Carrera Suspension Update

[Joeaksa]

Very nice work!

[NoLift911]

Thanks - it's a slow go. I think everyone that gets involved in the projects realize that - but until you do...you have no idea what time commitment it is.

It's coming along. This board is full of some great projects.

[mnmasotto]

Fantastic Post! I love following these threads. I did this project a while ago but did not detail the car a good as you. ER certainly makes great stuff! I had the same problem with the rear brake rotor. Turned out the rotor was for a 993TT. No matter how much I indexed the rotor the wholes would not line up. Pelican sent me a 930 rear rotor and it went on no problem. Where is HMB, CA? Hermosa Beach? Where did you buy the Castrol Purple? Thanks Mark

[NoLift911]

Thanks - Yeah pretty sure those are TT rear rotors - I just drilled and tapped and it went fine. (2 drill bits later) I like to have the rotor still when I am putting the wheel on other than cramming it all together and tightening it with the lugs - just feels better.

Got the Castrol in a jug from HD - more econmical that way.

[RWebb]

Originally Posted by P-Dawger

...

I doubt I will reseal the strut tops - doubtful if the car will see rain - why else seal them? I can see if you drive in wet/slop but otherwise no need.

lay a line of dum dum (strip caulk) around each "hole" - it will not be seen and will give your car the ability to drive in more conditions, besides keeping dust & air out of the trunk

cost = $0.0005; time < 1 minute

also, there will be a future owner someday - make them happy

[NoLift911]

Thanks for the suggestion

[DW SD]

Originally Posted by RWebb

lay a line of dum dum (strip caulk) around each "hole" - it will not be seen and will give your car the ability to drive in more conditions, besides keeping dust & air out of the trunk

cost = $0.0005; time < 1 minute

also, there will be a future owner someday - make them happy

It then creates an issue when you align, however. Unless you get it nut$ on when you first install, which I did not.

I'd go without sealer. Six years my car is done and I'm not suffering from dust in the trunk. I've driven in the rain once or twice, when in a pinch.

Great job on this project!

Doug

[zippy_gg]

Originally Posted by P-Dawger

more...

Very clean oil lines! What did you use to get them so clean?
I am about to embark on the same cleanup job and address a small leak near the cooler (most likely hose connection) and replace the front hoses.
Did you drain the engine oil before taking the lines out? If not, how much oil is left in the lines and cooler so I can be ready with a drip pan? TIA!

[RWebb]

Originally Posted by DW SD

[dum dum] then creates an issue when you align, however. Unless you get it nut$ on when you first install, which I did not.
...

not sure what you mean - you can move it around for alignment with no problem

[NoLift911]

Originally Posted by zippy_gg

Very clean oil lines! What did you use to get them so clean?
I am about to embark on the same cleanup job and address a small leak near the cooler (most likely hose connection) and replace the front hoses.
Did you drain the engine oil before taking the lines out? If not, how much oil is left in the lines and cooler so I can be ready with a drip pan? TIA!

For the oil lines I used a brass wire brush on a die grinder and alot of patience. Castrol Purple stuff and citrus orange works good for the crud. One of those lines in the pic is new the others were polished. They come pretty clean with a little bit of work.

Yes empty both the tank and the sump - even then the lines are still full and the cooler also - it is pretty messy.

[NoLift911]

Originally Posted by DW SD

It then creates an issue when you align, however. Unless you get it nut$ on when you first install, which I did not.

I'd go without sealer. Six years my car is done and I'm not suffering from dust in the trunk. I've driven in the rain once or twice, when in a pinch.

Great job on this project!

Doug

Agreed - I am not using sealer of any kind.

[NoLift911]

Small update - had a buddy come over and used the second set of hands to good advantage getting the a-arms back in, t-bars and steering rack with spacers and got the ball joints in and torqued properly.

My a-arms don't have much droop, I guess once the struts get in they will force them down more. Where is a good place to start the indexing on the end caps?

