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Germain's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 1999
Location: Michigan
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2.0L Engine reintsall :)

Hello, I'm reinstalling me 2.0L and have a few questions for everyone out there. Any help would be great.

1) Does it matter which way I plug the electrical wires into the injectors, sensors and such, I noticed they plug in either way.

2) On the main electrical line from the computer around the engine, there is a break off where 3 sets of 2 white wires come out. Where do these connect to? Also comming from that same break out, there is a thick wire with a 3 input connection, where does it go???

Thank you everyone for your help, perhaps I will get this car running before winter
Old 10-02-1999, 02:28 PM
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The three sets of double white wires (with three female terminals, right?) are the injector ground points. They attach to a three bladed, male, terminal that should be attched to the block with a case bolt. i.e. plug the three plugs into the brass thing sticking out of the block under the big black air distribution box, toward the flywheel.

The 3 pin connector is for the distributor fuel injection points. They should have small numbers in red or black written on them, usally within 1-4" of the white plastic connector. The numbers should be 21, 12, and 22. They corispond to the black plug at the bottom of the dizzy. The 22 is toward the driver the 12 is in the middle, and the 21 is toward the passenger. You can mix them up and the car still runs, but because two injectors are fired at a time, one set when the valve is opening, the other with it closed, I think it is important to hook it up right.

The two prong connector is either for the thermo time switch (looks like a temp sender) attached to the engine block with a small L-backet), or for temp sensor-I (air intake sensor), or for the cold start injector. Can't tell you right now, but to say none of them is important to the running of the car, the cold start only works with the starter running and if it is below 45-50F. And the Temp-I being dissconnected will just make the computer think the air is cold, so you'll run a tad rich. If you can't figure them out I can look at it tomorrow.

The injector plugs can go in either way, just make sure they are plugged into the right injector.
Old 10-02-1999, 03:42 PM
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Thank you, that completes the electrical wiring for the day. The only thing I'm concerned about is how do I make sure the plug are in the correct injectors??? (I never thought about that)

FYI, I need to put the CV Joints on, finish wiring the air hoses, and install new clutch, accl, and spedo cables and I will be able to drive my 914 for the second time ever! Its getting so close, and I have to thank everyone here for the help, I never could have done it without you.
Old 10-02-1999, 04:44 PM
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Again, check for the wire numbers on the wires. You can check the wiring diagram on this site (look on the main page or do a search) to see which wire numbers go to which cylinder numbers.

If you can't find the numbers on the wires, you can unplug the big connector from the ECU (brain) and use a continuity tester to check which wire goes to which pin on the ECU connector. The connector pins are numbered in order from one end (forget which end).

You can use the same techniques to figure out which connector is for the intake air temp sensor (Temp Sensor I), and which for the Cold Start Valve. The Thermo-Time Switch may only have one connector (74 or earlier) or two (75-76).

--DD
Old 10-02-1999, 07:52 PM
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"Again, check for the wire numbers on the wires. You can check the wiring diagram on this site (look on the main page or do a search) to see which wire numbers go to which cylinder numbers.

If you can't find the numbers on the wires, you can unplug the big connector from the ECU (brain) and use a continuity tester to check which wire goes to which pin on the ECU connector. The connector pins are numbered in order from one end (forget which end).

You can use the same techniques to figure out which connector is for the intake air temp sensor (Temp Sensor I), and which for the Cold Start Valve. The Thermo-Time Switch may only have one connector (74 or earlier) or two (75-76).

--DD"


Dave,

Thanks for this information. I'm going to need it when I reinstall my fuel injectors. I labelled mine when I disconnected them but then I removed the injectors completely when I realized that two of them were for a 1.7L (my car is a 2.0). I tested all of the d-jet electricals at the ECU plug but it didn't dawn on me that I could figure out the correct fuel injector connections by this method.

Alpine
(Alfred)
Old 10-03-1999, 11:58 AM
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Argh. Thats about all I have to say about this wiring stuff. I would very much appreciate some more help. Ok, heres the deal. I have no idea what some of the things sitting on the engine are. I have some wires that have been hacked at and replaced 2 or 3 times by the prev owner (I'm basing this on the color changes of the wire as it travels it's path) and there is no connector at the end of it. I am very unfamiliar with this, the only other car I did this work to was a 67 Mustang, and that was very simple. I got the 3 sets of white wires hooked up, but as for the other stuff... Sorry I'm at such a loss. Ok now that we all know where I'm comming from here we go.

1) JP said "The 3 pin connector is for the distributor fuel injection points". Where are these and what do they look like?

2) Is the control box located behind the battery control only the F.I. stuff?

3) I don't have any numbers on my wires, any of them. I think they are all worn off. So I unplug the wires from the control box behind the battery, and use that? Or am I looking for a differant switch.

4) I need to get all the air hoses hooked up too. I don't see too much of a problem getting that together right now, actually I beleive I have al the hoses connected correctly. The only this with this is I don't see how the air filter caings are orianted on top of the air intake.

Well, thats if for now. Please answer these like Im incompetant, I aveing the worse time here. Thank you in advance for all the help.
Old 10-03-1999, 02:10 PM
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Credit where it's due. These tech articles are what started me....

Dave Darlings Fi hose diagrams, a life saver

explains the basic fuel pump electrical connections

the be all, end all of D-jet help

PelicanParts EFI troubleshooting

Pelican Ignition Trouble shooting

Pelican wiring diagrams, for the main harness and the FI

With any luck this will help (and hopefully I didn't step on anyones toes with all these links). I also highly recommend the Lash International manual (if you can find it) along with the Haynes manual.

Oh, BTW
1. They are the small plastic black connector at the bottom of the dizzy. Toward the firewall, can be seen if you stick your head in the engine compartment.
2.yes
3.yes the whole plug comes off, first the grey plastic cover, then two small screws.
4. Link one is the "bomb, baby"


PO's have a way of hacking up wiring harnesses. Make sure all the wires are conductive, yes I know it is a pain, but do it anyway.
Look at the PP tech articles on how to instal a clutch, it also helps with the C-Vs.
Look at the PP catalog section for pix of the different components.

G vs. E is on,gotta go, "PEACE OUT!!!!"

[This message has been edited by JP Noonan (edited 10-03-1999).]
Old 10-03-1999, 03:43 PM
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I noticed you said "Replace the clutch" Well ya might want to un hook everything and drop your tranz/motor back out to replace before ytou start finishing everything else up. Its much easier to replace one out of the car rather than in the car.jUst my .02cents
Mike
Old 10-04-1999, 11:01 AM
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sorrry i see ya said cluch "cable" .Well neva mind me go ahead with what yiour doing.
Old 10-04-1999, 11:04 AM
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sorrry i see ya said cluch "cable" .Well neva mind me go ahead with what yiour doing.
Old 10-04-1999, 11:04 AM
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