911SC Turbo

[tsuter]

Sammyg2, Souk's got the right picture from earlier. That's correct, the relocated Thermotime switch uses a new hole in the chain cover with the wires routed back across.
I got tired of it scrunched by the turbo inlet elbow too and you couldn't service it at all on the left. In fact I think it wore a hole in that elbow at one point.

[pjv911]

My kit is installed in its stock form and running aprox 8psi of boost. When first installed I still had 87 octane in the tank and without even readjusting my timing to compensate there was no pinging at all. I now have 93 octane and turned back the distributor just a crack in order to be safe. A plug check was done (on only 1 cyl) after a 0-100mph blast and the plug shows light brown. Bottom line is the CIS picked up the extra air consumpsion and compensated correctly . Thats how the turbo system was engineered. Unless your going to run higher boost nothing else is needed. At least thats how it worked out for me anyway.


Kurt Williams

[iamchappy]

Kurt are you happy with the performance gains or are you itching for a little bit more.

[pjv911]

Itching ? Funny you should ask . Have you seen my latest project ?
1969 coupe 2100lbs / 400hp = lotsa fun . See here.

part 1 http://forums.pelicanparts.com/show...ght=turbo+69%60

part 2 http://forums.pelicanparts.com/show...t=turbo+project

part 3 Project Turbo 69` part 3 Im getting there !

Read those treads and you will see what I mean. The turbo kit fell into my lap and I couldnt resist putting it on the car while in the middle of building the true beast.
BTW my best guess is that the motor(bae turbo kit) is putting out close to 300hp so yes im very happy with it. Car will likely go mid to high 12`s in this form. Not to shabby . It really works well with nearly no lag at all. The 7/31 R&P gears certainly help too.

Kurt Williams

[iamchappy]

Then my 914 which weighs about 2100 with the 3.0 sc engine with the Bae turbo and tranny with short gears should scare the hell out of me.

[pjv911]

Yea I would figure a normally aspirated 3.0 with short gears should be scary allready.


Kurt Williams

[iamchappy]

I would like my car to hold up against todays performance cars I think the turbo will help me achieve that. The NA 3.0 will run but I think it would have a hard time showing up a Boxster.

[pjv911]

0-100 will be no comparison . You car should be faster than any boxster . Thats before and after your turbo kit install . Ive driven both types of boxsters and they are not fast. Most rice rockets accelerate faster than the boxster.

Kurt Williams

[sammyg2]

My 1980 SC already has a hole drilled and tapped in that same place on the right side chain cover, unfortunately it has a factory temperature switch installed there, at least that is what PET calls it. I am assuming it is the temperature gauge sender but I'm not 100% sure on that one. I figured your engine was the same but it sounds like it wasn't.
Must be another one of those difference between the 1980 and earlier years.

Soooooo, I can't move my thermotime switch to that exact location without moving the sender that is already there.

It would prolly be easier to find a convenient place for the thermotime switch, it only ha to measure whether the engine is over 115 degrees or not. My bet is it would work in many places besides the timing chain cover. I may try to put it in a valve cover or something.

[tsuter]

Re: Temp sensor in the chain cover.

That is velly velly strange!

1978-83 located both the temp sensor and pressure sensor at the right side of the crankshaft pulley.
See picture.
So if yours is in the right chain cover, what is in the OE hole for the temp sensor under the pressure sensor?

[1980SC]

The oil temp sender has remained where it has always been, just right of the fan. The sender located in the right chain cover is there only on USA '80-83 cars. It's a sensor for the Lambda system.

-Rob
1980sc

[tsuter]

If its the NO temp sensor for the O-sensor (80-83) as Rob says, (to put it into closed loop operation when warm), then you will need it. Possibly the Thermotime can still be located adjacent to it or below it in the chain cover. It does stick in a bit.

[ohecht]

It is a sender for the closed-loop operation. I don't have my books with me, but I think it is called the 15 degree C switch.

I put a "superswitch" in there a few months ago that switches at a higher temperature, so the car stays in open loop enriched mode until a higher temperature. It is supposed to address the issue of rough running in the "transitional" range of 50-70 degrees F, when the car is technically warm, but runs better enriched.

Olivier

[sammyg2]

It's always something.
Today i fixed the oil supply hose and took the car for a spin. the boost comes on late and hard, but i didn't get to play with it very long, major smoke cloud.

After a bunch of investigating, the problem turns out to be I'm supplying oil to the turbo faster than it can drain out and it is filling up past the piston ring-type seal on the exhaust side. I really need to improve my oil drain system and maybe restrict the oil supply a little. I'm currently draining back into the lower valve cover and it is nearly horizontal from the drain on the turbo.

Question time:
1) What are you guys doing for your oil drain i.e. size of hose, routing, drain location etc. (maybe pics)
2) Is anyone using a restriction orifice in the oil supply line?

I'm also considering an electric scavenging pump but the ones I've seen must be made of solid gold (big $$)

[pjv911]

Mine goes directly into the chain cover. No problems at all.
If you have a sportomatic pump you can use that as a scavenge pump. They run off of the rear driver side cam similar to the early mfi.

Kurt Williams

[tsuter]

The oil drain hose is 5/8" about 3-3/4" long to the left chain cover. Make sure the oil inlet is at 12:00 o'clock and drain at bottom. The oil supply is restricted with a 1/8 pipe tee to -4 AN about 40 inches. Then a 1/8 connection to the bearing housing. The outlet to drain I believe is 3/8 to 5/8 hose end. The drain is 5/8 for sure.

[sammyg2]

Thanks.

[pjv911]

heres a picture of mine

Kurt Williams

[sammyg2]

I am seriously considering moving my drain point from the valve cover to the timing chain cover as you have it.
it isn't any lower, but it is shorter and won't be affected as much by hard acceleration.
All right, that's it. I'll do it. I assume you just pulled the cover off, drilled and tapped it? I don't know how thick the metal is on the cover but if you guys did it and it worked it must be thick enough.

I have the small steel block that bolts to the bottom of the turbo here at work, I'm looking into drilling the hole larger and welding in a piece of 316 stainless steel 1/2" tubing at a 90 degree bend and attaching a drain hose to it. That would effectively triple the drain area as it comes out of the turbo, then I just have to make sure it doesn't back up in the hose.

[pjv911]

For the cover modification I used a stepped drill bit that goes one step at a time wider as you drill. I then used a piece of 1/2 pipe with pipe thread(tapered thread) and screwed it into the cover with pliers till it was nice and tight. After that I put some JB weld epoxy on the inside and outside to secure a good seal. As of today there has never been a sign of leakage . Also I believe the hose diameter was 5/8. I used a piece of second hand power steering return hose from a japanese car so the diameter could have been 15mm but its close to 5/8 in any case. Dont not use standard heater hose it wont last(oil absorption) and its to close to your hot exhaust . You wouldnt want a ruptured hose while you cruising around a year later.

Kurt Williams