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Question Replacing a drive shaft

A torn CV boot and some water got in there damaging the spline on the drive shaft so I'm replacing the drive shaft on that side. Just wondering if there is any safety or performance issues if I replace only one side leaving me with one drive shaft original and the other new (e.g. different weight).

Thanks!

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Old 06-29-2017, 07:45 AM
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Old 06-29-2017, 07:48 AM
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I had the same issue so I just replaced both. If one side went bad the other is not far behind


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Old 06-29-2017, 08:32 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by T77911S View Post
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Direct and to the point thanks!
Old 06-29-2017, 02:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Drymartiniwi View Post
I had the same issue so I just replaced both. If one side went bad the other is not far behind


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I'm also having the calipers restored plus a few other small items so I need to keep the cost down a bit where I can ( in case the wife sees the Visa bill) 🙂
Old 06-29-2017, 02:26 PM
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I am just South of you and can give you a pair of axles for cost of shipping. To be clear these are only a pair of shafts. PM me if interested.
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Old 06-29-2017, 02:58 PM
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New boots, gaskets, bolts and grease for the other side is pretty cheap. Repacking the CVs before they go bad is dirty work but cheap insurance.
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Old 06-29-2017, 03:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kohho View Post
I'm also having the calipers restored plus a few other small items so I need to keep the cost down a bit where I can ( in case the wife sees the Visa bill)


If she sees it just tell her your just trying to keep her safe. Calipers are not hard to rebuild. Just take your time and reference you Bentley manual to make sure and you also have a lot of backup on the forum.


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Old 06-29-2017, 03:52 PM
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New boots, gaskets, bolts and grease for the other side is pretty cheap. Repacking the CVs before they go bad is dirty work but cheap insurance.
True enough - this would definitely be a good time to do it. Had a look at your car, looks great, love those sport seats!
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Old 06-29-2017, 07:08 PM
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check the rubber lines. if they look cracked or dried out replace them. they DO go bad
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90 B2200[] RUNNING:[_] NOT RUNNING:__2000 MER E320 WAGON [_] WRECKED:[]RUNNING:
Old 06-30-2017, 03:41 AM
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If you're already in CV grease mayhem you may as well inspect the other side. Be prepared to find pitting by having one or two new CVs on hand. I found one of mine damaged.



If they all look good you could swap sides to even out wear. Definitely read the ultimate CV thread Reconstructing Constant Velocity (CV) Joints

Good luck




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Old 06-30-2017, 04:11 AM
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Does that nick photographed above have any real impact?

A large metal ball bearing slides through that big groove,
so it seems like a tiny nick would be totally moot.

The first photo nick seems like it would have no impact, but the 2nd photo looks like a bigger chunk.

The only scenario I can think of would be the nick being so big that the ball no longer rolls smoothly over the "pothole"
Then maybe you'd hear a sound? Or it would start to wear the ball away?
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Last edited by sugarwood; 06-30-2017 at 07:54 AM..
Old 06-30-2017, 07:50 AM
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That nick is the sign of a metal casting flaw because you can see some depth in it. The wear around the nick will progress sort of quickly because the hardening in and around the nick has been compromised.

Also the picture showing the nick is an example of a CV that has been "flipped" or run in both directions on the car. In other words the axle was run on one side of the car and then removed and run in the other direction, most likely by installing it on the other side of the car. The telltale sign is the wear pattern on both sides of the race. An axle that has been run in only one direction will have the wear pattern on just one side.

It's usually the race that wears and the balls look fine. The balls are hard chrome coated and most often look just fine even if the race shows some major wear or pitting. That said, I just did the re-grease and re-boot job on a set of 2001 dated Carrera 108mm CV axles and the races look fine with just some typical wear. But one CV had the set of all six balls were scuffed (could feel the roughness with a fingernail) in various locations around the periphery. So I sourced some used balls from Pelican member Tom Butler to "rebuild" the axles as best I could.
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Old 06-30-2017, 08:27 AM
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I agree that inspecting the other side is a good idea. But your problem was rust in the splines due to a boot cracked probably for a long time. Thrifty as I am, I'd replace that shaft. But absent damage to the other shaft, no need to replace it. They do break, but can also last a long long time. I've got the original '77 splines in my updated to SC spec car, and they've yet to break despite heavy DE and racing. Lots of CVs changed (if you can feel an imperfection in a race, replace, and that is a big hole through the case hardening), but never an axle.
Old 07-01-2017, 05:47 PM
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Carl - PM'd you but want to update here that two very nice axles are on the way. Your patience will be rewarded!

Did not lose anything in the fires here in the NW btw but they certainly did distract us for a bit!
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Old 07-17-2017, 10:06 AM
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Patience WAS rewarded - thanks Jdub!

absolutely perfect! Can't wait to install - I might even do a short video if I feel inspired. Thanks again Jdub, I owe you one! PM me the shipping cost and I'll reimburse

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Carl - PM'd you but want to update here that two very nice axles are on the way. Your patience will be rewarded!

Did not lose anything in the fires here in the NW btw but they certainly did distract us for a bit!
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Old 07-19-2017, 09:52 AM
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once it starts get them out, coz the metal went somewhere and will just start chewing up even more.
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Old 07-19-2017, 10:26 AM
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Replacing a drive shaft

I am in the middle of this project. All races show significant wear and damage. Multiple divots on the tracks, visible and when running your finger in the grooves of the outer race. All units are dated with two manufactured in "77" and two in "84".






Spider gears also show divots and gouges

Found this little nugget when cleaning the shafts. Surface rust and pitting where the boot is suppose to seal to the shaft.




If I clean this area up and seal it via paint or powder coating, should I be good to go?

Cheers


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Last edited by bugstrider; 08-27-2017 at 10:37 PM..
Old 08-27-2017, 10:33 PM
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Yep that shaft will seal fine I think
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Old 08-28-2017, 11:49 AM
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Replacing a drive shaft

Thanks KTL,
Cleaned and coated.



Here is another question regarding the lock washers. I have sourced some washers that are a little different dimensionally than the factory ones. My question is that will the size make any difference regarding the bolts.

Here are the differences-

OEM thickness


New


OEM OD


New OD


New ID


OEM ID


OEM


NEW


Thoughts?


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Last edited by bugstrider; 09-18-2017 at 02:04 PM..
Old 09-18-2017, 12:13 PM
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