Will it work?

[A horse with no name]

Hi, I'm just going to replace the rear spring plate bushings.

Question: Would the following make the job of getting the right height easier. (I just want the stock height)

If I made a punch mark on the end of the torsion bar and outer bushing housing, including scribing the Spring Plate - When assembling with these marks won't the height be the same as when I started out?

[DRACO A5OG]

It is possible but really what you want to do is measure the angle of the plate prior to removing it. Upon install, make sure the angle is the same.

[rattlsnak]

once the spring plate is unloaded, take a scribe, or flat screwdriver, and simply place it against the top edge of the spring plate and then 'scribe' or scratch a line into the inner wheel well the length of the spring plate. When you put it back together, just line up the spring late with that line and it will be exactly at the same spot it was when you took it off.

[A horse with no name]

Originally Posted by DRACO A5OG

It is possible but really what you want to do is measure the angle of the plate prior to removing it. Upon install, make sure the angle is the same.

Hi Jim, I should have included your info. I do have a angle finder.
I have read numerous posts over the years re the indexing of these rear torsion bars but I have never read one where it was suggested to punch mark the end spline and the inner bushing housing for reassembling. To me it should work. I tend thought to wonder that with the numerous threads on the subject that it may not work.

This brings up another question. With the bushing worn, is the current spring plate angle the same as they were when new? - Or?

[rattlsnak]

How is punching the outer spline and the inner housing going to line up the spring plate onto the outer splines in the right spot? You may have a starting point, but you may also have to move the outer a few times to find the right angle. The point is, if you scribe it, you can tell within seconds of where you are without an angle finder. Just makes it quicker is all and yes, punching the inner will definitely save time!

[A horse with no name]

Thanks - I have read that this is what should be done for the spring plate alignment.
So do you think if the torsion bar spline matches it's original position by punch marking it, including the inner metal housing of the bushing, I should get...'Walla! - Done

Originally Posted by rattlsnak

once the spring plate is unloaded, take a scribe, or flat screwdriver, and simply place it against the top edge of the spring plate and then 'scribe' or scratch a line into the inner wheel well the length of the spring plate. When you put it back together, just line up the spring late with that line and it will be exactly at the same spot it was when you took it off.

[rattlsnak]

See above ^^

[A horse with no name]

Originally Posted by rattlsnak

How is punching the outer spline and the inner housing going to line up the spring plate onto the outer splines in the right spot? You may have a starting point, but you may also have to move the outer a few times to find the right angle. The point is, if you scribe it, you can tell within seconds of where you are without an angle finder. Just makes it quicker is all and yes, punching the inner will definitely save time!

I understand what you are saying but the punching is only to get the splines correct after removing and greasing them. Thanks for the insight. It just seemed to me, from what I have read, that the most have trouble getting the ride height where they want to. I wonder why they never made a mark so as to know where the splines and the bushing housing were so that they could adjust from that point. So in conclusion, am I right to think that the current spring plate angle is at where it was when new?... Thanks in advance!

[DRACO A5OG]

Originally Posted by A horse with no name

With the bushing worn, is the current spring plate angle the same as they were when new? - Or?

Good question, it should but the change would be very minor.

By turning the bushing you are trying to let the TB cap sit on the thicker unsued portion of the bushing, so it should raise the axis point, so the angle should change but I failed geometry class so I am the wrong person to ask. I am certain our many engineer members will chime in and correct me.

Is your angle gauge digital or analog? digital is preferred.

Take allot of pics Brother

[A horse with no name]

Originally Posted by DRACO A5OG

Good question, it should but the change would be very minor.

By turning the bushing you are trying to let the TB cap sit on the thicker unsued portion of the bushing, so it should raise the axis point, so the angle should change but I failed geometry class so I am the wrong person to ask. I am certain our many engineer members will chime in and correct me.

Is your angle gauge digital or analog? digital is preferred.

Take allot of pics Brother

Hi Jim, I have an analog angle gauge. Now if I had your $$$$

Yes, it would be nice if someone would be able to confirm whether the current angle is the original angle. In the morning I'm going to give Chuck a ring at ER, as I would think that he is thee guy that can answer my question. I will post what I find out from him on this thread so others, -> You especially, will get, as they say, the full skinny.

I never considered photo's. Thanks for the reminder; I will definitely to so.

[DRACO A5OG]

Also use this, compliments of Master Wil Ferch:

911 Spring Plate Angle Calculator

[A horse with no name]

Originally Posted by DRACO A5OG

Also use this, compliments of Master Wil Ferch:

911 Spring Plate Angle Calculator

Thanks!!!

[A horse with no name]

Hi all, I phoned ER and Chuck answered my question...The spring plate settings will remain as they were when new if they have never been changed. Of course, this applies to whatever setting that the spring plate's had prior to replacing the bushings.

He said that by centre punching (or whatever way) both the spline tooth, the inner metal bushing housing, including scribing the spring plate on to the fender well, will result in having exactly the same setting's as the car had when the bushings were new.

As mentioned previously, I think that it may be the thing to do for those who are lowering their car by having the correct point when starting to index the torsion bar's spline's...Thanks for your inputs! Much appreciated.