

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1530235284.JPG

Got me renewal offer rom Rolex 24 at Daytona yesterday. Cant wait, just as a reminder, check out these couple pics. Great color combos...If that's not the best speced 991 Turbo ever, I don't know what is!

Luke, I am your father!

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She's a roller again. Full front and rear suspension upgrades are finished. So we had the opportunity to get her to a paint shop and get that engine bay taken care of. It drove me crazy when people asked to see the engine and the engine bay was grand Prix white. Not anymore!

back on the ground

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http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1531783516.JPG

Engine bay clean up B4 and after. Also cut off the sound pad tabs. No sound pad for me, I want to hear that 3.6 sing!

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Looks Terrific. This build has been oh so inspiring!

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jim Dunham (Post 10109725)

Looks Terrific. This build has been oh so inspiring!

Thanks Jim. I went up to the shop today to look at it. Came out real nice. I wont show another engine bay shot until it has something in it. :p

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1531851017.JPG

Here is the labor that was required to get the full suspension installed if interested.

FRONT SUSPENSION + BRAKES

Remove front struts to be sent out for complete rebuild and overhaul (weld in gussets, RSR bump steer kit, weld on lower bump steer support, Bilstein sport inserts, raised spindles 32MM, brake line supports, refinish in green)

Remove front lower control arms.

Remove brake calipers.

Install tarret through chassis front sway bar kit. Drill holes in chassis to accomodate bar + install reinforcement plates

Cut off original sway bar mounts on A arms. Grind & prep, weld new mounts on, + repaint A arms

Install new front ball joints into A arms.

Sand + epoxy rebel racing bushing sleeves onto A arms.

Install rebel racing RSR bushing kit (subframe was very oxidized, rear bushing would not fit, + had to grind out oxidation with dremel tool).

Install A arms into bushing housings + adjust shim packs to allow range of motion without binding.

Install hollow torsion bars, clean splines on end caps (left end cap seized to torsion bar, had to use torch + penetrating oil to remove

Remove strut tops from chassis, grind off rubber coating, press out factory rubber bushings, sand & repaint, + install monoball inserts

Install new bilstein front strut assemblies + rough in tie rod end bump steer shims

Replace front wheel bearings + seals.

Rebuild front calipers with new pistons, seals, + dust boots

Rebuild rear calipers with new pistons, seals, + dust boots.

Install front hubs, rotors, backing plates, + calipers.

Clean rubber coating off strut towers on chassis

Install strut tower brace.

REAR SUSPENSION + BRAKES

Remove rear trailing arms for powder coat.

Remove trailing arm bushings. Press in mono ball bearings.

Disassembled emergency brake shoes. (Found broken spreader in LR + cracked E brake plate). Weld plate + paint. Installed new Parking brake shoe spreader.

Remove rear wheel hubs + bearings. Install new bearings, reinstall hubs, + reinstall trailing arms onto car.

Reinstall E brake system on powder coated trailing arms + adjust cables

Install rebuilt rear calipers + rotors

Install speed bleeders into rebuilt calipers

Labor Flush brake system with Motul RBF 600

Remove torsion bars + spring plates

Cut off rubber bushings on new spring plates to accommodate rebel racing solid bushing kit.

Sand spring plate + epoxy steel bushing sleeve

Grind + prep torsion bar housing on chassis (must remove old rubber + paint to fit solid bushings). Epoxy solid bushings into housing

Install torsion bars + spring plates, shim rebel racing bushings for full range of motion without binding

Index torsion bars for rough ride height

Re install wheels

Yup a lot of work goes into getting the suspension right to keep it performing well for years to come.

One thing i'll add since it was pictured, I would not suggest using red synthetic grease on the spring plate mating surfaces like this

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1530289443.JPG'

Those two parts are not sliding back and forth between each other all the time. They're locked together with the pinch bolt and aren't supposed to move. I suppose if someone feels compelled to put some lube between the plates to let them slide better (like when adjusting height and they're under a bit of load) then I would suggest some dry film lubricant spray or some graphite. But you also need to consider that you want friction between the plates so they hold their setting

Keep up the good work on the build. The guys doing all the heavy lifting are doing a great job!

Ok thanks KTL, I will run it by my guys and see what they say. I appreciate the help as all this stuff is a learning process for me. cheers.

Spoke with Clint at Rebel and he said the same thing.

"Car looks great on the ground buddy! I’m outta town for the next week but you can skip the lube or grease between the plates as it’s not really needed. Ultimately that vertical screw is going to keep the spring plates from moving plus the pinch bolts so the grease shouldn’t be an issue but we normally don’t put anything there. I hope your motor is coming along well."

Yeah and I forgot to finish my thoughts and mention the grease is a big dirt collector. Over time you'd get a bunch of crud packed in there.

The key to Clint's plates (and Elephant's cool QuickChange set) is the pinch bolt just like the factory Porsche plates. The vertical bolt for adjustment keeps the plate from moving down, but it can still move up if the pinch bolt wasn't there. The original Sway A Way plates have no pinch bolt and I know from my own experience with them that the plates do move between each other when unloaded. I would see it move when i'd jack up my racecar and watch the rear suspension droop.

Plus I never really felt good about the load from the car resting on just that vertical bolt on each side. Seems like a lot of load to carry for just a small bolt and a welded block

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1426693420.jpg

Its going back on the lift tomorrow for the dust boots on the bump steer kit and we will get the grease cleaned up on the spring plates. Also will be doing air ducts from the front bumper to the brakes as the bumper has the intakes and fittings already. Wanting the guys to design a splitter as well because the car would start to lift at about 125MPH (close to as fast as the car would go) with the old 3.3. I'm sure the new motor from Mike Bruns will be pushing the car allot faster then 125.

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So when you use a GT3 crank you need a new crankshaft pulley (billet) and pulley bolt (makes sense). Thanks RothSport!

PS= The car already has the upper fan Rothsport outer pulley half.

(Pelican should offer this part as they do offer Rothsport pulleys, just not the GT3/air cooled part).

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