Another Oil Pressure Sender Replacement Thread with pics

[mthomas58]

So, I determined my sender was bad (gauge pegged at 5) and did research here on replacing. Several good threads on how to replace such as this one....

Question on replacing the oil pressure sender

While others have done this job without removing the A/C compressor & A/C bracket, I quickly determined that the working space was too tight so I decided to remove the A/C bracket which required removal of the muffler and heater tube. Total project time - approx 2 hours.

Not may pics on other sender replacement threads so here are a few....

New parts included the sending unit, crush washer and two crush washers on either side of the mounting block.



Working space too tight for my preference so I decided to make some room by removing the A/C compressor and bracket.




To remove the A/C mounting bracket there are a total of 4 bolts - two bolts on the lower part of the bracket below the tin, one nut to the left near the fan housing and one allen head bolt underneath that bolts into the piece near the fuel rail.

Old & New Sending Unit with Hollow through bolt


Mounting block in vise for sender removal. Attempting to do this in situ would risk damaging the hollow through bolt.




When re-assembling the oil line I found it helpfull to loosen the hollow bolts on other end of the cam line and the tensioner hard oil line to give some play at the fittings and prevent cross threading on re-assembly.

Done!

[mthomas58]

A few more pics.....

Prior to any parts removal under the tin

In this pic, the muffler strap bracket has already been removed.....this must come off to get to one of the A/C bracket bolts.

[Winter]

Thank you.

---

Tom '75 targa

[DRACO A5OG]

Hey Mark,

Fantastic Job!

I was wondering, did you replace the cam oil line or is that original?

[80-911SC]

nice work mark,
i need to clean my motor compartment up a little , yours is so clean looks like you could set your sanwich down while working on it , very clean engine bay ++2

[mthomas58]

Originally Posted by DRACO A5OG

Hey Mark,

Fantastic Job!

I was wondering, did you replace the cam oil line or is that original?

That line was replaced when I swapped the engine in June. While on the stand, I replaced the cam oil lines, fuel lines and assorted gaskets, seals and o-rings. I did not replace the crush washers on this project when I loosened the hollow bolts to get some wiggle room. I figured that since they did not have much age on them I might be able to re-torque without any leaks. So far, so good.

[911FASCINATION]

Good Morning Mark, Thanks for posting this-it hasn't come up yet but I'm sure it will-nice to have such clear photos of the process!

[bkreigsr]

resurrecting an old thread for a simple (?) question.
How does the plastic cap work on the sender wire?
There is a visable tab on the bottom, and what looks like 4 ears on the top, that are maybe acting as a strain relief?
Turning it clockwise and counter-clockwise does nothing for me.
I don't want to break it like I've trashed every one of the plastic sender disconnects on my Jettas.
BTW - my oil pressure is pegged at max as soon as the ignition goes on, so I'm assuming its the wire or the sender.
Thanks
Bill K

[KNS]

I'm curious about this as well, I'm used to the spade connector on the SC. On my 84 there is a round shaped connector but it does not have the "knurled" looking edges, how does this thing disconnect from the sender? On mine the wire was held on by one tiny strand and it broke when I simply touched it.

[john walker's workshop]

Originally Posted by mthomas58

Attempting to do this in situ would risk damaging the hollow through bolt.
/img]

or worse. check this thread. Broke of piece of metal, how to fix?

[DRACO A5OG]

Whoa that is crazy!

To the 2 Previous posters:

On the 3.2, Gently but firmly pull the snap over cover, that is all that it is, a shield to protect the connection from heat and the elements.

If it crumbles solder a bullet female spade of appropriate ID.

If the wire snaps/falls apart, re-solder it.

Clean the male connector on the sender unit and that's it.

and YES, if it pegs up then the connect has been severed or not make a solid contact.

[911Freak]

On my SC it has this cap, it is in fact threaded and screws down onto a male cylindrical part on the sender. When I tried to remove it and it just spun, the male cylindrical part that the cap screws onto ended up being broken. I had to replace the sender and the cap screwed onto the sender without issue. Hope that helps

[rtu0894]

does the host also sell the crush washers on the hollow through bolt? I can only find the one under the sender.

[steely]

This came up in the 86 PET - 900-123-101-30-OEM.

You need 2, item 47 in illustration 101-10.

[rtu0894]

found them. thanks

[huba]

From what I gather, if it pegs immediately -- loss of continuity . I checked the wiring by removing it from the sender and grounding it if it goes to zero the wiring is good and your losing continuity in the sender. Bad sender.

[DRACO A5OG]

+1

[bushle]

I know that this is a somewhat old thread, but I just read this and I am so glad that this site exists to help to keep me from doing dumb things. Thanks to everyone who contributes. My druckmesser is pegged at 5, so I may have a job ahead of me, but I won't crank on the sender with a crowsfoot, that's for sure. Thanks guys.

[kidrock]

Bushle, here's a link to a step-by-step procedure for this job (starting on post #49):

Question On Oil Pressure Sender

Tip of the hat to M Thomas and Sniff.

[bushle]

Thanks for the link and all the helpful pix. That's why this site is so great. I may get off easy as the wire connector kinda broke off when I looked at it. I may get off with some soldering repair. I shunted it with some test clips and it went to zero instead of five, so may have been busted wire. Fingers crossed.