Clay - what material is on the firewall? And how is it holding up in use?

Exactly my point. 1st gear is still usable but from aggressive takeoff (not dropping the clutch) to redline happens very quickly as is before EFI ITB from Al. Not unusable (yet, ha) like Dan reported in his SC turbo upgrade. I'm going to do one of Al's kits because my car is kinda unique, want to make it more unique and I think it will make a difference. Plus he is an hour north of me and will be doing the installation, tune and overall will put a nice holiday package bow on his well prepared kits.

Thanks again for everyone's replies. Have a happy holidays, stay safe and be healthy.

Scott

My 964 is with Al right now having a Rasant ITB kit installed. We in the Seattle area are lucky he’s so close.

My car actually has a close ratio gearbox. We’ll see how it behaves with more power. I’m expecting it to be just more of what it currently is, which is a high revving canyon carver. Maybe a bit more mid range. If I’m rowing through the gears faster, well that’s the idea!

ITBs = Happy New Year......
 

More x-faktory RHD kits headed out........EFI = Happy New Year.....

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1609307967.JPG

regards,
al

Al,

What ignition options do you find work best with MS2? I’d like something plug and play but I am willing to do wiring if necessary.

-Steve

Went through all the posts again in this thread. I noticed dyno posts from a lot of engines with 3.0 or lower displacements. Who has dyno graphs of 3.2 engines with EFI ITBs that they would like to share? Would be great to see a before / after graph (like Al's 3.0ss post) with no other mods. Additionally, if you have SSIs on your 3.2 I would like to see those graphs also.

Thank you very much everyone, I really appreciate it.

Scott

Steve,
Greetings. I typically mod my MS2s to fire an MSD Streetfire. You can use your stock distributor to continue to distribute the spark, but the ECU controls the fuel and spark timing. Next step up from that is a crankfire/EDIS system......both work vey well.

My kits are as complete as I can make them and provide a great price/performance value....but "Plug n Play" is a little misleading for anyone's systems. These are aimed at the DIY market and while they do come with wiring harnesses, etc....they require mechanical installation and electrical termination of the harnesses and final tuning.....and while the kits come with a good start-up tune file, fine tuning is required........some folks head to the dyno, but the majority do it themselves with very good results.

regards,
al

I got a baseline dyno run today. AFR dotted line is 12.8 and looks great on all 3 runs. I asked Steve Wong what the AFR drop is at 5k through 5.5k (update, Steve W said this was because of my SSIs). My run data also confirms that the SSIs are too small for the 3.2 at the top end but I like the "torque backpressure" effect they generate with the early and flat torque numbers at takeoff, which is exactly what I'm going for. I'm really hoping I can get noticeable increases in numbers like this with Al's Option 2 kit. Even better would be numbers close to stevesc_us after he went with a kit from Al on a 3.2 with SSIs.

Fingers crossed.

Scott

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1609373302.jpg

Are you all using factory recommended plugs with your EFI ITB setups? Currently, I have Bosch WR7DC installed after my mechanic did a tune up a 1.5 years ago. Is this plug too warm for my 3.2 euro compression engine as the factory plug listed is a WR4CC (still available from Bosch)? They also list a WR4DP0 but that is an $18 platinum plug. What are the NKG equivalents? Any recommendations? Will the WR4CC be too cold with 92 octane gas (I try to get ethanol free whenever possible) when I have Al do his EFI ITB Option 2 kit on my car?

TIA,

Scott

With the SSIs I had on the 3.0 and a Dansk sport muffler - 2 in/1 out.

Goal was mid and upper improvements. Turn3 worked their magic.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1610666999.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1610666999.jpg

Will retune this year - now with M&K 2 in/1 out with a GT3 style outlets that can be capped. The GT3 outlets is basically wide open and far too noisy. I will add some basic baffles to the 2 outlets this winter - test my metal fabrication skills.

Just asking, when selecting to use DIY Triumph throttle bodies the 97-98 come with a metal fuel rail and the newer come with a plastic fuel rail. Finding the 97-98 ones are hard to find but the new ones appear to be plentiful. So what, if I get the later plastic rail ITB's can I replace the plastic rails with metal after market rails easily and what source would fit ?

I found two sets of the t595 Daytona itbs on ebay for about $125 ea when I did mine. They came with metal fuel rails and injectors so thats what I used. I had enough details on the injectors to set them up in the Infinity 506 and dial in my VE map.
They are out there if you search.

Thanks ... So does the Triumph setup have adjustable throttle shaft rods/linkages at each body or does the shaft run straight through all three with just end adjustment capability ? I have read this gives one the ability for finer tweaking of each ITB for that cylinder's individual dynamics when dialing in the whole setup.

I admit to no knowing anything about converting MC ITB's (triumph or otherwise) for use other than their designed intention. But, if you can't adjust the balance in each throttle you are leaving far too much on the table in terms of drivability and performance. Reminds me of the Hargett ITBs we did beta testing with many years ago.

Not to discount at all the value or the efforts of those that have adapted throttles from other applications. In fact, I tip my hat to those that think outside the box. However, there are a few good choices of properly engineered applications that work quite well with our engines for not unreasonable amount of dollars.

All 6 are individually adjustable to balance air flow. Check out Clay.0's ITB thread where he details the method to balance the ITBs.

you want more?
 

Next EFI/ITB install queuing up......with another kit getting assembled
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1613861001.JPG
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1613861001.JPG

regards,
al

Going from Triumph ITBs
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1613915254.jpg

To JSR Roller Barrel ITBs - yeah

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1613915677.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/support/smileys/wat6.gif

Those MSD coils are oil filled and should not be mounted in that orientation. They are designed to be mounted upright with the connections up top. You need the black 8222 high vibration coil (encased in epoxy) which can be mounted in any orientation.

Here is what can happen with the red coils mounted like what we see in this car:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/246885-my-911-fire-burning-msd-coil.html

Or do I need to be a professional engine builder/coil installer with years and years of experience to point this out? That's seems to be the requirement around here these days.....

I don't think that's a requirement.

Not related to ITB's, but when I got my '75 it had an oil-filled Bosch coil mounted upside down as those are. I believe it came from the factory that way. I know it was oil-filled because it was leaking...