Another rust combat

[proffighter]

Originally Posted by MikeD930

That's a bummer...at least you caught it.

Well almost impossible not to caught, but you are right. Found is found

[proffighter]

After reading and thinking a lot about the cam tower and oil restriction I decided to reduce oil amount to the cam tower too. So I made a restrictor (shrink fit) into the adapter. 3.3mm as a compromise between the Porsche 2.5mm and the 4mm of the hole in the splash tube. So half the cross section reduced compared to the usual dimensions.



BTW: While I am typing here, I watch "The Martian" What a cool movie!

[proffighter]

While still waiting for seals, I made a ARP look-a-like bolt as it was not in the kit (only studs there and none of this length) and I have some shims and nuts left. So I have the same still all around the case bolts.





It's the one at the lowest point of the case near transmission.

[Flieger]

I admire your perseverance with all these projects!

How are your plastic door handles holding up? I had forgotten you had made some and wasn't able to find any trigger-style plastic door handles so I made my own out of MJF nylon (3D printed). You can see layer lines on the inside but on the outside it's a more even pebble texture from the vapor finishing process. I do wonder how they will handle southern California heat and sunlight but there's only one way to find out. They save about 275g each. Without the lock cylinder they weigh nothing. Some flex uninstalled but I think once installed they will be fine.

[proffighter]

Originally Posted by Flieger

I admire your perseverance with all these projects!

How are your plastic door handles holding up? I had forgotten you had made some and wasn't able to find any trigger-style plastic door handles so I made my own out of MJF nylon (3D printed). You can see layer lines on the inside but on the outside it's a more even pebble texture from the vapor finishing process. I do wonder how they will handle southern California heat and sunlight but there's only one way to find out. They save about 275g each. Without the lock cylinder they weigh nothing. Some flex uninstalled but I think once installed they will be fine.

Well I did not made them myself but a nice guy here made them as a prototype for me. Unfortunately as you may know, I did not drove the car at all since. so nothing I can say about durability or so. Only that they fit nice and yes, they flex a bit. Of course you cannot expect same lifespan than metal ones.

[proffighter]

I am going to Austria next weekend for snowboarding on the glacier as every year. Before I plan to prepare/finish the heads. What I wonder since decades is the fact, that almost everyone seems to recommend the procedure of mounting the heads as followed:

-Mount heads on engine, but not torque them already, only tight head nuts by hand
-Mount the cam towers and torque the heads to them
-Finally torque the heads

Why this? Some say things like to let the heads play/align to the cylinders, but that's nonsense to me. The Heads have 8mm H6 dowel pins, so there isn't anything to align. So why not mount the heads on the towers before and then mount the whole package on the engine? I mean there is no difference to an other engine with one cylinder bank and head (except possible difference in height, but that issue would be one anyway)

[proffighter]

Heads assembled using lot of new parts:

ZF-TWR valves
Eibach sport springs (slightly raised pressure)
Aasco Titan retainers
Wrightwood stem seals
Silverlake Titan exhaust studs, all others 8.8 steel

Valve guides replaced, Valve seats machined, cylinder sealing surface as well.
Valves set to 34.5mm inlet and 33.5mm outlet as I am using 964 cams

[proffighter]

Continued with cylinders. New Mahle's as old ones were just not good enough, most measurements near wear limit.




Next: Heads, camtowers with new bushings for rocker arms, shafts and all hardware including RSR seals. rocker arms polished as the where almost like new.




New chains, sprockets, guides mounted. 964 cams, timing set to 1.26mm.



