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Registered
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 62
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Engine mounting question
Hey guys,
I've never mounted an engine on an engine stand before. I just pulled my 951 motor and I've got an engine stand, so my question is simply. How do I combine the two? My current plan looks like: 1) Pull the bell housing 2) Go get some super long bolts and washers 3) Mount engine to stand and use washers to offset as necessary Is this plan realistic? ![]() ![]() |
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Registered
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Ballston Spa, NY
Posts: 528
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Yes, pretty much on par. When setting up the stand adapter to the motor itself loosen the arms enough that they move easily, and adjust the positioning of the adapter in relation to the engine so that the main rotating pivot is closer to the center of the motor.
Some new folks tend to position the pivot along the center line of the crankshaft which is fine, but then when they go to rotate the motor so the oil pan is up they have 75% of the weight of the motor leveraging against them. I just try to position motors in stands so the motor spins in the stand in a balanced fashion ![]()
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Adam Hennessy |
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Registered
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 62
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So frustrating trying to find bolts! No bolt/fastener store is open on Saturday/Sunday, and most close around 5 on weekdays. When the hell am I supposed to get bolts? haha
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Registered
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Depending on the length of the tubes on your engine stand, the trick is to use the crossmember mounting bolts to secure the engine to the stand. You gotta take them off to get it out, and you gotta take it off the stand to put it back in, so they are never needed in 2 places at the same time.
If the tubes are really short then you'll have to take the clutch pressure plate off as well, and you may need some washers to space the bolts back, depending on how much of them are threaded.
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2010 Hyundai Elantra Touring, GLS 5 speed, Indigo Blue Metallic. 2.0L of Korean fury! Buy my parts! |
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Nobody Special
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: NorCal
Posts: 522
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As mentioned the X-member bolts are your best option unless you go on-line. I think you will have a very hard time finding the 12mm x 75 (1.5) at any local suppliers. The 12mm I found stocked at various places were all 1.75 pitch. I found out the bellhousing bolts are too short(55) or too long(90) for my new engine stand. Mine is mounted so the mass is fairly centered for a complete long block and it turns much easier.
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86 - 951 - Garrett dbb T3/T4R/Tial/Maxtronic -SOLD 91 - BMW 325 iX AWD, 5-spd Coupe, Lazur Blau Metallic-SOLD 86 - 951-K26/8, daily driver-SOLD 87 - 944S - Another daily driver-SOLD |
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Registered
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Ballston Spa, NY
Posts: 528
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Yes finding the right pitch bolts in proper length is difficult in most places. I purchase hardened threaded rods for my stands and use nuts on the backside of the stand adaptor. Beats fussing around finding bolts in the right pitch, then fussing with proper lengths because some holes are blind while others are bore through.
the x member bolts do work though if you're not using them at the moment, but from the looks of your engine stand adaptor I'd say removing the clutch and FW are going to be necessary in your case as the stub arms look way too short on the adaptor to clear those components..
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Adam Hennessy |
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Registered
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 62
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After I pulled the clutch and bellhousing I was able to mount it using the xover bolts just fine.
Thanks for the help! ![]() |
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Registered
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Chicagoland
Posts: 2,695
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do remember the first time u turn it upside down, there's still going to be some fluids inside. get that drip pan underneath
![]() and this is the perfect time to clean everything to a whistle. |
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