Some pics -









Things should move a little quicker now. I need to do something with my hubs, they look pretty tired. Nothing wrong with the seals, bearings etc with only 33k on them so not sure the best way tp get them clean without getting media all over the internals.

[Flieger]

Rubber bushings do not let the A-arm droop. They are their own torsion bars in series with the metal ones.

[NoLift911]

Originally Posted by Flieger

Rubber bushings do not let the A-arm droop. They are their own torsion bars in series with the metal ones.

Right - yeah pretty stiff. So I was going to go with 4 and 8 oclock positions for each side and then do about 10mm showing on the adjuster bolt? I have blue loctite from the factory on my adjuster screw so that kind of plays in line. (where I get the 10mm from) I just don't want ot be on the extreme end of any adjustment before I button it all back up.

Also didn't notice any difference in the t-bars in terms of splines - obviously left and right but I put the writing facing out on both - didn't see any difference on the bars from one end to the other.

[DW SD]

Originally Posted by RWebb

not sure what you mean - you can move it around for alignment with no problem

dum dum strips I've used are STICKY. This prevents free movement of the camber plates against the sheet metal strut mounts, especially with the weight of the vehicle. Adjusting caster and camber is done with the wheels on the ground, from what I've experienced.

Not debating here. Apparently what works for you doesn't work for everyone.
If i were in the PNW, maybe I'd need to be more creative. That's not the case.

Sorry for the distraction to this impressive build thread.

Doug

[NoLift911]

Small update - got the struts in, t-bars, caps indexed, strut top plates, steering gear hooked back up, tie rods done, RUF sway bars in (23m front)...and what would an update be like without pics? So here are a couple...













So couple of questions - I tried to get my caps on the bars as close to 4 and 8 as possible, there does not seems to be enough fine adjustment in the splines so they are as close as I could get. Got about 10mm on the adjuster bolts...I guess i will see when it touches the ground where that leaves me and plan for some final tweaking.

On the strut top mounts what is a good reference point to start with for alignement - center the thing? No idea what position to tighten it down to.

Going to need some type of strut bar - my preference is for one of the weld in types, simple, straightforward and light. Not sure about the triangulated ones...opinions welcome - thanks.

[NoLift911]

Hubs cleaned, mounted and ready to go....hope to have the car on the ground by this weeks end.... We'll see if my sons agree/cooperate/let me do that......





So what's left - seems like everything. Need to get the horns on wired up, rest of wiring for front lights, clubsport valance mounted, chin spoiler, remove the rest of the wiring for everything that I "removed" (anyone know where the brake pad wear sensor lines run from the back to the front?)

Rear suspension, bars, plates, angle, SS lines all around, 23mm mc, shocks, sway bars, set ride height once on the ground....wow, this weekend might be tight - we'll see!!

[UrQuattro]

Question about the "dum dum" stuff.

Is that the same stuff as that black window caulking stuff that comes wound in a cardboard box? It's about maybe 3/8" - 1/2" thick (or somewhere in that area)?

Anyway, I'm planning on doing the full overhaul fairly soon, including replacing the upper strut mounts with a modified set that my friend has, with monoballs installed, and your chatter about the resealing of the upper mount.

Thanks in advance.

Michael

[NoLift911]

Sorry - not real familiar with the dum dum stuff but in my mind that might not be the best solution, witht he alignement settings etc.

If I was going to do anything I would simply use some black/clear silicone to seal up any areas that look to be exposed to the elements.

Personally it doesn't seem like a huge issue to me, but I won't be driving in the rain etc.

I guess the other part that I don't understand is with all the old 911's running around out there that have had their alignments and suspensions tweeks, that black gunk simply breaks iff in chunks and leaves the areas open anyway - when I removed mine it was clearly not sealed up "well" and I had no issues with anything getting into the trunk. Hence the non issue for me.

[NoLift911]

Okay little more progress, didn't get as far as I had hoped and ran into a few snags as is always the case - in any event got the brakes on, every looks good, did a wheel test fit, no rubbing etc.

Couple of pics (still trying to figure out the brake line routing...)