RarlyL8 Headers are still state of the art, still love them

[proffighter]

I had to replace my fan shroud. Made it myself years ago, but was not happy with the fit. Had a unprecise negative form from a friend... Aftermarket ones are easy to get, but none of them inspire me, wrong color, wrong cout-outs for injector blocks, etc.. Finally I found out, that the stock 964 Turbo one is nice and very cheap, about 250 USD and it's a two piece item, so easy to access to wiring etc. behind fan, fit is excellent. Also I like the plain black finish. Spacers, selfmade sealings injector blocks and inlet manifold mounted (details about earlier in this thread and in my Another EFI conversion thread)



As some of you may remember i had problems to get the Blownsix IC under the wing... However result of that issue ist that I modified my throttlebody (cut-off about 5mm at the lower side, IC seat on top as well. As a result of my EFI conversion, the inlet manifold is also about 5mm lower. Therefore the trottle body does not fit anymore, not enough room because the new shroud seems to be a bit more voluminous. Also the 964 Turbo throttlebody is different, no port for distributor there. As I don't have a dizzy at all, I machined off that area and locked the boring:

[lite75]

Nice progress!

[proffighter]

Made a couple of things, but no pictures at the moment. Just one thing to show and tell:

As I replaced all steel fittings with aluminum ones, sensors with negative pole over housing miss now ground contact. To save somehow more parts and connections I replace the oil pressure sender and warning switch by combinated unit and added there the earth connection. Unit is Febi Bilstein, less than 20USD and it looks nice. I guess you can buy 5 or more of them for the price of a genuine one...



Another thing I cannot really understand: You can see on the pic the Plug on top of the turbo oil feed line. To have the possibility to mount an pressure gauge I left the port and bought a plug at Summit racing (I bought a couple of fittings there, no issues so far) and when I wanted to torque, no one of my allen keys fitted... WTF? I checked the Summit page: M10x1 metric plug.
So I expect the allen key is also metric... However I asked Summit customer support and they told me, that it's not said, that a metric plug needs metric keys...
Ok could make sense, but I think it's mandatory in my eyes to write that into the description... Luckily I found a key that worked, but still a bit annoyed, especially as I bought an M14x1.5 plug (same brand) from them a year ago and key was metric...

[proffighter]

I finally received the wanted fan housing strap from Ächtung Kraft (thanks for the 1st class customer service from Brian). To have a tighter seat with less flex, I first bent it where it has to for case:



It's made very well, flawless finish. Worth the price for sure

[proffighter]

Made some aluminum brackets earlier style with two M6 instead of one M8 which has the advantage that the clamping is nearer to the fan, less deformation. Also I could make it fit better. Further I changed measurements to get a smaller gap. Funny, without the intention to save weight (except the aluminum of course, the M6 as a little less weight than the M8 )

[chrisbalich]

I love it.
IDK if Bryan is subscribed to this thread, so I'm going to send this to him. Very cool that you modify everything to suit your taste!

[proffighter]

Because I did not liked the oil llnes (tubes) I made for the oil feed crankcase to cam towers, mainly the big bows top side, I decided to make an improved version, still using aluminum lines.
First I had to make som eadapters for the banjo to have them a bit away from cam towers, otherwise banjo would not fit. Inner and outer threads are M12x1. Also I made the inner diameter 3.3mm as reducer like seen earlier:






Because of the use of banjo instead of straight outlet at cam towers, I was able to rout the lines much closer tho the chain housings:

[proffighter]

After a break due to illness I continued with brackets for the 964 IC. This was a good reason to test my new profile bending apparatus.






anodized as usual




Decoupled from vibrations similar to OE using rubber grommets. Therefore I made some M8 special nuts out of M12 allen bolts to get the needed measurements.

[proffighter]

After saving the post, I realized that the nut is maybe not visible that good, so I here is a pic of it's "layout", i guess it's called sleeve nut:

[chrisbalich]

Roland, top notch work!
Care to share a pic of the new bending apparatus?

[proffighter]

Originally Posted by chrisbalich

Roland, top notch work!
Care to share a pic of the new bending apparatus?

Hello Chris

Here it is. Pic is not taken by me, but it's the one I bought on a local auction platform. I only had to add a long lever for easier bending and I bought some inserts with different radius' as 0° was to small for my 5mm profile (breaks or at least cracks)

[chrisbalich]

Very cool, Roland. Thank you.
I'm always looking to expand my tool collection and this looks much more precise than a press-brake or just jamming something in my vise.